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BULBS 



A TREATISE ON 






Hardy and Tender Bulbs 
and Tubers. 



BY 

EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, Jr., 

Author of " Flowers for the Parlor and Garden," " Garden Flowers," &c. 



BOSTON : 

J. E. TILTON AND COMPANY. 

1866. 

% 











Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by 

EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, Jr., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 

*»t. Offlo© Ufc, 

4wtl lou 



Stereotyped by C. J. Peters & Son, 

13 Washington St., Boston. 



Presswork by John Wilson & Son. 



i*> 



To 



Dr. William R. Lawrence, 



THIS VOLUME 



IS CORDIALLY INSCRIBED. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The plants of which the present volume treats are 
among the most beautiful in the floral kingdom. While 
comparatively few are indigenous to Northern climes, 
and many are natives of the torrid zone, most of 
them may be grown with but a slight outlay ; and the 
garden, frame, and greenhouse may be gay at every 
season of the year with their gorgeous blossoms. 

Many of them are also admirably suited for window- 
culture, and, though generally not ornamental in foli- 
age, flower freely in the parlor, and stand well the 
heat of furnaces, and the poisonous gas which impreg- 
nates the air wherever gas is used for lighting. Dur- 
ing their period of growth, which is the season at which 
they are generally in the parlor, they will bear any 
quantity of water ; and therefore one of the great 
mistakes in parlor-culture — over-watering — cannot 
be committed. 

Most of those ordinarily grown in the parlor bloom 

5 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

in winter, and, in summer, need only to be dried off 
in a cellar or on a closet-shelf. 

They are subject to few diseases, and insects seldom 
attack them. All these are great recommendations ; 
and when we add that the blossoms are not only very 
showy, but, in many species, also delightfully fra- 
grant, we have said enough to cause them to be gen- 
erally cultivated. 

In the garden, also, they play an important part ; 
beginning to bloom with the early snowdrop, which 
looks out with timid eyes upon the storms of Feb- 
ruary ; and ending only with the adventurous col- 
chicum, which, heedless of fading leaves and frowning 
skies, thrusts up its delicate blossoms of purple or 
white in the short November days, as if to bid a fare- 
well to the dying year. 

The culture of bulbs is yet in its infancy. As a 
class, these plants are every year attracting more 
attention ; and the time is not far distant when the 
skill of the hybridist and the researches of collect- 
ors will greatly increase our number of species and 
varieties. 

If we may take the hyacinth for an instance, where, 
from a single original species, all the numberless 
forms now in cultivation have been derived, or, what 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

are, perhaps, better examples, the amaryllis and 
gladiolus, where a few species have produced count- 
less varieties, most of which excel any of the parents 
in beauty, we see how wide a field is open ; while, 
at the same time, it is impossible to predict the result, 
or to imagine the improvements, which the future may 
witness, or the beauty which may be born under the 
skilful application of systematic culture. Perhaps 
the most remarkable discovery in this class of plants 
within the last few years is the golden-banded lily 
(Lilium auratum), the beauty of which it would be 
difficult to describe ; but we see no reason to doubt 
that future explorations may give us equally valuable 
additions, though perhaps not in the lily family. This 
same lily family offers a most tempting opportunity 
for hybridization, both from the facility with which 
it may be performed, and the beauty of the subjects ; 
and in this field we may hope for great results in the 
future. 

We must also bear in mind that many of the regions 
most prolific in bulbs are, as yet, imperfectly explored 
by botanists, and that scientific research may lead to 
great developments. 

South Africa has probably many valuable discov- 
eries yet to yield, and the rich fields of California and 



8 



INTRODUCTION. 



the Pacific coast are prolific of other treasures than 
golden ore. 

The want of a volume on this subject has long been 
felt by culturists. The elaborate work of Mrs. Lou- 
don was useful in its day, though wanting in practical 
directions ; but it has long been out of print, and its 
cost Avould render it inaccessible to the masses. 

The learned treatises of Herbert can never be 
excelled in elaboration of detail ; but they are too 
scientific for the popular mind, and only cover a small 
portion of the immeDse field upon which instruction 
is required. 

It is to meet this want that the present volume has 
been undertaken. Its aim is to give a book of popular 
culture, botanically correct as far as the science of 
botany is within its scope, but generally adapted to 
popular use, and intelligible to the large class who are 
ardent culturists, but have little time for the study of 
botany ; to make the culture of flowers a necessity, 
feeling that the inquiring mind will turn from the 
growing plant to study how it grows. 

This volume is the third of a series of works on 
popular gardening ; of which, two, " Flowers for the 
Parlor and Garden/' and " Garden Flowers," are al- 
ready before the public. A volume of " Orchid Culture " 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

is already in press ; and the other volumes on " Green- 
house Flowers," " Wild Flowers," and " Ferns, Lich- 
ens, and Mosses," are in preparation. 

The whole, when completed, will form a library of 
practical culture, which the author trusts may be the 
means of advancing the cause of floriculture, and 
prove a practical benefit to horticultural science. 

Many of the bulbs described as tender, and for 
which greenhouse treatment is directed, may prove 
hardy in the Middle States, and undoubtedly would 
in all States south of the latitude of Washington. 
The volume is written for the latitude of Massachu- 
setts, and due allowance must be made by readers 
living either North or South. As we have often had 
occasion to observe, the proper application of the 
word " hardy " is a source of great difficulty to the 
horticultural writer, as the hardiness of a plant is reg- 
ulated by so many circumstances other than mere 
temperature. In many cases, the fact can only be 
determined by experiment, and each must be his own 
judge. A volume can lay down only general rules, to 
which each reader may, perchance, find his own 
exceptions. 

There is no prettier culture than that of bulbs. To 
watch the foliage and flower gradually developing 



10 INTRODUCTION. 

from the bulb is pleasing and instructive, and can- 
not fail to direct the thinking mind to the Author of 
all, who, in so many diverse and yet ever-beautiful 
and wondrous ways, has caused the earth to bring 
forth abundantly all that can minister to the wants or 
the gratification of man. 

Glen Ridge, August, 18(56. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

What are Bulbs ? 17 



General Rules of Culture , 26 

III. 

Preparation op Soil. — Application of Manure .... 35 



IV. 

Bulb Cases. — Growth of Bulbs in Wardian Cases. — In Water. 
— In Vegetables. — In Moss. — In Sand. — Crocus-Pots . . 42 



V. 

Diseases and Insects. — Premature Flowering. — Tardy 
Flowering. — Red Spider. — Green-Fly. — Mealy Bug. — 

Scale. — Mildew. — Rot . . . 51 

11 



12 CONTENTS. 



VI. 

PAGE 

The Hyacinth. — Scilla^—Urginea. — Myogalum.— Narcissus . 64 



VII. 
The Snowdrop. — The Leucojum. — The Crocus .... 



VIII. 

The Tulip. — The Iris. — The Morea. — The Herbertia. — The 
Cypella.— The Phalocallis. — The Vieusseuxia . . . 109 



IX. 
The Ranunculus and the Anemone 132 



X. 

The Oxalis. — The Ixia. — The Babiana. — The Sparaxis. — The 
Tritonia. — The Geissorhiza * 141 



XI. 
The Lily 159 



XII. 

The Frittelaria. — The Ferraria. — The Allium. — The Orni- 
thogalum 1^0 



CONTENTS. 13 



XIII. 

PAGE 

The Gladiolus. — The Tigridia.— The Watsonia. — The Syn- 
notia. — The Anomatheca. — The Antholyza. — The Rigi- 

DELLA ... 



179 



XIV. 

The Amaryllis.— The Hippeastrum. — The Sprekelia.— The 
Vallota. — The Lyooris. — The Pyrolirion. — The Nerine. 
— The Zephyranthes 200 



XV. 

The Tuberose. — The Cyclamen. — The Dahlia. — The Comme- 
lina. — The Salvia. — The Asclepias. — The Apios . . .215 



XVI. 

The Erythronium. — The Bulbocodium. — The Colchicum. — The 
Eranthes. — The Trop^olum. — The Operanthus. — The Mus- 
cari. — The Lachenalia.— The Sternbergia .... 

XVII. 

The Arum. — The Calocasia. — The Erythrina. — The C anna. — 
The Dicentra. — The Sanguinaria. — The Kichardia. — The 

. 238 



230 



Trillium • • 

XVIII. 

The Caladium.— The Crinum. — The Clivea. — The Eucharis.— 
The Griffinia. — The Cyrtanthus. — The H^manthus. — The 
Brunsvigia.— The Eucomis 248 



14 CONTENTS. 



XIX. 

PAGE 

The Achimenes. — The Gloxinia. — The Gesnera . . ..259 



XX. 

The Pentlandia. — The Homeeia. — The Hexaglottis. — The 
Trichonema.— The Galaxia. — The Lapeykousia. — The Hes- 
perantha. — The Wachendorfia. — The Hypoxis. — The 
cooperia. — the haylockia. — the androcymbium. — the 
Blandfordia. — The Bravoa. — The Caloscordum. — The 
Milla. — The Elisena. — The Ismene. — The Pancratium.— 
The Carpodetes. — The Daubenya. — The Carpolysa. — The 
Habeanthus. — The Ixiolirion. — The Phycella. — The 
Ciiloretis. — The Strum aria. — The Coburgia. — The Gastro- 
nema.— The Chlidanthus. — The Urceolina. — The Steno- 
messon. — The Fourcroya. — The Eucrosia. — The Calos- 
temma. — The Eurycles. — The Gloriosa. — The Hydrot^enia. 

— The Hymenocallis. — The Gethyllis. — The Lidebouria. — 
The Veltheimia. — The Cyanella. — The RhinoPetalum. — 
The Libertia. ■— The Phjedranassa. — The Brodlea. — The 
Massonia. — The Puschkinia. — The Caliprora. — The Camas- 
si a . — The Melanthium. — The Montbrettia. — The Bessera. 

— The Nectaroscordum.— The Calochortus. — The Cyclo- 
bothra. — The Plantia. — The Leucocoryne. — The Belle- 
valia. — The Albuca. — The Gagea.— The Barnardia. — The 
Hesperascordium. — The Drimea. — The Eeiospermum. — The 
Spatalanthus. — The Conanthera.— The Cummingia. — The 
Uropetalon. — The Streptanthera. — The Tritelia . . 267 



INDZX 293 



BULBS. 



I. 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 




OTANICALLY speaking, a bulb is an 
underground stem, and, though generally- 
considered a root, partakes more of the na- 
ture of a seed. 

Strictly, there are but three kinds of 
bulbs, — the coated, such as the hyacinth and 
onion, where the scales are large, and, fold- 
ing around each other, form the bulb ; the scaly, of which 
the lily is the familiar example, which consist of narrow, 
fleshy scales, united at the base ; and the solid bulbs, or 
corms, such as the gladiolus and crocus, which consist of a 
solid, white, farinaceous mass, and which, perhaps, may be 
considered as a sort of rounded tuber. 

In popular parlance, however, almost any solid, under- 
ground stem is called a bulb ; and under this name are 
included many true tubers, which, in reality, possess little 
of the bulbous nature. 

2 17 



18 WHAT AEE BULBS? 

A familiar example of this is the well-known tuberose 
(Polianthes tuberosa), called a tuberose from its tuberous 
root, and not, as commonly conceived, from being a "rose 
with a tube," and a true tuber, but which is usually consid- 
ered a bulb. 

As we have said, the bulb partakes more of the nature 
of a seed ; that is, when planted, it sends forth roots into 
the earth, and an ascending shoot to the upper air, as a seed 
does in vegetation ; and, as in the case of a seed, the young 
plant is nourished by the starchy matter contained in the 
bulb, in the same manner as by that stored in the seed. 
The seed, however, having given birth to the plant, wastes 
away, and is lost ; but the bulb, to all appearance, re- 
mains the same. This latter is, in truth, not the case. 
Each year, the old tissue of the bulb is consumed by the 
plant, and replaced by new, though often in such a way 
that it is imperceptible to the careless eye. 

A seed also sends up a stem which produces leaves and 
branches, or rather buds, which become developed as such ; 
but a bulb only sends up leaves and a flower-stem. There 
are, however, some bulbs which produce little bulbs, or 
bulblets, in the axils of the leaves. 

The primary use of the bulb is to store up nourishment 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 19 

for the development of the leaves and flowers. The period 
required to perfect this process, or, in gardeners' language, 
to make the bulb " strong enough to bloom," is widely 
different in different species, and even varies much in the 
same species, according to mode of growth and favorable 
or unfavorable circumstances. 

Some bulbs and tubers require years before a sufficient 
stock of feculent matter is accumulated : others in a few 
months gain strength enough to nourish the flower. The 
mode by which this store is laid up is by no means different 
from that by which all plants assimilate to their own sup- 
port the elements of earth, air, and water. It is effected by 
means of the roots and leaves, or foliage, and only differs 
in the place of deposit. 

In all bulbs, tubers, and fleshy root-stalks, this nutriment 
is laid up in the earth, and the leaves mostly die annually, 
or take a season of rest : and hence we see the pertinence 
and force of the old gardener's adage, " Fine flowers, large 
leaves ; " as, without a full development of foliage, it is use- 
less to expect a perfection of bloom. Were the leaves of a 
bulb to be cut off as fast as they appear, the bulb would 
perish : therefore, if we would allow them their full action 
for the perfection of the bulb, they should never be cut off 



20 WHAT ARE BULBS? 

until they begin to turn brown and wither, which is a sure 
sign the circulation of the sap has ceased ; and then they 
will readily come away from the bulb. 

As our present treatise is for popular gardening, we shall 
include under the general name of bulbs many true tubers, 
to which the general rules of bulb-culture are applicable. 
All bulbs require a season of rest : this takes place after 
the plant has produced its bloom, stored up the nourishment 
for the growth of the coming year, and ripened its seed. 
The foliage turns yellow, and falls off (except in the case of 
evergreen bulbs, which preserve them green, but without 
growth) ; and the bulb, save its fresh, plump appearance, 
preserves no sign of vitality. This season of rest varies 
greatly in time and duration ; in some being very short, in 
others very long. In some, we can change it indefinitely ; 
as gardeners say, the bulb " forces well," that is, may be 
forced into bloom at any season : while others " force 
badly ; " that is, can only be had in perfection at certain 
seasons. 

Bulbs which flower in early spring, such as crocus, 
Persian iris, frittelaria, snowdrop, tulip, and hyacinth, 
rest from June or July until October, when their roots 
begin to grow ; but the leaves do not appear until the next 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 21 

spring. Lilies go to rest immediately after flowering, and 
seldom grow until late in the spring, except the white lily 
(L. candidum) and its varieties, which make their growth 
in the autumn preparatory to blooming in early summer. 
Of this same nature are the many varieties of polyanthus 
narcissus, and iris Susiana, one of the most beautiful of 
the family, which in New England almost always make a 
fall growth, and, unless very well protected, has the young 
growth killed by the winter, and the bulb perishes. 

Some bulbs, of which the colchicum is the best example, 
bloom late in the autumn, and perfect their growth of 
foliage and the seed the following spring. In some, as with 
the well-known Jacobean lily (Sprehelia formosissima) and 
Belladonna lily {Amaryllis Belladonna), the flower-stalk 
springs from the naked bulb, and the growth of leaves 
follows ; while in others — as, for example, the tall white 
star of Bethlehem {Omithogalum pyramidale) — the flower- 
stalk pushes up after the foliage has decayed. 

In many bulbs, as the hyacinth and narcissus, the flower- 
stalk springs from the centre of the crown of leaves, on a 
separate stalk ; in others, as in some amaryllis, it is pro- 
duced from the side of the bulb, and the leaves from the 
top : and these two modes of growth sometimes occur in the 
same family. 



22 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 



The flower may also be upon the same stalk with the 
foliage, as in the well-known crown imperial {Frittelaria 
imperialis) and many other well-known bulbs. In fact, 
these peculiarities are infinite ; and it is to these little differ- 
ences that we owe much of the pleasure we derive in the 
culture of flowers. A new interest is constantly upspringing 
in the mind ; and the love of Nature insensibly intwines 
around the soul, until it becomes a part of our nature. 

As we have seen that each bulb has its season of rest, it 
would follow that all bulbs should, during that season, have 
nothing to excite their dormant powers and to urge them to 
growth. With most bulbs, this is afforded by taking them 
out of the earth, and preserving them in a perfectly dry 
place, or with many bulbs grown in pots by withholding 
water, and a drying them off." 

Bulbs which preserve an evergreen foliage are, of course, 
never wholly " dried off ; " but water is given very sparingly, 
and only enough to keep the leaves from fading and the 
bulbs from shrivelling. 

Care must always be taken, in drying off bulbs, not to 
dry them up, as thus many small bulbs perish. The bulbs 
must be kept fresh and plump, but not excited to growth. 
The degree of dryness each species or variety will bear is 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 23 

best learned by experience ; but an attempt will be made to 
give the rules for each case, under its appropriate head, in 
the following pages. 

Some hardy bulbs do better if taken from the ground as 
soon as they have matured their growth, and wrapped in 
dry paper, and thus kept until the season for replanting : 
this, indeed, is the general practice abroad with " Holland 
bulbs." Others, again, do far better if left in the ground 
undisturbed for years. Bulbs grown in water (if desirable 
to preserve them) should be planted in soil as soon as the 
bloom fades ; as, otherwise, the store of nourishment is 
exhausted, no new nutriment is laid up, and the bulb 
consequently perishes, or does not bloom again for years. 
We have said that the old bulb is consumed each year, and 
a new bulb formed. This is done in many ways. Some- 
times it is formed in the centre of the bulb, as in the 
hyacinth ; sometimes it appears on the side, as in the tulip ; 
sometimes on top, as in the crocus and gladiolus ; and 
sometimes on the bottom, as in the bulbous iris. 

Thus the crocus grows out of the ground each year, the iris 
buries itself, and the tulips move away from their original 
position. Many fleshy root-stalks also move ; the new bud 
being produced beyond the old one, and sometimes several 



24 WHAT ARE BULBS? , 

inches distant. This is an additional reason for occasion- 
ally taking up all bulbs, as many are annually lost from a 
want of this simple precaution. Another reason is, that 
the bulb, if left in the ground, is often too early stimulated 
into growth. If, however, we do not care for the finest 
bloom, but are content with a good display, all common 
hardy bulbs may be left in the ground undisturbed for three 
or four years, if once carefully planted. 

Bulbs are propagated by offsets, or small bulbs, which 
are produced at the base of the root, or parent bulbs, 
and in the axils of the leaves, and occasionally as flower- 
buds, and which soon produce flowering plants. They are 
also raised from seed, which, however, seldom produces a 
flowering plant in less than three years. The scaly bulbs 
may be propagated by planting the scales in sand ; each 
scale, in time, producing a new bulb. Hyacinths, gladiolus, 
and some other bulbs, are occasionally increased by cutting 
the old bulb into pieces ; each portion being forced to put 
forth a new shoot and roots. The two former methods are 
those used by N.ature : the latter we owe to the skill of the 
gardener. 

All bulbs are monocotyledons or endogens : that is, the 
embryo, or cotyledon, has but one leaf, and the leaves are 



WHAT ARE BULBS? 25 

almost always parallel-veined, without any, or very slight, 
ramifications ; while those of dycotyledonous plants, or 
plants having two seed-leaves, are strongly reticulated. 

As a class, bulbs are most interesting, whether we regard 
the facility with which they can be cultivated, or the variety, 
profusion, and brilliancy of their flowers. A bulb-bed can 
be gay every month, from early April to November ; and 
the brilliancy of their bloom is unrivalled in the floral king- 
dom. Their name is Legion, and many of the rarer species 
are no less curious than beautiful. Their greenhouse and 
parlor culture is very simple, and the flower well repays 
the necessary care. 

A bulb-case in a south window, and a bulb-bed under it, 
will give us flowers from January to December, as we 
begin the year with fragrant hyacinths, and enjoy, in turn, 
the ever-welcome snowdrop, the gay crocus, the delicate 
iris, the modest erythronium, the gaudy tulip, scented hya- 
cinths, brilliant narcissus, stately lilies, gladiolus, tigridias, 
and tardy colchicum, till the double Roman narcissus once 
again bids us a merry Christmas and a happy New Year. 



II. 



GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 




S we have seen that the bulb is renewed 
yearly, it follows that the chief end of cul- 
ture should be to facilitate this renewal, 
especially if we wish the plant to grow 
stronger year by year, or to increase by 
offsets. 

In ordinary house-culture, this end is 
entirely lost sight of. The bulb is grown for the flower, 
which, being already formed when the bulb is planted, is 
only developed and brought to perfection. When the 
flower has faded, the bulb is cast aside, and no further care 
is given ; and as a natural consequence, even if the bulb 
survives until another season, the flower (if it bloom at all) 
is poor, weak, and worthless. 

The primary rule in bulb-culture is, grow the foliage well. 
The stronger and more vigorous the leaves are, the stronger 
will be the bulb, and, consequently, the larger and finer 

26 



GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 27 

the bloom. Neglect of this first rule is the cause of most 
failures. To bloom the bulbs well the first year is easy : 
you have only to develop what another has prepared : the 
success can hardly be called your own. But if, the second 
year, you can produce as fine, or even finer flowers, you 
may well claim to possess skill in bulb-culture. 

While, however, we may not care to take the trouble to 
grow our bulbs well, so as to produce finer bloom year by 
year, it may be well to know how to do it. The present 
great mart for the more common bulbs is Holland, where 
bulb-culture is the business of many principal horticul- 
turists, by whom the foreign market is supplied. This 
business has been carried on so extensively for many years, 
that certain exotic bulbs, such as tulips, hyacinths, and 
crocus, are generally known as " Dutch or Holland bulbs." 
These bulbs are raised in such quantities, and are so cheap, 
that, in this country, it is easier to import bulbs than to 
raise them : so that the bulbs which have flowered in the 
winter are usually thrown aAvay, or planted in some corner 
of the garden, where they come up, and bloom year after 
year, and occasionally produce fine flowers. 

The rarer bulbs are more cared for, as they are much 
more difficult to procure, and far more expensive. The 



28 GENEEAL RULES OF CULTURE. 

same general rules of culture, however, apply to both, 
whether they are hardy or tender. 

Imported bulbs are often weak from being kept a long 
time out of the ground : this is especially the case with 
lilies and erythroniums, of which a large proportion never 
survive the first winter : crocus and hyacinths, being of a 
different nature, are seldom injured. The bulbs should be 
planted at once in proper soil, according to the species : 
if out of doors, in a well-drained bed ; if in doors, in well- 
drained pots. There are few bulbs which need a wet situ- 
ation, and all are impatient of standing water : therefore, 
to secure good drainage is one of the points of primary 
importance in bulb-culture. Hardy bulbs may be planted 
as late as the ground keeps open ; and we have often set 
them out when it was necessary to take off a thick crust of 
frozen earth before we found ground soft enough to work. 
In one instance, a lot of hyacinths and crocus, received 
very late, were planted in the frozen ground (the holes being 
made with a crowbar) , and the next spring showed a fine lot 
of flowers, but little later than, or inferior to, those planted 
earlier. It should, however, be stated, that the winter was 
most favorable to the winter-growth of the bulbs ; the earth 
being covered with snow, and the frost never penetrating to 



GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 29 

any great depth : had the winter been " open," all the bulbs 
would have perished. As a general rule, the bulbs should 
be planted in October, that the roots may make a good 
growth before the cold weather sets in. 

The mode of planting must vary according to various 
tastes ; but generally the bulbs should be so grouped as 
to give the most effect when in blossom. Thus snow- 
drops, crocus, erythroniums, Persian iris, and other small 
bulbs, should never be planted singly, but always in clumps, 
the larger the better ; the single bulbs about an inch apart 
every way, or in triple lines as an edging to a bed. 
Hyacinths, narcissus, and other large bulbs, may be planted 
singly or in lines, but are far more effective planted in 
threes ; that is, one at each point of a triangle, each bulb 
about nine inches from the others. A combination of colors 
may often thus be very prettily contrived. 

The bulbs should never be mixed. Let each kind be 
planted in masses by itself, if the full effect of each be 
'desired. We have often seen a mixture of crocus and 
snowdrops by which the snowdrops were entirely lost, 
their simple beauty being wholly neutralized by the more 
gaudy colors of the crocus. Hyacinths and narcissus do 
not accord well together, nor do jonquils and frittelarias 



30 GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 

(F. meleagris). Crown imperials (Frittelaria imperialis) 
should stand by themselves in clumps : if planted in 
mixture with smaller bulbs, they cause them to appear 
insignificant by their stately growth. 

In arrangement, again, the smaller bulbs should be 
planted in the foreground, the taller growers behind : thus 
each, when in bloom, appears to the best advantage. 

Much may be effected by a tasteful arrangement of 
colors : clumps of white, blue, yellow, and purple crocus, 
planted alternately with broad belts of snowdrops, are very 
showy. 

As a general rule, stakes marked with the names of 
varieties are unsightly, as too conspicuous. Most bulbs are 
low growers ; and while it may be interesting to know the 
name of a showy variety, yet to have it forced upon the 
attention by a painted stake robs the flower of much of its 
effect. Where care has been taken in the selection of 
varieties (and named varieties are always the best, and 
give more satisfaction), it is well to preserve the names; 
which may very easily be done by having a plan of the 
bulb bed drawn on a sheet of paper, and the proper position 
of each species and variety indicated by a figure refer- 
ring to an index of names. In planting in the open ground, 



GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 31 

the general rule is that the crown of the bulb should be 
placed an inch below the surface : if in a situation, how- 
ever, where the bulbs would be liable to be thrown out 
by the frost, an inch and a half will not be too deep. 
The larger the bulb, the deeper it should be planted ; 
and all lilies and crown imperials should be set three 
inches below the surface, and even deeper if the bulbs are 
very large. Crocus should be set deeper than bulbs of 
the same size, as their tendency is to grow out of the 
ground ; and iris rather higher, as they naturally bury 
themselves : this upon the supposition that the bulbs are 
not to be taken up annually. The bulb bed may be made 
more effective if gently sloped from the back to the front : 
if under a window, slope it toward the path ; but the 
inclination should always be to the south, as thus, in winter, 
it receives more sun, and the flowers bloom earlier in the 
spring. There is often a difference of three weeks in the 
blooming of bulbs planted at the same time under a south 
and west window, the difference being in favor of the 
former. If the house is stone or brick, or has a stone un- 
der-pinning, it is a good plan to have a narrow border dug 
close to the house. Fill this with snowdrops and yellow 
cloth-of-gold crocus, or the pretty little striped Scotch 



32 GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 

crocus : the former, in a favorable season, will bloom in 
February ; and the latter, very early in March. 

The bulbs being planted (say about the middle of Octo- 
ber), there is nothing more to be done until the ground 
begins to freeze. But the bulbs are by no means idle : 
no sooner are they planted than they begin to grow. A 
crocus or hyacinth will in a few days throw out a root 
an inch long, if in a moist soil ; the shoot also begins to 
protrude, and in a few weeks the plant is fairly established. 
As soon as the ground begins to freeze at night, the bed 
should be covered with three or four inches of coarse 
litter, which will prevent the earth from freezing very 
deep, and thus allow the roots to grow all winter. Unless 
the cold is very severe, the plants will continue to push ; 
and, when the covering is removed, — which it should be 
about the middle of March, or when the snowdrops push 
up through the litter, — the bulbs will be found to have 
made sprouts an inch or more in length. These, of course, 
will be yellow, from not having been exposed to the light ; 
but they will soon turn green. As soon as the flowers 
have faded, all seed-vessels should be removed, unless it 
is desirable to raise seedlings ; as the ripening of seed 
weakens the bulb. If the spring is very dry, the bed should 



GENERAL RULES OP CULTURE. 33 

be occasionally watered, to prevent the premature ripening 
of the foliage, and to encourage its growth. 

As soon as the leaves have faded, they should be removed ; 
and the bulbs should rest (if not taken up) until they 
naturally begin to grow again. Showy annuals (such as 
portulaca) planted through the bed will cover all bare 
places during the summer, and do not send their roots 
deep enough to injure the bulbs. As soon as the frost has 
killed these, the bed should be cleared, carefully forked 
(except where the bulbs are), and a coating of fine manure 
supplied. It is a good plan to apply weak liquid manure ; 
and an addition of powdered charcoal to the soil of the 
bed will give additional brilliancy to the flowers. 

Powdered bone or horn-scrapings are also excellent ma- 
nures. 

The culture of tender bulbs is, in a measure, similar 
to that of the hardy species. Potted in well-drained pots, 
they should be gently watered, and kept in a warm, shady 
place, till they begin to grow ; then water should be more 
freely given, and they should be placed in full sunlight, 
and as near the glass as possible, to encourage a thick, 
sturdy growth. 

When in bloom, they should be kept cool, that the dura- 
tion of the flower may be prolonged. 
3 



34 



GENERAL RULES OF CULTURE. 



During growth, copious syringing should be given, to 
destroy the red spider, the great enemy of greenhouse bulbs. 




They should not be allowed to ripen seed. After bloom- 
ing, the leaves should be grown until the tips begin to 
turn yellow ; when water should be less freely administered, 
and the plants be gradually dried off. When thus at rest, 
the pots should be turned on their sides, placed on shelves 
under the greenhouse stage, or in a shed or cellar, and so 
remain until the season for repotting. Bulbs with ever- 
green foliage should never be entirely dried of; but the 
supply of water should be greatly reduced until the plants 
again show signs of growth. 




S a general rule, a soil with a proportion 
of sand is best suited to the growth of bulbs. 
Some even thrive in pure sand ; and there 
are very few which will succeed in heavy, 
close, clayey, or peaty soil. 

This fact must be borne in mind in the culture of all bulbs. 
Many require a rich soil, and some will bear manuring ; 
but even these need light soil and well-rotted manures. 
A good compost for the growth of common bulbs is one 
part clean sand, one part leaf-mould or rich garden-loam, 
and one part well-rotted cow-dung. A good substitute for 
this latter is the bottom of an old hot-bed ; but it should be 
very well rotted, so that its component parts cannot be dis- 
tinguished, and such as will fall away like loam. 

35 



36 PREPARATION OF SOIL, 

In the preparation of beds for hardy bulbs, the following 
directions may be given : — 

SITUATION. 

This should always be sunny ; though, except for early- 
blooming species, it need not face the south. There are, in 
all the numerous family of bulbs, very few species that 
delight in shade. Many of our best-known bulbs are 
natives of countries where the sun is far hotter than in our 
own ; where the year is divided into but two seasons, — the 
rainy and the dry, — during the former of which the growth 
is perfected, and, after blooming, the plant rests in a state 
of perfect inactivity till called into growth again by the 
return of the wet season, or, in some cases, sending up its 
flower-stem, then followed by the growth. In this latter 
case, however, the bulb is at rest ; the bloom being perfected 
during growth, and only developed at a later period. 

In the culture of bulbs, as well as in all other culture, 
we must, by every means in our power, approximate to the 
natural conditions of growth ; and, the nearer we attain this 
end, the more perfect will be our success. Thus it follows, 
that, while a bulb-bed should have plenty of sun, it should 
not be so dry that a good supply of moisture cannot be 



AND APPLICATION OF MANURE. 37 

obtained during the growing season. These two conditions 
we can seldom find ; and, even if we could, few soils are 
rich enough for bulb-culture without further preparation : 
and therefore, having selected a sunny exposure, where no 
large trees may, by their branches, shade the bed, or, by 
their roots, rob it of its richness, our next step is the 

PREPARATION OF THE BED. 

The bed should be at least thirty inches deep, of good 
bulb-soil ; and must be well drained. As few situations 
naturally fulfil these conditions, excavation is necessary. 
First, throw off all the black loam in piles at the side, and 
then cart away all yellow loam, sand, or gravel, to the 
required depth. If the subsoil is gravel, the bed is ready 
for filling ; letting the bottom, however, slope gently from 
back to front, the front of the bed being the point of obser- 
vation, or that from which it is seen to best advantage 
when in bloom. If, however, we have a stiff clay subsoil, 
or any that will retain water, it will be necessary to go 
from six to nine inches deeper for drainage. 

This space should be filled with small stones, laid to a 
blind drain at the lowest part, to carry off all superfluous 
water. The loam that was removed from the surface may 



38 PREPARATION OF SOIL, 

then be filled in, provided it does not more than half fill the 
bed ; and the bed should then be filled up, some four inches 
above the former level, with prepared soil, of equal parts 
of loam, or leaf-mould, clean sand, and well-rotted cow- 
manure, or old hot-bed. A few days should be allowed 
before planting, that the soil may settle. It is always well 
to have the surface of the bed an inch or more above the 
surrounding soil ; and the surface should slope gently from 
the centre to the sides, or from the rear to the front. 

A most excellent compost for bulbs, especially for ranun- 
culus and anemones, is made by taking the turfs of an 
old pasture, making a heap of them, and letting them rot 
for two or three years, turning them occasionally to pick 
out any insects or hard foreign bodies. 

The sand used should be clean and fine, or, as gardeners 
say, " sharp ; " free fom all stones or earthy matter, and 
fresh. If sea-sand is used, it should be well washed, to 
take out the salt : there are but very few bulbs that flourish 
in a soil containing salt. 

POTTING. 

In planting bulbs in pots, the same primary rules of 
drainage should be observed. This is effected by filling the 



AND APPLICATION OF MANURE. 39 

pots with about an inch of broken potsherds, or " crocks," 
and then filling up with prepared soil. Small bits of char- 
coal, about the size of a hazel-nut, make a very good drain- 
age, and contribute to heighten the brilliancy of the flowers. 

The chief care in the growth of bulbs in pots is to pre- 
vent the soil from becoming sodden through imperfect 
drainage, or too dry from want of sufficient water, during 
the season of growth. 

It must be borne in mind that the vigorous growth, once 
begun, should never cease until the season of rest arrives ; 
and any check received from neglect in watering, greatly 
injures the bulb. 

MANURES. 

All manures should be well decomposed, or "rotted." 
Fresh or very strong manures are injurious. 

Cow-clung is the principal manure used ; but this should 
always be a year old, and never be hot. 

Horse-dung should never be used, unless perfectly de- 
composed, and deprived of all heating principle. 

Any manure should be clean, or "very fine;" that is, 
free from worms and slugs, and with no admixture of straw 



40 PREPARATION OF SOIL, 

or stubble. It should be in such a condition as to be 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil. 

In the formation of a bulb-bed, it should be well manured, 
and will not generally require further manuring, except the 
autumn top-dressing, for several years. If, however, it 
becomes poor, liquid manure may be advantageously ad- 
ministered. This should be made by mixing cow-dung and 
rain-water ; and it should be applied at night, over the sur- 
face of the bed, from the fine rose of a water-pot, when 
the plants are not in bloom and in growth. Weak guano- 
water may also be of service, but should be used with 
caution. Powdered charcoal may be mixed with the soil 
with advantage to the flowers. Ground bone is an excellent 
manure for a bed of hyacinths. Horn-scrapings, or piths, 
answer the same purpose. 

Bulbs grown in pots need no manure if the soil has been 
properly prepared. Waterings of weak manure-water may, 
however, be given where a weak growth seems to require it. 

Bulbs grown in water are greatly improved by the addi- 
tion of a few drops of aqua ammonia to the water each 
time it is changed. 

In potting hyacinths and tuberoses, after the drainage, 
it is our practice to fill in between one and two inches of 



AND APPLICATION OF MANURE. 41 

dried cow-droppings, collected from the pastures, and which 
have been exposed to the weather during the winter. 
These are crumbled up and pressed down, and the pot 
then filled with prepared soil. In watering, this mass of 
manure becomes soft <; and when the young root of the bulb, 
pushing through the soil, comes in contact with it, the 
effects are at once evident in the growth of the plant. By 
this means, we have obtained remarkably fine spikes of 
bloom. 

These remarks must be understood as applying to plants 
which are true bulbs, and as not being without exception. 
A bed for gladiolus is best prepared by plentifully manur- 
ing with stable-manure, digging it in about November, and 
planting the bulbs in early spring. Many lilies are rather 
gross feeders, and will bear any manure which is not 
heating. Tubers, or creeping root-stocks, such as dahlias, 
cannas, and German iris, delight in a strong, rich, well- 
manured soil, and do not thrive in sandy loam : but gener- 
ally sandy loam is best suited to bulbs ; and, where they are 
planted in a stiff soil, it is best to fill a handful of sand in 
the hole made for the bulb, to prevent its rotting in winter 
from too much dampness. 




IV. 

bulb cases; growth in water, moss, and sand. 

NE of the most satisfactory modes of grow- 
ing bulbs in the house is in a bulb case. 
By this very simple contrivance, all the 
objections to plants in pots are obviated, 
and the plants thrive much better. 

The bulb case is a simple oblong table, 
as long as the window, where you wish to 
grow the bulbs, is wide, and wide enough to accommodate 
three medium-sized pots in each cross-row. A very good 
size is four and a half feet in length by two feet in width 
in the clear, so as to hold three rows of eight pots each. 
Let the table be hollow, and eight to ten inches deep, all 
thoroughly joined together, and well coated with white lead 
on the inside, particularly around the joints. Into this table 
fit a zinc pan of the same depth, with wire handles which 
turn down inside at each end. The prettiest style of table 
for a parlor is of oiled black walnut, with turned legs, pan- 

42 



bulb cases; 43 

elled sides, and as high as the sill of the window. It should 
be fitted with strong castors, that it may run easily, and 
be turned if the plants grow one-sided. If any other 
form is employed, — and we give only the above form and 
dimensions as being those most simply made, — the only 
care is to see that it is so proportioned that there is no 
waste room on the inside ; that is, that it may accommodate 
a certain number of pots without small bare places. 

If the table is made circular, the whole top may turn 
on a pivot. After the bulbs are potted in October, they 
should be put in a dark cellar, and moderately watered 
for three weeks, to encourage the growth of the roots. 
"When the pots are filled with roots, or when they touch 
the sides of the pot (which may easily be ascertained 
by inverting the pot, giving the edge a sharp rap, when 
the ball will come out entire, may be examined, and may 
then be replaced in the pot without injury to the plant), 
the pots may be brought from the cellar, and placed in 
the bulb case. Fill the case with pots, and fill common 
moss obtained in the woods, or sphagnum from the 
meadows, into all the interstices, and as high as the 
top of the pots ; then cover all the pots about half an 
inch with the rich green moss which may be found on 



44 GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND. 

shady rocks in oak woods. The shoots of the bulbs will 
soon push through the moss if the table is placed in a 
sunny window ; and, if the moss is kept well watered, we 
shall have a bed of hyacinths in a garden of moss. 

Of course, with such constant watering, much water will 
accumulate in the bottom of the pan : but this will produce 
no bad effects ; the roots of the plants in time running 
through the holes in the bottom of the pots, and luxuriating 
in the wet moss. The plants placed in the case early in 
November will bloom about Christmas. As soon as the 
bloom fades, the pots should be taken from the case, placed 
in a light cellar, watered to encourage the growth of the 
foliage, and their places supplied with other pots brought 
from the cellar. As the plants will not all bloom at once, 
the case will always, by thus renewing, have plants in 
bloom from Christmas to April. 

To maintain this succession, a stock of from seventy- 
five to one hundred bulbs should be potted ; and some atten- 
tion should be paid to the period of flowering, as some 
varieties bloom very early, and others always bloom late 
and cannot be forced. The early-blooming varieties should 
be brought forward in early winter, while the later should be 
left in the cellar till February. 



BULB CASES ; 45 

The stock of bulbs may all be potted at the same time, 
or at intervals of a month. Care must be taken not to 
over-water them while in the cellar, as too much moisture 
causes rot both of roots and tops. The larger bulbs 
should be planted one in a pot ; but of smaller, such as 
crocus, tulips, and jonquils, three may be placed in the 
same pot. 

A number of double Roman narcissus should always be 
potted for very early blooming : these will be out of 
bloom by the middle of January, and may be replaced by 
Polyanthus narcissus Gloriosa (one of the earliest and 
best) ; and these in turn by the stronger and later varieties, 
of which Grand Primo and Grand Monarque are the best. 
The narcissus, being of tall habit, should be placed in the 
middle of the case. 

The accompanying plates may give a good idea of the 
bulb case before it is filled and after the plants are in 
bloom. 

The great advantage of growing plants in cases is, that 
all spilling of water or overflowing of saucers, and all risk 
of overturning or breaking the pots, is avoided ; and thus 
plants may be grown in the parlor without " making dirt." 



46 



GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND. 




IN GLASS CASES. 

Bulbs are sometimes grown in close glass or Wardian 
cases. 

The treatment is very simple ; being merely to plant the 
bulb in the soil, and to give air enough to prevent rot or 
mould. 

We have, however, found that, in every case, the leaves 
become tall or " drawn," and the flowers were lacking in 
brilliancy. 



IN WATER. 



This popular mode of growing bulbs seldom gives very 
fine flowers ; but its simplicity and pretty effect will always 



bulb cases; 



47 




recommend it. The bulb should be placed in the glass in 
November ; the glass being filled with rain-water up to the 
neck, so that the base of the bulb may just touch it. Place 
the glasses in a warm, dark place, keeping them filled with 
water, for three weeks, or until the glass is half filled with 
roots ; then remove to the light, and gradually to full 
sunlight. 

After blooming, if it is desirable to preserve the bulb, it 
should be taken from the glass, and planted in earth, to 
strengthen it. 

The water in the glasses should be changed every week, 
or as often as it becomes cloudy (a bit of charcoal in the 
water will, however, keep it sweet and clear) ; and, in 



48 



GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND. 



renewing the water, care must be taken that that supplied 
be of the same temperature as that taken away. 

There are many forms and colors of glasses : those of 
dark glass are best for the bulbs. 

The accompanying figure shows some of the many attrac- 
tive forms : — 




The bulbs usually grown in glasses are hyacinths : but 
we occasionally see English iris, tulips, and narcissus, 
which make a pretty show ; the treatment required for them 
being the same as for the hyacinth. 

A few drops of glue or ammonia, added to the water in 
which bulbs are grown, increases the brilliancy of the 
flower, and strengthens the bulb. 



bulb cases; 49 

IN VEGETABLES. 

Hyacinths are sometimes grown in a carrot or turnip, 
hollowed out, and filled with water. The bulb grows well ; 
and a growth of young foliage springs from the top of this 
novel flower-vase, and entirely conceals the bulb. In this 
way, many pretty effects may be produced. The treatment 
is the same required by bulbs in glasses. 

IN MOSS. 

Pots or glasses may be filled with moss, and bulbs grow 
very prettily therein. The treatment is the same as that 
required by bulbs in earth. A very pretty way is to make 
a ball of moss, fill it with bulbs, wire it round, and hang it 
in a warm, light place ; occasionally turning it to make an 
even growth, and dipping it in water when it gets dry. 
The shoots of the bulbs will cover the moss, and the roots 
will run through the inside. The Jacobean lily (Sprekelia, 
or Amaryllis formosissimus) , grown in this way, blooms 
beautifully, and is a fine summer ornament. 



50 GROWTH IN WATER, MOSS, AND SAND. 

IN SAND. 

This mode is popular, as sand is cleaner than earth, aDd 
the contrast of the white sand and green leaves is very 
pleasing. The only care necessary is to see that the sand 
contains no salt, and that it never becomes dry. The other 
treatment is the same required by bulbs grown in earth. 

CROCUS-POTS. 

Crocus are often grown in fancy china-pots, represent- 
ing porcupines. They are planted so that the leaves may 
represent the quills of the animal. The pots may be filled 
with earth, moss, or sand, and treated as directed for bulbs 
thus grown. The great difficulty is to produce an even 
growth, the effect generally being a porcupine with quills 
in a very dilapidated condition ; and therefore this mode 
of growth is not now as popular as formerly. 



V. 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 




ISEASES are not of fre- 
quent occurrence in bulb 
culture, if proper attention 
is paid to the preparation 

of soil, and the application of water ; and bulbs are subject 

to the attacks of few insects, if reasonable care is taken. 

The principal are red spider, green-fly, mealy bug, black, 

brown, and white scale, mildew and rot. 



PREMATURE FLOWERING. 



Premature flowering — that is, the flowers of such bulbs 
as hyacinths expanding without pushing up a flower-stalk — 
is not strictly a disease, but is caused by improper culture. 
This not unfrequently occurs when the bulbs are exposed 

51 



52 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

to light and heat soon after planting, and before they have 
had time to put forth roots. As there are no roots to draw 
nourishment from the earth, the bulb is thrown upon its 
own resources, and the leaves and flower are produced at 
the expense of the nutriment already laid up in the scales 
of the bulb. There is no power Or strength to throw up a 
foot-stalk, and the flowers half expand down in the bulb. 
Often, in such cases, we find, in the course of time, the 
withered flowers elevated on a long foot-stalk ; showing that, 
as soon as sufficient roots were matured, the bulb did all 
that was necessary to produce a fine flower. 

This same premature flowering sometimes occurs, even 
where there are plenty of roots, if the room where the plants 
are grown is subject to great variations of temperature. 
Where this is the case, the simple remedy of a more 
equable temperature, and more air, will produce satisfac- 
tory results. 

It sometimes happens that a bulb will develop flowers 
on a short foot-stalk, in spite of every care. This may be 
the effect of too much direct sun and heat, or may be a 
defect in the bulb. An easy course of treatment is to make 
a cylinder of card-board, stiff brown paper, or some other 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 53 

opaque substance, just large enough to fit over the shoot 
of the bulb, and about eight inches long. Fit this over the 
bulb, and it will cause the leaves and flower-stalks to grow 
out of it to reach the light. As soon as both are sufficiently 
long, the case may be removed. 

TARDY FLOWERING. 

This often occurs from want of sufficient light or heat. 
In the former case, the leaves and flower-stem become drawn 
and white, and the flowers are pale : in the latter, the plant 
is somewhat stunted ; and the flowers die without expanding, 
or are destitute of color. If the flower-stem is gone, the 
only treatment is to grow the plant well, that the foliage 
may mature a good bulb for another year, by giving plenty 
of light and heat. If, however, the flower-buds have not 
withered, the buds will, by removing the plant to a warm, 
sunny situation, gain color, and give good bloom. 

It is worthy of remark, that neither premature nor tardy 
flowering occurs in open-air culture, but only attack house- 
grown bulbs. The inference is obvious that they are 
caused by our treatment not supplying some requisite of 
growth which Nature affords. 



54 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

RED SPIDER. 

Some bulbs are especially liable to the attacks of this 
pest of greenhouse culture. Those with soft leaves, such as 
hyacinths and narcissus, are not generally troubled ; but 
those with stiff, gladiate foliage, as most of the Cape bulbs, 
seldom escape. 

It will be noticed that this is usually a trouble in parlor 
or greenhouse culture, out-door bulbs being seldom attacked. 
The presence of the spider is easily known by the foliage 
of the infested plants assuming a rough, scaly, reddish- 
brown or white appearance ; or, in severe cases, being 
covered with minute, hardly visible cobwebs, and inhabited 
with myriads of small red spiders. 

An examination of any foliage so infested, under a 
microscope, shows a network of web covering the whole 
leaf, and the presence of multitudes of insects, and this 
even before the effect of their presence is perceived by the 
naked eye. 

These spiders feed upon the juices of the plant, and, by 
sucking all life from the foliage, weaken, and eventually 
destroy, the bulb. They also invest the scaly covering 
and skin of those bulbs (such as amaryllis) which require 
to be planted one-half above the surface of the ground. 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 55 

Heat and drought are favorable to their growth and 
development ; and they are most abundant in the warmest 
and sunniest parts of the greenhouse, such as the top 
shelves near the glass, where Cape bulbs are usually 
grown to prevent them from becoming drawn. 

The remedy is copious syringing, whenever the plants 
are not in full sunshine. If the foliage can be kept moist 
for a while, it is certain death to the spider. 

This is the reason for the constant syringing of foliage 
required in the culture of Cape bulbs, as, without great care, 
they are sure to be attacked by spider. In this the old 
maxim, " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of 
cure," well applies ; for if the red spider once establishes 
himself, and browns the leaves, the beauty of the plant is 
gone for the season. 

While red spider is peculiarly a subject of in-door culture, 
it sometimes, in times of drought, becomes formidable in 
the garden. During the last two summers of extreme 
drought (1864 and 1865), it has been very common on 
gladiolus as well as on many garden-plants ; but, though 
always to be found on garden-plants in summer, it seldom 
produces any perceptibly injurious effects. 



56 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

Where the spider is very plenty, a little flower of sulphur 
may be dusted over the foliage to advantage. 

A good preventive is to place a pan upon the flue of the 
greenhouse, fill it with water, and dust into it a few hand- 
fuls of flower of sulphur : the fumes arising from this when 
the water becomes heated are death to the spider. Care 
must be taken not to allow these fumes to rise upon very 
delicate plants, as they are sometimes injurious. 

The common remedy of putting sulphur on the flue 
should be used with great caution, as, though sure death to 
the spider, it often kills the plants, or causes them to lose 
their leaves. 

In house-culture, the simplest remedy for spider is syrin- 
ging, or, where this cannot be done, frequent sponging of 
the foliage with pure water, or sulphur and water. 

GREEN-FLY. 

The green aphis, or fly, so common in greenhouses, is 
often found on the foliage of bulbs. 

The easiest and best remedy is a gentle fumigation of 
the greenhouse, or of the infected plant under a barrel, as 
in the ordinary treatment of house-plants for this pest. 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 57 - 

The insects are stupefied by the smoke, fall from the foli- 
age, and are easily washed away by a subsequent syringing. 
This latter is important, as the tobacco seldom kills, but 
only stupefies, the fly ; and if not washed off, and drowned 
by the water, the insects crawl up on to the foliage again, 
and the labor is lost. It is also useful to wash off any 
which may still cling to the leaves. 

MEALY BUG. 

This enemy is much more difficult to conquer than the 
two preceding, as no general application will be effective. 
Fortunately, bulbs are but little infested. The remedy is to 
pick or wash off the insects by a careful sponging of the 
foliage. A touch of kerosene oil, applied to the bug with a 
very fine camel's-hair pencil, is instant death, and not injuri- 
ous to the plant. 

Where these insects infest the scales or skin of green- 
house bulbs, as is not uncommon, they are with difficulty 
extirpated. The treatment is to peel off so much of the old 
skin as can be done without injury, and then carefully 
remove all bugs that can be seen, and repeat the process as 
often as any bugs can be found. 



58 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

BLACK, BROWN, AND WHITE SCALE. 

Bulbs that make an annual growth are seldom troubled 
by these insects ; but they are not uncommon on those with 
evergreen foliage. 

The simple treatment of washing the foliage and leaf- 
stalks of the infested plants with a sponge dipped in weak 
warm soapsuds will be found effectual in all cases. 

House-bulbs are seldom liable to be attacked by these 
insects. 

MILDEW 

Sometimes attacks soft-foliaged bulbs, but is easily re- 
moved by a sprinkling of flower of sulphur over the 
diseased part, or by putting sulphur on the flue of the house 
in a pan of water, as previously directed. It is caused by 
too much moisture, and is especially prevalent in damp 
warm weather. 

ROT. 

This disease attacks the bulb, and is not susceptible of 
curative treatment. When a bulb is attacked by wet or 
dry rot, if it has not progressed too far, or is not in the 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 59 

core or heart of the bulb, cutting away the affected parts 
with a sharp knife will sometimes save the bulb ; other- 
wise a diseased bulb should never be planted, as it may 
infect others. 

Gladiolus are subject to a peculiar form of rot. The 
surface of the bulb is covered with black specks, which 
spread all over it, and finally dry up and kill the bulb. 
Such bulbs should not be thrown away (especially if of 
valuable varieties) , as they sometimes recover ; but should 
be planted by themselves, that they may not infect sound 
bulbs. We have noticed that bulbs in heavy soils were 
more subject to this disease than those in soil of a light, 
sandy nature ; and also that old bulbs are much more likely 
to be affected than young ones. 

A remedy, or rather preventive, may be to put a little 
sand in the hole in planting the bulb, and to raise seedlings 
instead of planting old varieties ; the latter to be especially 
recommended, as our American seedlings are better than 
imported varieties. 

In the attention paid to the culture of the hyacinth in 
Holland, several diseases have developed themselves, which 
are best described in an article translated from the Dutch 
for "The Gardener's Magazine," from which we give the 
following extracts : — 



60 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

" The hyacinth is liable to seven diseases : first, the 
white rotz ; second, the black rotz ; third, the rot ; fourth, 
mould ; fifth, consumption, or wasting ; sixth, shrinking ; 
seventh, excess of offsets. 

" First, The white rotz is known by a resin, which gen- 
erally oozes from the upper part of the bulb, and also from 
the side, about October ; and is of a hard consistency, not 
unlike the resin that flows from trees. The white rotz also 
assumes the appearance of a white, slimy substance, and 
has a very unpleasant smell, which is particularly evident 
when the bulb is cut open ; and bulbs in this state should 
be thrown away without hesitation. The rotz has been 
assumed to be incurable, and bulbs so affected are generally 
thrown away : they should never be planted, as they infect 
the ground to such a degree, that sound bulbs, planted in 
the ground as late as three years after, become infected. 
Where the diseased bulb is very valuable, if it is placed in 
a place where snails abound, they will eat out the diseased 
part, and the bulb often recovers and grows. 

" Second, The black rotz is more difficult to know than 
the white rotz, because, as soon as the bulb is taken out of 
the ground and kept dry, the rotz dries up also. The stool, 
or plate, of the bulb, — that is, the point from which the 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 61 

roots proceed, — appears as if eaten out on the side ; and the 
scales at that part have dry, black edges. When, therefore, 
there is but little of this disease in the bulb, it is very diffi- 
cult to be ascertained ; and it must be particularly looked 
for when the bulbs are about to be put into the ground, as 
it will not only destroy the infected bulb, but all those that 
are healthy near it. A bulb so attacked, must, therefore, 
be thrown away. 

" Third, The rot is easily known when it is once fairly 
begun. It is generally found in the scales near the heart 
of the bulb ; and, to discover it, the point of the bulb should 
be cut off horizontally with a sharp knife. If the bulb is 
affected with this disease, a yellowish or brownish stripe 
will be seen between the scales, and all the part thus dis- 
colored should be cut away till it is completely eradicated ; 
but, when it reaches farther than half of the bulb, it is past 
remedy, and the bulb must be thrown away. Great care 
must, however, be taken, in cutting off the point of the bulb, 
not to injure the germ which has formed inside of it ; and, 
when this is likely to be the case, the cuts should be made, 
not horizontally, but in a slanting direction, towards the 
point of the bulb, so as not to run any risk of cutting off 
the extremity of the incipient flower. 



62 DISEASES AND INSECTS. 

" It frequently happens that these stripes are but very 
little distinguished froni the color of the healthy part of the 
bulb ; and therefore great attention is necessary, that they 
may not be overlooked. When two, three, or more stripes 
are seen round the heart of the bulb, it is generally past 
recovery ; but if they are found far from the heart, and con- 
sequently near the outer scales, they can all be cut away, 
with the exception of such as have reached the root-plate 
and attacked it. Above all, care must be taken that neither 
the germ nor the root-plate of the bulb is injured ; but all 
parts round them may be cut away. 

" Fourth, The mould is found only on the outer or inner 
part of the first four scales : it is not considered a danger- 
ous disease, but must be removed by taking off those scales 
that are attacked. 

u Fifth, Consumption, or wasting, is indicated by never- 
varying yellowish or brownish spots in the scales near the 
heart. This disease is not a dangerous one, but is rather 
an indication of a weak flower, and is very common with 
several varieties. These spots may go through the whole 
bulb without being injurious : therefore they are not to be 
compared with the stripes of the rot. 

" Sixth, Shrinking is indicated by spots similar to those 



DISEASES AND INSECTS. 63 

above mentioned, only they are much larger. This disease 
generally draws the whole bulb in a slanting direction, and 
a part of it appears as if eaten out. The bulb loses its 
usual round form. This is similar to the disease called 
wasting, but in a greater degree, and is with great difficulty 
removed. It is better to throw away all bulbs attacked 
with this disease. 

" Seventh, Excess of offsets takes place only in bulbs 
capable of producing flowers. The offsets come out at the 
sides or through the stool or plate, and the parent bulb 
becomes divided into a number of young ones. 

" When this is the case, it is left exactly as it is, and 
planted like the others ; and, although the bulb will not 
flower, it will produce a great many young bulbs. 

4 ' Bulbs which have been cut to eradicate disease should 
be planted within thirty-six hours after, as a further delay 
may be conducive to the re-appearance of disease." 

Bulbs in the open air are subject to few enemies. Crocus 
are sometimes eaten by field-mice, and mice are also very 
fond of tiger-flowers ; but the depredations thus committed 
are few. 

Careful preparation of the bulb-bed, and proper planting, 
will almost always give a fine show of bulbs in the garden. 



VI. 



THE HYACINTH, SCILLA, UKGINEA, MYOGALUM, NAR- 
CISSUS. 

THE HYACINTH. 




HE many hundred varieties of hyacinth 
known to our gardens have all descended 
from one species, — H. orientalis ; which 
is found wild in Asia, near Aleppo and 
Bagdad. 

In its wild state, it is generally blue, 
sometimes pink, and, of course, single. It 
is mentioned by Gerard, and must have 
been introduced before 1596. Till the 
beginning of the present century, though there were many 
double varieties, the only colors known were white, blue, 
and pink : the straw or lemon colored varieties were then 
produced from seed ; and, at the present day, there is 
scarcely any shade of any color which has not been pro- 
duced in the hyacinth. 

64 



THE HYACINTH. 6£> 

The soil suitable for the hyacinth is a light, friable, 
sandy loam, from which all stones, sticks, and other coarse 
material, have been removed. The soil should be coarse 
enough to pass through an inch sieve ; and should never be 
very fine, nor yet of a coarse, tenacious nature. 

To such a soil, a liberal quantity of well-rotted cow-dung, 
free from straw and coarse material, should be added ; and 
a few bushels of clean soot, if for a very large bed. 

This latter will act as a manure and improve the flower, 
and also drive away any noxious grubs and worms. The 
compost should be well mixed, and the parts thoroughly 
incorporated. If, when prepared, it is so close as to cling 
together when pressed, a few bushels of clean fresh sand 
may be advantageously added. 

This compost is all that is required for the growth of the 
hyacinth, both in pots or in the garden. 

SELECTION OF BULBS. 

The bulbs should be clean, roundish, hard, and heavy. 
Those bulbs presenting a surface of scales should not be 
chosen, as they seldom give good bloom ; but those having 
the surface covered with a thin, clean skin, should be 
selected. 5 



C6 THE HYACINTH. 

Size is no criterion ; for some varieties always produce 
large bulbs, and others are usually small. Round, medium- 
sized, plump bulbs, the base or root-stool flat, hard, free 
from mould or decay, and not sunk, and the top formed of 
small, closely-fitted scales, with perhaps a stout, strong 
shoot just pushing, will give the best flower : those having 
a hollow apex should be avoided. 

Large, light, scaly bulbs seldom produce close, compact 
spikes of bloom, though often throwing a fine mass of 
foliage, and giving several loose spikes of bloom. Double- 
crowned bulbs, though usually producing two spikes of 
bloom, are not desirable, as the flowers are generally infe- 
rior in size. 

Bulbs should be selected as soon as imported : the expo- 
sure to the air, and the handling they undergo in a florist's 
shop, do not tend to improve them. If the bulbs are not to 
be planted immediately, they should be kept in a cool, dry 
place, laid singly, or wrapped in thin paper, and as nearly 
as possible in a state of perfect rest. If kept too moist, the 
roots are excited to growth ; and if too hot, the tops sprout. 
If by .chance the roots have started, the bulbs should at 
once be planted. The single varieties produce the finest 
spikes and more flowers ; the double, the finest single 



THE HYACINTH. 67 

blooms. Double varieties are not fitted for growing in 
water or for very early forcing ; and generally, for growing 
in the house, the single varieties are to be preferred. 

PLANTING IN BEDS. 

Hyacinths are most effective in the garden ; and, the beds 
having been prepared of a proper compost, the bulbs may 
be planted in October. 

Varieties should not be mixed, as they vary greatly in 
height, general habit, and time of blooming, so that a mix- 
ture is sure to produce a bad effect. Therefore, whether 
they be planted in lines or clumps, let each line or clump 
be of one variety, and, of course, of one color. 

The bulbs should be planted three or four inches deep, 
according to the size ; the larger being planted deeper, and 
about six inches apart, in lines or double lines; a foot 
beino- allowed between each line, and six inches between 
each double line. ■ A very pretty way is to fill the bed with 
triangles of three bulbs of the same color, taking care to 
let the colors of the different triangles contrast well, and 
not to plant two triangles of the same color together ; the 
two bulbs at the base of each triangle being nine inches 



68 THE HYACINTH. 

from that at the apex, and the same distance from each 
other, and a foot being allowed between each triangle. 

Hyacinths should always be planted in dry weather ; and 
if set in common garden-soil, in which they sometimes do 
well, a little clean sand should be placed round each bulb 
to prevent rot. The bed should be covered with leaves or 
litter as soon as the frost sets in, and remain covered till 
the bulbs push in spring. 

A writer in " The Cottage Gardener" gives the following 
directions for the preparation of a common bulb-bed, which 
will serve for those who have not time for more thorough 
preparation : — 

" When the beds [of the garden] are cleared of their 
summer occupants, it is time to prepare them for planting 
bulbs, to bloom in April, May, and the beginning of June. 
Nothing is better than deep digging, or trenching, placing 
at the bottom of each bed six inches of fresh or recently 
fallen tree-leaves, which should be covered with a foot of 
soil ; and they will serve to raise the beds considerably, and 
allow water to drain away freely. In the course of a year, 
the leaves will be pretty well decomposed ; and, on digging 
in the succeeding autumn, they will be brought to the sur- 
face, and thus the soil will be enriched by a not over-stimu- 



THE HYACINTH. 69 

lating manure. Fresh leaves being put in every autumu, 
the beds annually receive a dressing of vegetable matter, 
which saves dung, and, in dry summers especially, the roots 
[of bedding-plants] lay hold of the decomposing leaves 
when the plants are becoming exhausted by blooming. 
The beds should slope from the centre to the sides ; and the 
borders, from the back to the front." 

PLANTING IN WATER. 

As we have said, the single varieties are preferable for 
forcing in water, sand, or moss. The heaviest bulbs, with 
no offsets, or marks of imperfection or decay at the base, 
should be chosen. They should be placed in the glasses 
about the first of November ; the glasses being filled with 
rain or river water, and the base of the bulb just touching 
the water. They should then be placed in a dark place 
where the temperature does not exceed 50°, and remain 
about a month, or until the roots are three or four inches 
in length. They may then be brought out to the light, and 
gradually inured to full sunshine. As the water evapo- 
rates, it must be supplied, and must be changed as often as 
it becomes discolored or impure ; or it may be kept sweet 



70 THE HYACINTH. 

by the addition of a small bit of charcoal. The plants 
should be kept at an even temperature, and the foliage 
washed occasionally if it becomes dusty ; and the glass 
should be frequently turned, that the plants may not become 
one-sided. 

A few drops of hartshorn added to the water are bene- 
ficial to the bloom ; and We have given liquid manure, say 
ten drops, twice a week, with good results. After bloom- 
ing, the bulbs should be placed in earth to mature their 
foliage. Hyacinths grown in water will not bloom the 
next year, but will the third season if grown in soil. 

IN MOSS OR SAND. 

Hyacinths grow well in moss or sand, and latterly have 
been most successfully grown in England in cocoanut 
refuse. The vessel, or pot, should have about half an 
inch of pounded charcoal placed at the bottom : on this the 
moss or sand should be placed, and the bulbs planted up to 
the apex. Place the whole in a dark place, as directed for 
bulbs in water, previously giving a good watering ; and, 
when brought to the light, plant little sprigs of Lycopodium 
denticulatum between the bulbs, or cover the surface with 



THE HYACINTH. 71 

green moss from the woods. The plants will need to be 
kept moist, and the leaves must be sponged to keep them 
clean. Hyacinths may also be grown in turnips or carrots, 
hollowed out as directed in a preceding chapter, and pro- 
duce a pretty effect. 

IN POTS. 

As a general rule, a hyacinth should not be grown in a 
pot less than twice the diameter of the bulb ; and, where 
more than one bulb is grown in a pot, the distance between 
each bulb should be equal to the diameter of the largest. 

For single bulbs, pots six inches in diameter are suffi- 
cient ; but, when they can be procured (and any potter 
can easily make them), we prefer a bulb-pot four inches 
wide, and from eight to ten deep, which gives better room 
for the development of the roots. Three hyacinths in a 
pot look very well, and the same objections to combination 
of color do not exist in house as in garden planting. A 
very pretty effect is produced by a red, white, and blue 
hyacinth in the same pot. 

The pots being prepared by placing a crock on the hole 
in the bottom of each, and the bulbs being ready, the offsets 



72 THE HYACINTH. 

and all loose scales having been removed, we proceed to 
pot the bulbs ; the time being from the first of September to 
the middle of November, according to the time at which we 
wish them to bloom. Often, however, it is best to make 
several plantings, at periods of from two to four weeks, to 
secure a succession of bloom. And, first, place about half 
an inch or more of dried cow-dung, such as may be picked 
up in the pastures, crumbled fine, and free from wire- 
worms or grubs, at the bottom of the pot ; then fill in 
with the prepared compost, placing the bulb so that its 
apex is just above the surface of the soil, and the soil about 
half an inch from the top of the pot at the side, and sloping 
from the bulb. G-ive a good watering from the fine rose 
of a watering-pot, and set the pots in a sheltered place, on 
a bed of coal-ashes, if out doors or in a cellar. The ashes 
will prevent earth-worms from entering the pots. The 
object now is to promote the growth of roots before the 
shoot develops, which is effected by " plunging " the pots, 
or by putting them in a dark frame. By the former 
method, the pots are placed close together, and covered 
with from four to eight inches of coal-ashes, tan, or any 
material of similar nature ; and thus they are to remain 
until the roots touch the sides of the pot, when they, or as 



THE HYACINTH. 73 

many as are needed to bring in, are taken out, and gradu- 
ally inured to the light. 

This same object is as well gained, however, by placing 
the pots in a cool cellar, or in a cold frame darkened. 

Hyacinths thus plunged in coal-ashes can be safely kept 
all winter, and be taken out and forced into bloom in 
early spring, as they are not injured by frost. They need, 
however, to be protected from soaking rains. 

Where hyacinths are required for bloom in early winter, 
they require to be forced. For this purpose, about the 1st 
of October, they are taken from the frame, and placed in a 
gentle hot-bed made of horse-dung, and remain there till 
the pots are full of roots, and the tops begin to start, which 
will be in about a fortnight : they are then taken to the 
greenhouse, and gradually forced into bloom by gradually 
increasing the temperature, giving them plenty of air, keep- 
ing them near the glass, and keeping the soil moist, but not 
wet. They should have all the sun that can be given. The 
temperature at its extreme should range from 55° to 70° ; 
and care must be taken that the plants experience no sud- 
den check. 

By bringing in successive lots of hyacinths, a succession 
of bloom may be had from Christmas to May Day. If the 



74 THE HYACINTH. 

grower has no greenhouse, he may grow the bulbs in a 
parlor ; keeping them in the cellar until he wishes to bring 
them forward, or in a cold frame as above directed. 

As a general rule, hyacinths potted in September will 
bloom in December ; those potted in October and Novem- 
ber, in January, February, and March : but these seasons 
may be greatly varied by forcing and retarding. 

When coming into bloom, hyacinths should be watered 
with weak liquid manure, unless potted with cow-dung as 
before directed, in which case they will not need it. 

We copy from an English work the following rules of 
hyacinth-growing, and which apply well to all Dutch bulbs. 
The essentials to success in growing hyacinths are, — 

" First, Placing the bulbs in a cool situation until the 
pots are filled with roots. 

" Second, Keeping them near the glass ; for, the more 
light, the greater is the elaboration of the food and the more 
stiff is the foliage, the more compactly are the bulbs 
arranged, the stouter the stalk that supports them, and the 
brighter the color of the flowers. 

" Third, The size of the flowers, and the shortness, or 
rather stiffness, of the spike, depend upon their having 
plenty of air on all favorable occasions. 



THE HYACINTH. 75 

" Fourth, That they have no more heat than is necessary 
to maintain the plant in a healthy growing state ; for, the 
more naturally a plant is excited, the more satisfactory are 
the results. 

"Fifth, A free, open soil, with plenty of vegetable 
matter. 

" Sixth, Perfect drainage, and being kept free from 
worms. 

" Seventh, A moist soil at all times, neither too wet nor 
too dry; but double the quantity of moisture may be 
afforded when the truss is nearly developed, every alternate 
watering being with weak liquid manure, at the tempera- 
ture of the house or room. 

" Eighth, When in bloom, their beauty will last much 
longer if they are kept in an almost invariable temperature 
of 40° to 45°, instead of a variable one ; but they must 
be fully in flower, or the colors will not be so bright nor the 
flowers so fine without a sufficiency of light and heat. 

" Ninth, The hyacinth will bloom much more satisfacto- 
rily in a house from which frost is only excluded than in 
one where fire-heat is employed." 

In selecting hyacinths for early blooming, some regard 
must be paid to the variety, as some are always early, some 



76 THE HYACINTH. 

always late bloomers ; and it is as useless to attempt to 
obtain a Christmas bloom from a late-blooming variety as 
to obtain a satisfactory March bloom from a bulb which 
naturally blooms early. 

After blooming, water should be gradually withheld from 
the plants until the foliage turns yellow, when watering 
should be wholly discontinued, and the bulb allowed to rest. 

Miniature hyacinths, now so popular, are only matured 
small roots of named hyacinths, which bloom finely for their 
size, and are well adapted for parlor culture. 

PROPAGATION. 

Hyacinths are propagated by offsets, by cross-cuts, by 
hollowing, and by seed. 

By Offsets. — The little bulbs, or offsets, should not be 
pulled off of the parent bulb, but all should be planted 
together ; and, when the offsets have produced a stool or 
root-base, they may be removed, and treated like old bulbs. 

By Cross-cuts. — Choose the strongest and healthiest 
bulbs, and make four cross-cuts in the root-end half-way up 
the bulb. This should be done when the bulb is taken up 
in June. It should then be treated like the other bulbs ; 



THE HYACINTH. 77 

and the same autumn the cross-cuts will open pretty wide, 
and send out young bulbs at the cut scales. They must be 
planted in this state by themselves, and, the next year, are 
separated and trimmed. While they are increasing in size, 
very little foliage, or none at all, appears on the surface of 
the beds 7 as the old bulb has no longer any influence, and 
the young ones only exert their strength towards their own 
increase. 

By Hollowing. — This is usually done in August, if the 
weather is dry. The manner is as follows : Place the 
thumb on the root-end of the bulb, and cut round it with a 
sharp knife, hollowing out the plate, or root-end, as far as 
the middle of the bulb ; and, when the knife has passed in a 
circular direction round the bulb, be careful to take it out 
again where the incision began ; or rather so make the cut, 
that the plate, extending half-way into the bulb, may fall 
out of itself. As this operation causes a great deal of moist- 
ure to flow from the bulb, and there is danger of rot, it 
should not be undertaken in moist weather. The hollowed- 
out part of the bulb should not be touched, but be placed on 
dry sand on a board, and turned to the sun. After lying 
some time, the heart, which extends as far as the point of 
the bulb, and which was not removed when the bulb was 



78 THE HYACINTH. 

hollowed out, becomes detached by the heat of the sun, and 
may be removed. After being properly dried, the bulbs are 
planted as other bulbs. 

When the operation proves successful, a great many 
young bulbs are obtained ; but it generally takes four or five 
years to bring them to perfection, while those obtained by 
cross-cuts mature in three years. Like those obtained from 
cross-cuts, they produce no leaves the first year. 

By Seed. — Many varieties of hyacinth ripen seed freely, 
which may be sown in pans of prepared soil when ripe, and 
nursed in a cold frame till the seedlings are large enough 
to be planted out in beds. Seedlings bloom the third or 
fourth year. By the three former operations, approved 
varieties are perpetuated ; by the latter, new varieties pro- 
duced. 

Of other species of hyacinth, there is H. amethystinus, a 
charming little plant, with blue bells, a native of Spain, 
introduced in 1759, but very rare, and probably not hardy ; 
and H. sjpicatus, an insignificant plant, with white-and-blue 
flowers, a native of Greece, and not hardy, introduced in 
1835, flowering in February. 

The following list of fine hyacinths is compiled from the 
best English authority. Those marked with a star, and all 



THE HYACINTH. 



79 



the single varieties, are best for early forcing, and culture 
in water. 




DOUBLE BLUE. 



Laurens Koster. Indigo ; bells large, closely arranged. 

Van Speyk. Light blue, striped with deep blue ; fine 
spike, large bells. 

*Paarlboot. Bright pearly blue ; fine bells, and spike. 

Pasquin. Pale blue ; fine spike, large bells. 

* Conite de St. Priest. Light blue ; fine bells, large 
spike. 

Bloksberg. Fine marbled blue ; large bells. 

Garrick. Intense deep blue ; good spike, with large 
bells, closely arranged. 

Rudolphus. Sky-blue ; good truss. 



80 THE HYACINTH. 

Prince Frederick. Porcelain-blue, or lilac-shaded ; large 
bells. 

Sir Colin Campbell. Light-shaded blue ; immense bells ; 
fine spike. 

Bouquet Constant. Porcelain-blue ; good bells and 
spike. 

Othello. Very dark ; small spike, but large bells. 

. 

DOUBLE RED. 

* Duke of "Wellington. Pale rose ; large bells, good 
spike. 

Jenny Lind. Deep rose ; good bells, and spike. 
Milton. . Fine deep red ; large bells, good spike. 
Czar Nicholas. Rose ; good spike, fine bells. 

* Waterloo. Pink at first, changing to deep red ; fine 
spike, and bells. 

Noble par Merite. Hose ; striped carmine, large spike, 
immense bells. . 

G-root Voorst. Pale rose ; fine bells. 

* Princess Royal. Fine rose, striped with deep pink ; 
fine bells, good spike. 

Kohinoor. Salmon ; fine bells and spike, perfect form. 

* Bouquet Royale. Deep rose, with pink eye. 



THE HYACINTH. 81 

Regina Victoria. Rosy pink ; fine large spike. 
Susannah Maria. Salmon-rose ; fine spike. 

DOUBLE WHITE. 

* La Tour d'Auvergne. Pure white ; large spike. 
Ne Plus Ultra. Large bells, and spike. 

* Prince of Waterloo. Very fine ; large bells, and spike. 
Sir Bulwer Lytton. White, purple eye ;■ large spike, and 

enormous bells. 

Anna Maria. Blush, with pink eye. 
Sceptre d'Or. Pure white. 
La Vestale. Beautiful white ; good spike. 
Don G-ratuit. Large bells ; good spike. 
Triomphe Blandina. Blush ; deep-pink eye. 
La Deesse. Fine spike ; medium bells. 

SINGLE RED. 

Josephine. Brilliant vermilion ; the best red ; good 
spike, and bells. 

Cavaignac. Salmon ; deep rose, stripes. 
Howard. Orange-crimson. 



82 THE HYACINTH. 

Circe. Pink, striped with carmine. 
Madam Hodgson. Pale pink ; very fine spike. 
Pelissier. Scarlet ; immense spike. 
Sultan's Favorite. Pale rose ; pink stripes. 
Lady Sale. Deep red, suffused with purple ; light eye. 
Victoria Alexandrina. Intense crimson ; large bells t 
fine spike. 

Queen Victoria. Pale pink ; bright-red stripes. 

Von Schiller. Salmon-pink ; very fine. 

Florence Nightingale. Pale pink ; carmine stripes. 



SINGLE BLUE. 

Bleu Aimable. Violet ; shaded blue, fine. 
Argus. Blue, white eye ; tube indigo blue. 
Charles Dickens. Gray ; shaded blue. 
Leonidas. Clear blue ; fine. 
Regulus. Pale blue ; fine bells. 
Madame Coste. Deep blue ; fine spike. 
Grand Lilas. Azure-blue. 
Thorwaldsen. Marbled blue ; immense bells. 
Porcelain Sceptre. Porcelain-blue ; deep shaded. 
Nimrod. Light blue ; fine spike, good bells. 



THE HYACINTH. 83 

SINGLE WHITE. 

Queen of the Netherlands. Fine white. 

Madame van de Hoop. Fine bells, and spike. 

Snowball. Pure white ; fine bells, and spike. 

Paix de l'Europe. Pure white ; small bells, but fine. 

Fair Maid of Denmark. Splendid white ; fine bells. 

Alba Maxima. Pure white ; large bells, and spike. 

Victoria Regina. Fine white ; very good. 

Miss Burdett Coutts. Creamy blush ; very fine. 

Gigantea. Blush ; fine spike. 

Lady Franklin. Blush ; immense spike. 

Grande Blanche Imperiale. Blush ; rose stripes. 

Seraphine. Blush ; immense spike. 

Elfrida. Creamy blush ; large bells. 

SINGLE BLACK. 

Gen. Havelock. Purple, changing to black. 
Prince Albert. Fine bells on large spike. 
La Nuit. Deep purple black ; fine. 
Von Humboldt. Purplish black ; white eye. 
Lamplighter. Purplish black, with white eye* 



84 THE HYACINTH. 

SINGLE YELLOW. 

Ida. Fine yellow. 

San Francisco. Deep yellow. 

Victor Hugo. Fine bells, and spike. 

Due de Malakoff. Straw-color, with a stripe of lake on 
each segment. 

Aurora. Straw-color ; the tube splashed with pink, the 
segments with pink of a deeper hue on stripes. 

Koning van Holland. Creamy yellow, shaded with 
reddish orange. 

All these single varieties force well, and will do well in 
water. Perhaps the earliest hyacinth is L'Ami du Coeur, 
single red. 

THE PROPERTIES OF A GOOD HYACINTH, AS A FLORIST 
FLOWER, ARE, 

1. Each pip, or flower, should be round, and not ragged. 

2. The petals should be broad, thick, blunt at the ends, 
not pointed, and reflexed enough to throw up the centre 
well. 



THE HYACINTH. 85 

3. The foot-stalk should be strong, and hold the flower out 
stiff in a vertical position, that is, facing the spectator ; and 
by no means weak, to allow the pip to hang with the face 
sloping towards the ground. The foot-stalks should also be 
of a length to make the pips touch each other, and no more. 

4. The pips should be large : for, unless the pips be large, 
they cannot touch each other without very short foot-stalks ; 
and the flowers would be so close to the stem, that the truss 
itself would be no size. 

5. Double flowers should have the rows of petals above 
each other very regularly imbricated, so as to throw up the 
centre. 

6. The outer petals, therefore, of a double flower, need 
not reflex, and should not reflex, so much as a single one, 
because the centre is raised by the second and third rows 
of petals. 

7. The spike should be bold, round, compact, and pyram- 
idal, with a number of flowers at the bottom, gradually 
diminishing to a single flower at the top. 

8. The flower-stem should be very strong and upright ; 
and no part of it should be seen from the lowest flowers to 
the top, in consequence of the closeness of the pips to each 
other. 

9. The colors should be bright, clear, and dense, what- 



86 



THE SCILLA. 



ever the shade ; and any better approach to scarlet, blue, or 
yellow, than those shades we now possess, would be highly 
esteemed : flowers with dark eyes, very clear outsides, and 
those with striped petals, would be held to be better than 
selfs in general, but would give no point against form. 

THE SCILLA. 

This is a lovely genus of small bulbs, with blue, white, 
or pink flowers. They are mostly very early flowering, 
and are very effective as borders for bulb-beds or in masses. 

The prevailing color is blue. The flowers are produced in 
spikes, composed of from six to twelve pendent bells. The 
bulbs are generally hardy enough to endure the winter with 
the protection usually given to a bulb-bed, and require no 
further treatment than to be planted from one to two inches 
deep in October or November, in a rather light soil : that 
usually prepared for bulbs suits them well. When once 
planted, they should not be disturbed oftener than is 
required for division. 

As the individual bulbs are small, they should always be 
grown in masses, or in double or triple lines, as otherwise 
they are not effective. Each species should also be planted 
by itself. 



THE SCILLA. 87 

Scilla Siberica is one of the most beautiful ; and no 
word can convey an idea of the brilliant blue of the blos- 
soms. 

Scillas are well adapted for growth in pots, in earth or 
sand, and only require to be planted in November, kept in 
a dark, cool place until they have made plenty of roots, 
and then gradually inured to light and heat. They look 
better in pans than in pots ; and the bulbs should be planted 
about an inch deep, and about the same distance from each 
other every way. 

The principal varieties are 

Scilla Siberica. — This species is one of the hardiest 
and best. As its name implies, it is a native of Siberia. 
The flowers are brilliant, intense blue, and produced, one to 
four, on a short spike. 

Scilla precox. — This species has flowers of the same 
brilliant blue color as the last. It is a native of Germany, 
and more tender than S. Siberica. It was introduced in 
1790, but is not common. 

Scilla cernua. — This species bears a great resem- 
blance to the English harebell (Hyacinthus, Scilla, or My- 
ogalum, non scriptus), but differs slightly botanically. It 
is a native of Spain, and has been long in cultivation. The 



88 THE SCILLA. 

flowers are drooping, pale pink, or purple. It requires 
winter protection in the Northern States. 

Scilla campanulata. — This is one of the finest species ; 
common and hardy, although a native of Spain. The 
plant is very floriferous and effective : the color is blue ; 
but there are pink and white varieties, of which the latter 
is the best white squill in cultivation. 

Scilla patula. — This species has dark-purple, pink, or 
white flowers, and greatly resembles 8, cernua, but, unlike 
it, has flowers all round the spike. It is a native of Spain, 
and is generally hardy. 

S. amosnula has starry, blue flowers, which are produced 
before the leaves. It greatly resembles S. Siberica, and is 
a native of the north of Europe. The bulb produces several 
flower-scapes, which are from one to three flowered. 

S. amcena. — This is one of the best species, and, though 
a native of the Levant, is generally hardy. The flowers 
are bright blue, produced on an erect spike. Introduced 
in 1596. 

S. verna. — This species is a native of England. The 
flowers are blue, pink, or white, and fragrant. They do 
best in moist, sandy soil. 

S. autumnalis. — Another British species, growing freely 
in sandy soil. Flowers pink in September. 



THE SCILLA. 89 

S. bifolia. — A very pretty species, native of France, 
with blue flowers, and white and pink varieties, all of 
which are desirable. It requires no care beyond planting 
in sandy loam. 

S. Peruviana. — A fine species, native of Italy and 
Spain. It has blue or white flowers, in large, erect trusses. 
The soil must be light and sandy, and plenty of water must 
be given when in growth. It is probably only half-hardy. 

Scilla esculenta. — This plant is a native of Missouri, 
and produces a spike of pretty blue flowers. It is not 
hardy in New England.* 

The following species are only valuable in a collection. 
Most of them are tender, and none particularly desirable. 

S. umbellata. — Native of Pyrenees, introduced in 1822 ; 
flowers blue. 

S. Lilio hyacinthus. — Native of south of Europe, intro- 
duced in 1597 ; flowers blue. 

S. hrevifolia. — Native of Cape of Good Hope, intro- 
duced in 1811 ; flowers white. 

S. corymbosa. — Native of Cape of Good Hope, intro- 
duced in 1793 ; flowers pink. 

S. Italica. — Native of Switzerland, introduced in 1605 ; 
flowers purplish. 

* See Camassia esculenta. 



90 THE URGINEA. — THE MYOGALUM. 

S. Lusitanica. — Native of Portugal, introduced in 1777 ; 
flowers blue. 

S. hyacinthoides. — Native of Madeira, introduced in 
1585 ; flowers lead-color. 

There are other species of little cultural value. * 

THE URGINEA. 

This plant is also known as Scilla maritima and Orni- 
thogalum maritimum. It is a native of the shores of the 
Mediterranean, and is of some officinal value. 

It is not uncommon in cultivation, but is not hardy. 
The bulb is large ; the flowers, greenish- white, on a very 
long spike, are produced in summer ; and the foliage grows 
during the winter. The bulbs should be grown in sand ; 
but they are hardly worthy of culture. 

THE MYOGALUM. 

This name has been given to the plant commonly known 
as " British harebell," and botanically as Scilla, or Hya- 
cinthus non scriptus. 

The flowers are blue nodding, and somewhat resemble a 

* See " Garden Flowers." 



THE NARCISSUS. 



91 



hyacinth, and also are very like those of 8 cilia cernua. It 
is an elegant little flower, requiring very little care, save to 
be planted in a damp, shady spot, and left to take care of 
itself. It is a well-known wild-flower in England, but is 
little known in this country. The name "harebell" is a 
strange misnomer ; although the flowers have a slight resem- 
blance to the campanula, usually so called. There are 
varieties with pink and white flowers ; but they are not as 
desirable as the species. The plant would probably prove 
hardy with slight protection. 




THE NARCISSUS. 



This is a very extensive family of well-known and pop- 
ular garden-flowers. Their culture is very simple, as they 



92 THE NARCISSUS. 

thrive in any good garden-loam, and need little care after 
planting. All the species are hardy in England, and most 
of them thrive out of doors in the Middle and Southern 
states ; but many of the most beautiful, and especially the 
polyanthus group, are not hardy enough to perfectly stand 
a New-England winter, though they often survive unin- 
jured. 

The hardy species should be planted in clumps, the bulbs 
about two inches apart each way, and three inches deep, in 
good garden-soil, in October ; and need not be disturbed 
oftener than once in three or four years, and not then 
unless they have crowded each other by the production of 
offsets. If the soil is wet, they are benefited by the addi- 
tion of a little sand placed around each bulb. They all 
propagate well by offsets, and may also be increased by 
seed, which, in most species, ripens plentifully. 

Many species, especially those of the polyanthus tribe, 
are often grown in the house for winter-flowering. They 
may be successfully grown in water, sand, or earth ; and 
require the same treatment as hyacinths. 

The jonquil is a species of narcissus, easily grown in the 
house or garden, and always a favorite for its bright, fra- 
grant flowers. The chief species of narcissus are — 



THE NARCISSUS. 93 

N. poeticus. — This very common and beautiful species 
is a native of Southern Europe. There are many varieties, 
including double and semi-double ; but all are easily dis- 
tinguished from other species by the deep-purple ring in 
the centre of the color, round the margin of the cup. The 
flowers are solitary, white, with a yellow cup, bordered by 
red, purple, or orange. 

This species needs a deep, rather moist soil, and in such 
never fails to expand its flowers. In poor soils, the flowers 
are very apt to dry up in the bud-sheath, which they do not 
appear to have strength to break. The double varieties 
are more liable to this disease than the single. All the 
varieties are perfectly hardy, and, once planted, may 
remain undisturbed for years. 

N. biflorus. — The origin of this species is unknown : 
it has, however, been a garden-flower for several hundred 
years. It resembles the species last described, but is 
readily distinguished by having two or three flowers on. a 
stem, and by the rim of the cup being white. The flowers 
are handsome, and very fragrant. The species and vari- 
eties are perfectly hardy, though not very common. 

N. gracilis. — A common and pretty pale-yellow species, 
with a deeper-colored variety : both hardy, and growing 
freely in any garden-soil. 



94 THE NARCISSUS. 

N. bulbocodium. — This is the well-known and hand- 
some hoop-petticoat narcissus. The flowers are bright 
yellow, with wavy margin, and are very ornamental. 
Though a native of Portugal, it generally proves hardy, 
but needs to be a little favored by planting it in a sheltered 
situation. 

There is another species nearly allied to this, known as 
N. Gantabricus, or Corbularia albicans, or Cantabricus, 
which has white flowers, and which is desirable. 

N. tenuifolius is a closely allied species of smaller 
growth, which is rather tender. 

N. pseudo-narcissus. — This is the common daffodil, 
too well known to need description. It sports into many 
varieties, and is usually found in a double form. The bulb 
only requires to be planted in good soil, and to be undis- 
turbed. 

N. minor. — A pretty little species, with many varieties, 
as nanus, pumilus, minimus, all with bright-yellow flowers 
and dwarf habit, perfectly hardy, and very ornamental ; na- 
tive of Spain, but long an inhabitant of the garden. 

N. bicolor. — This species differs from the common 
daffodil by the difference of color between the cup and 
remainder of the flower ; the former being all shades of 



THE NARCISSUS. 95 

cream or white in different varieties, the latter being yellow. 
The stalk is round, while that of the common daffodil is 
flat. It is hardy, and only requires simple garden-cul- 
ture. 

N. moschatus. — A pretty species, with whitish flowers ; 
in some of the varieties, very drooping ; often known as 
white Spanish daffodil. It is hardy, but needs rich soil to 
bloom well. Introduced from Spain in 1759. 

N. major. — The species commonly called great yellow 
Spanish daffodil has been very showy in our garden for 
a number of years. It thrives in a deep sandy loam, and 
is a great improvement on the common daffodil. 

N. montanus. — This is a beautiful species, with white, 
graceful, drooping flowers. It is of rather difficult culture, 
needing a deep, rich, moist soil, and a sheltered situation. 
It is a native of the Pyrenees, and has long been known as 
a garden-flower. 

N. jonquilla. — This name is from juncus, a diminutive, 
signifying " little rush ;" and the species is one of the most 
popular of the family. The flowers of all the varieties are 
bright yellow, fragrant, and freely produced. All are well 
suited for window-plants, as the flowers seldom fail to ex- 
pand, and continue a long time in perfection. A bulb-case 



96 THE NARCISSUS. 

planted with jonquils is a charming winter ornament for 
the parlor. 

N. tazetta. — Under this head we must include all the 
varieties of the polyanthus narcissus. The name is a dimin- 
utive, from tazza, " a cup ; " and its application is obvious. 
The many varieties are all handsome, and only differ in the 
colors of the cup and petals, and in sturdiness of growth. 
The earliest variety is Gloriosa, white,with yellow cup. Other 
fine varieties are Bazelman major, white, yellow cup ; Bazel- 
man minor, white and yellow ; Bouquet-triomphant, white, 
orange cup ; Grand monarque, white, citron cup ; Grand pri- 
mo, white> citron cup; Grand soldi d'or, yellow, orange 
cup ; Luna, pure white ; Newton, yellow ; Queen of the 
Netherlands, very large, white ; Staten- General, lemon and 
yellow. 

When grown in the open air in New England, these bulbs 
are apt to start in the autumn, and have the shoot killed 
in the winter. The only remedy is to take them out of the 
ground when the foliage has decayed, and keep them in a 
cool place till November, when they may be replanted. 
They also need a sheltered situation, and to be well covered 
with leaves during the winter. 

For house-culture they are charming subjects, requiring 
the same treatment prescribed for hyacinths. 



THE NARCISSUS. 97 

N. Italicus. — This pretty species and its varieties are 
not hardy. The flower is white and very pretty, but is sel- 
dom seen in cultivation. 

N. PAPrKACEUS. — This species, usually known as the 
paper- white narcissus, is very ornamental, but not hardy. 
It, however, does well in the greenhouse, and blooms very 
early in the winter. The variety called " Double Roman " 
has peculiar yellow and white mixed flowers, and blooms 
about Christmas. It is very valuable as a parlor-plant 
and for early forcing. 

There are many other species,* — Loudon enumerating 
about fifty, — and innumerable seedling varieties : all are 
worthy of cultivation, and will well repay the care of the 
amateur. The fanciful divisions of the family proposed by 
some botanists have not been adopted, and all are now 
known as narcissus. 

* See " Garden Flowers." 

7 







VII. 



THE SNOWDROP, LEUCOJUM, CROCUS. 




THE SNOWDROP. 

ONG- before the balmy breezes 
of spring remind us that it cannot 
be always winter, the snowdrop 
wakens from its sleep, and glad- 
dens our eyes by its simple beauty and sweet perfume. Later 
in the season, when the garden is gay with flowers, it would 
be almost unnoticed : but for long, dreary days, it is the 
flower of spring ; and, as such, we love and cherish it. 

The snowdrop thrives in any good garden-soil enriched 
by well-rotted manure or leaf-mould. It will live and bloom 
in almost any situation, and will endure a great amount of 
hard treatment before it is finally killed : but few flowers 
better repay care and good culture. The bulbs should be 
planted in September or October, the earlier the better, to 
enable them to make good roots and growth before the 



THE SNOWDROP. 99 

ground freezes up. They should be set about two or three 
inches deep, and about an inch apart, in triple lines or in 
clumps, as, if planted singly, they are not conspicuous. The 
bulbs should not be kept long out of the ground, and are 
not benefited by frequent transplanting. Some writers 
advise annually replanting them after the foliage decays, 
and the removal of all offsets. This may be advantageous 
if increase is the object ; but our experience has shown 
that it is best to disturb the clumps only when the increase 
of offsets renders them too large or crowded, or when the 
bulbs grow out of the ground, which they do in a few years 
in a border, unless the soil is annually top-dressed. 

The flowers of all species appear very early in the season ; 
generally, however, in New England, not before the first of 
February, even in most favorable situations and in most 
sheltered places ; and continue in perfection a very long 
time, closing in cloudy, inclement weather, and expanding in 
sunshine. By planting in different exposures, a succession 
may be had from February to May. The single variety 
expands earlier than the double, and is followed by the 
large Crimean snowdrop, which is larger than either. 
The single snow T drop is a native of England, and is found 
in shady woods where there is a rich deposit of vegetable 



100 THE LEUCOJUM. 

matter or leaf-mould. The double form is a garden variety. 
The species are 

G. nivalis. — The single snowdrop with double variety ; 
and 

G. plicatus. — The Crimean or Russian snowdrop, which 
is twice as large as the common species, of the same color, 
with broad leaves, and flower-stems nine inches high. 

THE LEUCOJUM. 

All the species of this plant are commonly known as 
snowflakes, and differ but little save in the time of bloom- 
ing. 

The bulbs are rather large, and only require to be planted 
in good garden-soil, where they take care of themselves, and 
bloom freely every year. They propagate readily by offsets, 
and also ripen seed : almost all are hardy enough to stand 
a New-England winter. The species are 

L. (Erinosma) vernum. — A very pretty bulb, much 
resembling the snowdrop, but flowering a month later. It 
is a little tender, and needs a rather peaty soil to bloom it 
successfully. It is a native of Germany and Italy, and has 
been in cultivation since 1596. 



THE LEUCOJUM. 101 

There is a variety sometimes called L. Carpat]iicum, 
which differs from the species iu having yellow spots on 
the flower instead of green, and in having two flowers on 
one stalk. 

L. ^estivum. — This pretty plant is common in gardens. 
The flowers are white, with bright-green spots, the foliage 
having a yellowish tinge. It is a native of England and 
other parts of Europe, and is perfectly hardy in any situa- 
tion. 

L. pulchellum is only a variety of this species. 
The other species of Leucojum have been called AciS 
by many botanists, and are readily distingushed from those 
above described by the narrowness of the leaves and the 
smallness of the flowers. They are by no means as orna- 
mental as those above described, and are less hardy. 

L. (Acis) autumnalis. — This is a pretty little species, 
with pink flowers, produced in autumn before the leaves. 
It is a native of Spain and Algiers, and requires green- 
house treatment. 

L. (Acis) trichophyllum. — This is a small species, 
growing only a few inches high. The flowers are white, 
and produced in spring. It requires greenhouse culture 
and a sandy soil. 



102 THE CROCUS. 

L. (Acis) roseum. — The flowers of this species are rose- 
color, drooping ; produced, three or four in succession, in 
autumn. It requires greenhouse protection, sandy loam, 
and to be kept hot and dry when at rest. 

A species called grandiflorum has large, white, drooping 
flowers. 

THE CROCUS. 

This pretty spring-flowering plant is common in every 
garden ; and like the snowdrop, which it succeeds in its 
period of flowering, it will endure a vast amount of ill 
treatment, but is none the less benefited by careful culture. 

The crocus is primarily divided into two classes, — those 
flowering in spring and those blooming in autumn. Of the 
number of species, there is great question among botanists. 
Loudon enumerates sixteen. Mrs. Loudon, in her charming 
work on " Bulbs," speaks of ninety species and varieties. 
Sweet, in his "Catalogue of Plants," gives but twenty ; and 
the catalogues of modern florists almost ignore the species, 
but give us scores of seminal varieties. Indeed, such has 
been the improvement in this flower since it came into the 
culturist's hands, that the varieties exceed in beauty any of 
the species, most of which are now found only in botanic 



THE CROCUS. 103 

gardens or with amateur collectors, if, indeed, many are 
not lost to cultivation. The crocus is a native of Europe 
and Middle Asia, but has from a very early period been 
domesticated in the garden. 

The culture is only to plant them in a rich, light, damp 
soil, but where no water will stand around the bulbs, and 
leave them to take care of themselves. They are, however, 
benefited by an annual top-dressing of well-rotted manure. 

The bulbs should be planted three inches deep, and 
should not be disturbed oftener than once in three or four 
years, and then only if they are growing out of the ground. 

When it is necessary to remove them, it should be done 
as soon as the foliage dies ; and the bulbs should be imme- 
diately replanted. There are very few hardy bulbs that are 
improved by the annual drying and transplanting process. 

A bed of crocus does not arrive at its full beauty until 
the second or third year after planting ; and, after that, it 
will continue to improve for many years, if the bulbs were 
not originally planted too close together, and thus become 
crowded. The proper distance to plant the bulbs is one 
inch apart each way. It is to be remembered, however, 
that the crocus grows and increases upwards, and not 
laterally. 



104 THE CEOCUS. 

Crocus do not thrive well under the shade of trees, as 
they do not seem to mature their foliage before the sunlight 
is shut off from them. 

Imported bulbs should be planted as soon as possible in 
the autumn ; the earlier the better. 

There is no better plant for clumps, lines, masses, or 
even whole beds, for the early spring-garden ; and very 
striking effects may be produced by judicious planting. 
With this flower, as with most others, there is nothing 
gained by mixing varieties or colors : each color should be 
in a mass or line by itself, and should contrast strongly with 
those on either side. We clip the following directions for 
planting beds from an article in an English magazine : — 

" Very fine beds may be formed by planting a double row 
of Mont Blanc, white, six inches from the edge ; six inches 
from that, again, a double row of Prince Albert, blue ; then, 
at a like distance, Dutch crocus, yellow ; a fourth, of La 
Majesteuse, striped ; a fifth, of Othello, dark violet ; and 
Giant Yellow in the centre. This will be splendid for a 
circular bed seven feet across. For a border six feet 
wide, we have the first row six inches from the edge ; a 
double one, white, Queen Victoria : the others being, second, 
Cloth of Gold, yellow ; third, Garibaldi, purple ; fourth, 



THE CROCUS. 105 

Aletta Wilheimena, white, flamed with violet ; fifth, New Large 
Yellow ; sixth, Vulcan , deep purple. The second row is 
one foot from the first, and so on ; early tulips being planted 
between each. Again : we have a border twelve feet wide, 
to be planted as follows, in twenty-four rows : Queen Vic- 
toria, white ; Captain Cook, purple ; Cloth of Gold, yellow ; 
Argus, violet, white margin ; David JRizzio, dark purple ; 
Sulphur eus, brimstone-yellow ; Mont Blanc, white ; Prince 
Albert, purple ; Large Yellow ; Cloth of Silver, white, pur- 
ple stripes ; Ne Plus Ultra, blue, tipped with white ; Yellow 
Dutch ; Princess of Wales, dark purple ; Caroline Chisholm, 
white ; New Large Yellow ; Albion, blue, white-and-blue 
stripes ; Van Speyh, feathered, blue and white ; Yellow 
Dutch • Lord Raglan, dark blue ; Diana, white ; Cloth of 
Gold ; Lilaceus superbus, light violet, white margin ; Versi- 
color, white, purple veins ; Large Yellow ; Grande Vedette" 
If, after blooming, the crocus-bed is wanted for other 
flowers, the bulbs may be removed in clumps, with balls of 
earth, to a reserve garden, after blooming, and, in autumn, 
be retransplanted to their original position. A good plan, 
however, is to plant the crocus in double rows ; the first, 
six inches from the edge of the border, and the next a foot 
from the edge, and so on ; which leaves space for early 



106 THE CROCUS. 

tulips, which are done flowering in time to have their 
places supplied by bedding-plants : and thus the crocuses 
are not disturbed, and their foliage renders the tulips more 
effective. 

For house-culture the crocus is well adapted, and does 
well grown in earth or water : bloomed in a pan of white 
sand, the yellow and purple varieties are very pretty. 

In England, there are glasses made especially for crocus 
culture ; but we do not remember to have seen them in this 
country. 

Crocus, snowdrops, and similar bulbs, may be had in 
bloom about Christmas by taking up the most promising 
clumps from the border about the last of October, and pot- 
ting them in small pots, in leaf-mould. Water them, and 
keep them in a cold frame till well established ; then place 
them in a cool greenhouse, on shelves near the glass, where 
they can have plenty of air in pleasant weather. Water 
them well ; and, about the last of November, remove them 
to a light, airy shelf in a greenhouse, where the thermome- 
ter registers 50° at night. If they do not advance suf- 
ciently rapidly, increase the heat ; but always bear in mind 
that air and light, and not too high a temperature, are 
the conditions of success. Crocus are easily raised from 



THE CROCUS. 107 

seed, which ripens freely. The seeds should be gathered 
just before the pods burst, kept about a month in the pods, 
and then be sown in drills in the garden. If the soil is 
rich (and it cannot be too rich), many will bloom the third 
year. The crocus seeds under ground ; the pods coming 
to the surface only when the seeds are ripe. 

Some of the species which are the parents of the garden 
varieties are 

G. biflorus. — This species, commonly known as the 
Scotch (though why would be difficult to say) or twin- 
flowering crocus, is a native of the Crimea, and is very 
hardy, and early flowering. It will grow with little care, 
but is impatient of removal. The flowers are twin ; of a 
white, striped with purple ; and remain long in perfection. 

G. vermes. — This is the wild English species, though 
probably only naturalized, and not indigenous. The flower 
is pale lilac, varying to white and purple, but never yellow. 
It ripens seed freely. 

G. versicolor. — This is the parent of many of the fine 
seedling varieties. The flower is purple and white, and 
very fragrant. 

G. Susianus. — The cloth-of-gold crocus has been an 
inhabitant of the garden for many hundred years. The 



108 THE CROCUS. 

flowers are yellow inside, with dark lines on the outer part 
of the petals : they expand early in spring, after the Scotch 
crocus, and before the larger-flowered varieties. It is a 
native of Southern Europe. 

G. luteus. — This is the well-known large yellow crocus, 
so effective from its brilliant color on sunny days in spring. 
It is a native of the Levant, but has been in cultivation 
since 1620. 

In England, this species, as indeed all yellow crocus, is 
attacked by sparrows, who, in a pure spirit of mischief, tear 
the flowers to pieces, and spoil the beauty of the bed. In 
this country, however, we experience little trouble from 
this cause. There are many other species, among which 
we may mention G. minimus, reticulatus, lagenceflorus, 
sulphureus, suavolens, Imperati, and the autumn-flowering 
species, sativus, or saffron crocus, producing the saffron of 
commerce, which is the stigma of the flower ; G. serotinus, 
speciosus, and autumnalis, which differ from the spring- 
blooming species in the season of flowering, and require the 
same general culture. 




EINGr wholly destitute of the delicate grace 
of many' bulbs, the tulip is ever attractive 
from its beauty, and brilliancy of color, and 
delicate markings. Probably no flower was 
ever a subject of commercial speculation, or rather gam- 
bling, to such an extent ; and the history of the " Tulipo- 
mania " in the latter part of the sixteenth and early part of 
the seventeenth centuries, when as much as five hundred 
pounds were paid for a single bulb, is a most readable 
chapter of extravagant delusion. Although the mania has 
long since been seen in its true light, yet, even at the pres- 
ent time, larger sums are paid for tulips than for any other 



109 



110 THE TULIP. 

bulb ; and the raiser of a new and really fine tulip is sure 
to find a profit in the operation. 

All our garden tulips, that is, " show varieties," are the 
offspring of T. Gesneriana. The other species, however, 
are very curious, and some very beautiful, and are well 
worthy of a place in the garden. 

While volumes have been written upon the culture of the 
tulip, its successful growth is by no means difficult. The 
beds are usually prepared four feet wide, and excavated 
about thirty inches deep : about six inches of well-rotted 
horse or sheep dung is placed in the bottom, and the bed 
filled up, about four inches above the former level, with 
light rich soil. In this the bulbs are planted in October, 
six inches from each other, and so deep that the point 
of the bulb is two inches below the surface ; the holes 
being made with a common dibble, and filled in with fine 
sand, in which the bulb is to be planted. 

The bulbs should be set with reference to their habit ; the 
tall growers in the middle, and those of lower growth on 
the outside. During winter, the bed should be covered 
with a layer of coarse litter or tan, to protect the bulbs 
from severe frost. This should be removed in early spring, 
and the surface of the ground gently stirred. As the 



THE TULIP. Ill 

plants come into bloom, they should be protected by an 
awning, to preserve them longer in perfection. After the 
flowers have faded, the awning should be removed, and 
the plants allowed to ripen the foliage. When this is done, 
the bulbs should be taken up carefully, dried, and kept in a 
dry, cool place until the season for planting again arrives. 
Tulips will, however, grow in any deep, rich, light soil. 
They are very impatient of standing water, and do not im- 
prove by being left in the ground from year to year : 
indeed, if not annually taken up, they " run out," to use 
the gardener's term ; that is, the choicer and more delicate 
varieties die out, and the stronger and coarser revert to 
the old red color. Much that is curious might be written 
upon the disappointed hopes of the raisers of seedling tu- 
lips ; for the chances of success are very small, and those of 
failure very great. Seedlings bloom in about five years, 
and the modes taken to make them " break " are* very curi- 
ous. Tulips are divided into three classes, — bizarres, by- 
bloemens, and roses. In the former, the ground-color is 
yellow ; and in the two latter, white. A chief point of per- 
fection is the purity of this ground-color : if at all marked 
or cloudy, the flower is poor. The base of the flower 
inside should be clear ; that is, none of the marking should 



112 THE TULIP. 

run down to the bottom of the cup. The stamens should 
also be white or yellow, according to the class. 

Each class is further divided, as regards marking, into 
Ci flamed and feathered." If the marking of the flower is 
confined to the edge of the petals, it is feathered ; but, if a 
dark broad stripe runs down the centre, it is flamed. In 
every case, the colors must be well defined. 

THE PROPERTIES OP A GOOD TULIP, AS A FLORIST'S 
FLOWER, ARE, 

1. The cup should form, when quite expanded, from half 
to a third of a hollow ball. To do this, the petals must be 
six in number, broad at the ends, smooth at the edges ; and 
the divisions between the petals must scarcely show an 
indenture. 

2. The three inner petals should set close to the three 
outer ones ; and the whole should be broad enough to allow 
of the fullest expansion without quartering, as it is called ; 
that is, exhibiting any vacancy between the petals. 

3. The petals should be thick, smooth, and stiff, and 
keep their form well. 

4. The ground should be clear and distinct, whether 



THE TULIP. 113 

white or yellow. The least stain, even at the lower 
end of the petal, would render a tulip comparatively value- 
less. 

5. Roses, bybloemens, and bizarres are the three classes 
into which tulips are now divided. The first have a white 
ground, and crimson or pink or scarlet marks ; the second 
have white grounds, and purple, lilac, or black marks ; and 
the last have yellow grounds, with any colored marks. 

6. Whatever be the disposition of colors, or marks, upon 
a tulip, all the six petals should be marked alike, and be, 
therefore, perfectly uniform. 

7. The feathered flowers should have an even, close 
feathering all round ; and whether narrow or wide, light or 
heavy, should reach far enough round the petals to form, 
when they are expanded, an unbroken edging all round. 

8. If the flower have any marking besides the feathering 
at the edge, it should be a beam, or bold mark down the 
centre, but not reaching the bottom, or near the bottom, of 
the cup : the mark, or beam, must be similar in all the six 
petals. 

9. Flowers not feathered, and with flame only, must 
have no marks on the edges of the flowers. None of the 
color must break through to the edge. The color may be 



114 THE TULIP. 

disposed in any form, so that it be perfectly uniform in all 
the petals, and does not go too near the bottom. 

10. The color, whatever it may be, must be dense and 
decided. Whether it be delicate and light, or bright or 
dark, it must be distinct in its outline, and not shaded or 
flushed or broken. 

11. The height should be eighteen to thirty-six inches: 
the former is right for the outside row in a bed, and the 
latter is right for the highest row. 

12. The purity of the white and the brightness of the 
yellow should be permanent ; that is to say, should stand 
until the petals actually fall. 

While a bed of choice tulips may be very expensive, a 
fine show may be made with but a trifling outlay. The 
following lists are given by the best English authority, — 
the one, dividing the bulbs into classes ; the other, arran- 
ging them according to color. 

Those mentioned in the following list are not expensive, 
and are of vigorous constitution. 

BIZARRES. 

Albion, Bizarre, Cato, Crusader, Duke of Devonshire, 
Duke of Sutherland, Dr. Horner, Fabius, Garrick, Ibra- 



THE TULIP. 115 

him Pacha, Lord Raglan, Marshal Soult, Mr. F. Perkins, 
Omar Pacha, Pilot, Polyphemus, Royal Sovereign, Vivid. 

BYBLOEMENS. 

Alexander Magnus, Addison, Bloemast, Chellaston Beau- 
ty, David, Earl of Haddington, General Bamoselde, George 
Glenny, Grace Darling, Lord Denman, Maid of Orleans, 
Queen of Violets, Triomphe de Lisle, Victoria Regina. 

ROSES. 

Aglaia, Baron Gesdoffi, Countess of "Wilton, Camise de 
Croix, Claudiana, Duchess of Kent, La Belle Nannette, 
Lady Stanley, Madame Vestris, Naomi, Undine, Ponceau de 
tres blanc, Triomphe Royal. 

Many of the self or one-colored tulips are very showy in 
masses ; and the double varieties, if of good color, are very 
effective. The parrot-tulips are hybrids between T. cornuta 
and T. sylvestris, and are well worthy a place in the garden. 

The charming early Due Van Thol, both in the single and 
double state, is an indispensable ornament of the early 
spring-border. 



116 THE TULIP. 

Some of the smaller early tulips force well in sand and 
earth, requiring the treatment already prescribed for narcis- 
sus and hyacinths. We have in our garden a charming 
little tulip of a vivid yellow, deliciously fragrant, and pro- 
ducing two or three flowers on a stem, which we received 
from Holland a few years since under the name of T. 
fragrans. It is perfectly hardy, flowers freely, and remains 
long in perfection. 

The following list will be found useful to those who plant 
tulips for general effect of color : — 

YELLOW. 

Canary Bird. — Rich pure yellow ; nine inches high. 
Potlebakker Yellow. — Yellow self ; nine to twelve inches. 
Due Van Thol. — Yellow, early, and dwarf; four to six 
inches. 

Yellow Prince. — A good yellow ; nine inches. 
Thomas Moore. — Orange, distinct ; nine inches. 

WHITES. 

Potlebakker. — White, very fine ; nine to twelve inches. 
Luna. — A fine variety. 



THE TULIP. 117 

Queen Victoria. — Small, fine form, white and crimson ; 
nine inches. 

Jagt Van Delft. — White self, fine form ; nine inches. 
La Laitere. — White, with water-blue tint ; nine inches. 

SCARLET. 

TypJion. — Crimson-scarlet, fine ; nine inches. 

Due Van Thol. — Scarlet ; six inches. 

Cramoisi fidele. — Intense scarlet. 

Couleur Cramoisie. — Crimson-scarlet. 

Vermilion brillant. — The best scarlet ; six to nine 
inches. 

La Belle Alliance. — Rich crimson-scarlet; six to nine 
inches. 

BLUE SHAPES. 

Florida. — Purplish violet ; nine inches. 
Ber angaria. — Purple, with a little mauve. 
Archas. — Violet-purple, lilac belt. 
Caiman. — Yiolet or puce, lilac margin. 
La Plaisante. — Violet, slight rosy tint. 
Wouverman. — Violet-purple. 



118 THE TULIP. 

FEATHERED, STRIPED, AND TINTED. 

Due Van Thol. — Red, orange border, early ; four to six 
inches. 

KeizerJcroon. — Yellow ground, flaked with vivid scarlet. 

Standard Royal. — White ground, flaked with carmine. 

Alida Marie. — White tipped, and flaked with cerise ; 
very fine. 

Bride of Haarlem. — White, bordered with crimson. 

Rosa Mundi. — White-shaded rose. 

Rose Luisante. — Rosy crimson, peach edges. 

Due Major. — Rich red, margin orange-yellow. 

Rose Tendre. — White feathered, and striped with crimson. 

Roi Pepin. — White striped, and flaked with crimson. 

Ma Plus Aimable. — Bronzy red, flaked with orange. 

Standard of Gold. — Yellow, crimson tip. 

DOUBLE TULIPS. 

Tournesol. — Scarlet and yellow. 
Yellow Rose. — Yellow. 
La Candeur. — The best white. 
Rex Rubrorum. — Crimson-scarlet. 



THE TULIP. 119 

Imperator Rubrorum. — Crimson-scarlet. 
Peony Gold. — Golden-yellow, feathered with crimson. 
Couronne Pourpre. — Rich crimson. 
Manage de ma Fille. — White-striped, violet-rose. 
Overwinner. — White, barred and feathered, with violet- 
purple. 

Gloria Solis. — Crimson, yellow border. 
Due Van Thiol, — Red and yellow. 

Among the species of tulips we may enumerate 

T. biflora. — The smallest of the genus, with white flowers 
and yellow centre ; a native of Russia, and perfectly hardy. 

T. tricolor. — A fine species, with white flowers, tinged 
with green and yellow. Native of the Altai Mountains. 

T. Celsiana. — A handsome species, with yellow flowers. 
Native of Siberia. 

T. sylvestris. — A common yellow species, with drooping, 
fragrant flowers. A native of France. 

T. oculis solis. — A fine species, nearly allied to T. Ges- 
neriana, but easily distinguished by the black centre. A 
native of Italy and France. 

T. suavolens. — This is the well-known Due Van Thol 
tulip, so pretty and fragrant in early spring. There are 



120 ' THE IRIS. 

many varieties, all ornamental in the bulb-border. These 
tulips are better adapted for forcing than any other species. 
T. cornuta. — This is a very hardy species, more curious 
than beautiful. A native of the Levant, and only requir- 
ing to be planted in the border, where it will care for itself. 

the iris. ' 

All the plants of this family are ornamental in flower, 
and of very easy culture. They are divided into two classes, 
— those with bulbous and those with tuberous roots. The 
latter will thrive in any common garden-soil, and only need 
the usual treatment given hardy, herbaceous plants ; that 
is, slight annual manuring when the border is dug in the 
spring, occasional resetting when the clumps grow out of 
the ground, and division when the clumps become too 
large. The former are generally hardy, and should be 
planted in October, in a light, rich soil, and protected by 
litter thrown over the bed in the winter. The bulbs should 
be set about three inches deep, and, every third year, should 
be taken up, and replanted ; as, the new bulb forming under 
the old, the bulbs grow down, bury themselves, and are 
lost. They may be transplanted as soon as the foliage 



THE IRIS. 121 

decays, and are freely propagated by seeds and by 
offsets. 

The following is a select list of the tuberous varieties, 
mostly hybrids from i". Germanica, which may prove valu- 
able in making a selection, as the number of varieties now 
in florists' catalogues sadly puzzle the amateur : — 

Nuncio. — Bright yellow, and reddish purple. 

Archento. — Bright yellow, and black. 

Gysels. — Blue and white, mottled. 

Ariadne. — Purple and white. 

Aliasuerus. — Light and dark purple. 

Gonzales. — Straw, purple, and white. 

Proserpine. — Yellow and chocolate. 

Reticulata. — White and purple. 

Azurea. — Clear blue. 

Reticulata superha. — White, purple stripes. 

Adonis. — Straw, purple, and white. 

Nationale. — Deep purple. 

Aurea reticulata. — Yellow, purple, and chocolate. 

Ducliesse de Nemours. — Purple and pearl-color. 

Antinous. — Yellow and purple. 

Spectabilis. — Yellow and brownish purple. 



122 THE IRIS. 

Salimon. — Yellow, buff, and imperial purple. 
Aurea. — Light yellow. 
Julia Grisi. — Purple and pearl. 
Louis Van Houtte. — Deep purple. 
Speciosa. — Deep purple. 
Bougerie. — Purple. 
Psyche. — Purple and white. 
Clitoris. — Mottled, purple and white. 
Arlequin melanais. — Purple and white. 
Cornelie. — Purple and straw-color. 
Harus. — Purple, and brownish white. 
Album. — White, purple, and brown. 
Murito. — Straw-color and white. 
Alvarez. — Straw-color and purple. 
Van Geertii. — Purple and brown. 
La Tendre. — Yellow, brownish purple. 
Victorie. — Lemon-color. 
Morpheus. — Purple and white, veined. 
Agatha. — Dark purple. 
Celestina. — Blue. 
Lgnacita. — Purple and white. 
Reticulata alba. — White, blue-veined. 
Fleur de Marie. — Purple and white. 



THE IRIS. 123 

Calypso. — Purple, white, and blue. 
Augustissima. — Orange and brown. 
Apollo. — Deep purple and white. 

A collection of these tuberous species is, in the latter part 
of June, one of the most effective sights in a garden. They do 
well, either in small clumps or in masses ; and, when the 
colors are well combined, the effect of large beds is very fine. 
Seed is freely produced, and is sown to raise new varie- 
ties. The older sorts are propagated by division of the 
roots in early spring, or when they have made their growth 
in July. 

In addition to the varieties above mentioned, there are 
hundreds of others of the same class, flowering from the 
first of June until the last of July, in some of the many 
varieties. 

There is also a class of spring-blooming species, all 
of dwarf growth, and admirably suited for the edging of 
spring-borders. The colors of most of these are light or 
dark blue : the species all bloom freely, and are very hardy, 
enduring ill treatment and careless planting, and flourishing 
and blooming in every soil and situation. They seldom 
ripen seed, but propagate very freely by division of the 
roots. Indeed, the clumps often increase so fast as to ren- 



124 THE IRIS. 

der division necessary every two years. The foliage is 
good, and remains green until autumn, though all the 
growth is made in early spring. Among these early-bloom- 
ing species we may mention 

I. cristata. — Flowers pale blue in May ; three inches 
high. 

I. pumila. — Flowers dark blue or white ; three inches 
high. 

I. lutescens. — Flowers yellowish white ; six inches high. 

"We have in our garden a most beautiful variety of /. 
pumila, which blooms rather later than the species, and 
has dark-purple flowers, with a rich velvety lustre, with 
shadings of orauge-yellow. 

The species of bulbous iris most commonly grown are 

I. Xiphium. — This species, commonly called the Spanish 
iris, and often found in the shops under the name of Iris 
Mispanica, is perfectly hardy in our gardens. The flowers 
are very handsome, and of various colors, fragrant, and 
freely produced. This species propagates itself readily by 
offsets : it also ripens seed in abundance, and hybridizes 
freely with the English iris. Indeed, the florists' catalogues 
give us hundreds of hybrid seedlings, which are indiscrimi- 
nately called English or Spanish iris. 



THE IRIS. 125 

/. Xiphiodes. — The bulbs of this species much resemble 
the last ; but they are larger and rounder. The flower is 
large, and very handsome. The plant is of stout habit. 
Although called the English iris, and sold under the name 
of Iris Angelica, the plant is a native of the Pyrenees ; but 
it has been in cultivation from a very early period. It 
propagates very slowly from offsets, but produces seed 
freely ; and thus the varieties are very numerous. The 
species and all varieties are perfectly hardy. 

I. Lusitanica. — This fine species is somewhat rare, and 
less hardy than the two last mentioned. The flowers are 
yellow, buff, and purple, and very handsome. The culture 
is simple, and similar to the last : only a slight winter pro- 
tection should be given. 

I. Persica. — This is a little gem of a flower, perfectly 
hardy, and coming into bloom with the early crocus. 
We can hardly describe in r words its delicate and yet 
striking beauty, nor do justice to the pleasing contrasts 
of color which it exhibits. The plant is a native of 
Persia, and yet endures our severest winters without 
protection. 

L tuberosa. — The snake's-head iris is a fine species, 
with rich, velvety flowers. It is a native of the Levant, but 



126 THE IRIS - 

will generally endure our winters. The flowers are pro- 
duced in May. 

I. Susiana. — This species, like the last, has roots rather 
tuberous than bulbous. The flowers are magnificent, and, 
under careful culture, freely produced. In the greenhouse, 
it blooms well ; and it is hardy enough to survive our 
winters, but must be taken up as soon as the foliage de- 
cays, as, if left in the ground, it makes a very early autumn 
growth, which is killed by the winter, and the bulb perishes. 
The soil for this species should be rather sandy. 

Besides these, there are some fifty species of iris ; and we 
know of no family of which all the species are so ornamen- 
tal.* The only culture the iris requires in the garden is to 
plant it like a tulip, and, after the leaves die, to take it up, 
as most of the bulbous species slowly sink into the ground 
by the production of new bulbs, bury themselves, and 
are lost. This is not, however, the case with I. Susiana 
and the tuberous species. Most of the species may be 
successfully forced, as prescribed for hyacinths, either in 
earth or water. 

The following are the characteristics of a good iris : — 

This flower is composed of three principal and three 
secondary petals, or divisions. The three principal fall 
* See " Garden Flowers." 



THE IRIS. 127 

down, and the others stand up. A glance at many of the 
families will soon decide a very important property in some, 
and deficiency in others, — the breadth of the three prin- 
cipal petals. It will occur to the untaught child, that the 
flower w r hich presents the largest portion of rich surface is 
the best. All who have grown the common iris know it has 
narrow, mean-looking petals : but the kind which has been 
propagated in England has a broad, rich-looking petal ; and 
upon this feature does the beauty of the iris turn. 

The three principal divisions, or petals, should be broad 
enough to touch each other, and form an arch or graceful 
curve, but described as one-third of a hollow ball or 
reversed cup, level at the lower edge by reason of the 
bluntness of the three petals at the outer end, which should 
form a circular outline on looking down upon them. The 
three smaller petals should stand up, and be perfectly clear 
of the three that fall down. 

The three lower petals should be of a rich velvety tex- 
ture, and be thick, smooth on the edges, firm in their places ; 
and whether self-colored, striped, mottled, shaded, or spot- 
ted, the color should be well defined. 

The three upper ones should be of a different color, and 
of a smooth or enamel kind of texture : the greater the 



128 THE MOREA. 

contrast of color, the better. The iris is a dwarf-plant ; and 
though three petals fall down and three stand up, and the 
fall of the broad petals is too sudden, and, on looking clown 
on them, they hardly form any recognizable outline, it is 
capable of being produced with a fall not so sudden, and a 
curve perfectly graceful ; and the great advantage of this 
will be, that the entire surface may be seen at once, instead 
of a portion only. 

The flowers should open but one at a time, that the 
beauty of the plant may be prolonged. The flower should 
be eighteen inches from the ground, and, when full grown 
and expanded, be four inches across. 

THE MOKE A. 

This family was separated from Iris on account of the 
nature of the bulb, which much resembles a corm. The 
flowers are very brilliant, but fugitive. The family is not 
hardy ; but many of the species do well in pots. The soil 
should be a sandy loam, and the plants require frequent 
syringings to keep them free from red spider. They are 
mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope ; and flower from 
April to July, according to the species. The bulbs do not 



THE HERBERTIA. — THE CYPELLA. 129 

bury themselves like an iris, but produce the new bulb on 
the top of the old, like a crocus : so they may be planted 
deeper than iris. 

M. sisyrinchium is a native of Spain, and might prove 
hardy : the flower is very handsome, deep blue, white, and 
yellow. 

Loudon enumerates some twenty-five species, some of 
which are very handsome. 

Some of the finest species are M. sisyrinchium , M. Teno- 
reana, white-and-blue flowers ; M. ciliata, yellow flowers ; 
M. barbigera, crimson and yellow ; M. luricla, dark red ; 
M. edulis, lilac ; M, angusta, white and purple. 

THE HERBERTIA. 

This beautiful and rare bulb is a native of South America, 
near the Straits of Magellan. It should be grown in pots, 
in a compost of loam, peat, and sand. The flowers some- 
what resemble an iris, and are blue, white, and pink. The 
chief species is H. pulchella. H. pusilla has striped flowers. 

THE CYPELLA. 

A very remarkably handsome bulb, of easy growth in 
the greenhouse. The flowers are yellow, with a dark stripe 
down each petal. 



130 THE PHALOCALLIS. — THE YIEUSSEUXIA. 

Our plants thrived well, planted in sandy loam, when im- 
ported in autumn ; and bloomed freely in spring, each bulb 
giving many flowers. The species is G. Herbertii. 

THE PHALOCALLIS, 

Another species of Cypella, often appears in nurserymen's 
catalogues as G. plumb ea, which should be P. plumbea. It 
is a beautiful plant, with evergreen leaves, and fugitive lead- 
color and yellow flowers, of which but one is produced from 
the bulb ; the individual flowers, with every care, lasting 
hardly a day. We have bloomed this plant most success- 
fully in a compost of loam and sand. It usually blooms in 
midsummer. The plant is a native of Mexico, and not 
very common. 

THE VIEUSSEUXIA. 

These plants were formerly classed as Iris, and are 
usually known as Peacock Iris. 

They are all Cape bulbs, with slender, iridaceous foliage, 
and very brilliant flowers. 

They should be potted in peat-loam and sand, about an 
inch deep, in autumn, and grown in an airy situation, with 



THE VIEUSSEUXIA. 



131 



frequent syringings to prevent the attacks of the red spider. 
The flowers will appear in spring and summer. After bloom- 
ing, the bulbs should be gradually ripened, and then kept 
dry till the season for replanting arrives. 

The most common species is V. glaucopis, having bril- 
liant white-and-blue flowers. There are also species with 
yellow, red, and purple flowers ; but they are by no means 
common. 

The flowers of all the species are produced singly, and 
are very transient. 




IX. 



THE KANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE. 




LT HOUGH florists' flowers, of 
which the subjects of our pres- 
ent chapter are familiar exam- 
ples, are seldom grown to perfec- 
tion in this country, yet they must receive a passing word. 

This neglect is especially noticeable in regard to both the 
ranunculus and anemone, as they can only be grown with 
frame protection in New England, and are not hardy enough 
to stand the winter unprotected. 

We have many species of both of these plants, which are 
well known, and valuable ornaments of our gardens, woods, 
and fields : but the subject of the present volume confines us 
to the consideration of the tuberous Banunculus Asiaticus 
and its varieties, and Anemone coronaria and A. hortensis ; 

132 






THE RANUNCULUS. 133 

these being the species from which the many varieties of 
garden ranunculus and anemone have been derived. 

THE RANUNCULUS. 

It has. always been a question with florists as to what soil 
is best suited to this plant. While any good, light soil will 
bloom the ranunculus, care in the preparation of a suitable 
bed is rewarded by increased size and beauty of flower, 
both in form, color, and substance. 

A compost which is sure to grow them well may be thus 
prepared : Cut from a good loamy pasture the surface sods, 
three inches thick: let these be piled one on another in 
ridges for a year, and then sliced down with a sharp spade 
to form a crumbly mass. Turn this over carefully, and 
pick out all wire-worms, grubs, and insects. Then pile it all 
into a heap again, and let it remain another year ; by which 
time, all the grass and herbage will have resolved itself into 
vegetable mould. At the end of the second year, turn it 
over again, and again pick out any worms or grubs as 
before. In a soil of this nature which is now ready for 
use, the ranunculus will grow well. 

The ranunculus likes a stifFer soil than the anemone, and 
is very impatient of drought. 



134 THE KANUNCULUS. 






Many florists use stimulating manures ; but their effect is 
bad on the tubers, causing rotting and disease, though often 
the size of the flower is increased. 

In forming beds, it is frequently the practice to place a 
layer of well-rotted cow-dung about nine inches below the 
surface, which operates in the twofold service of retaining 
moistur eand supplying nourishment. 

The compost given above will, however, grow the tubers 
well, and give satisfactory bloom, without any manure. 
The bed should be dug out about a foot deep, and filled in 
with the compost, and the tubers be planted two inches 
deep in November, the earth being pressed close around 
them. On the approach of very frosty weather, the bed 
should be covered with a frame filled with oak-leaves, and 
this again with boards, to exclude the frost. Early in the 
spring, remove the frame, and the plants will soon appear. 
Keep them clear of weeds, and fork the earth loosely around 
them, watering them thoroughly if there should be a season 
of drought. As they come into bloom, and begin to color, 
shade them from the sun by an awning. When the flowers 
have faded, and the foliage turned yellow, take up the tubers, 
and keep them in a cool place until the return of the plant- 
ing season. 



THE RANUNCULUS. 135 

The roots may be kept over the winter, and planted in the 
spring, as they are possessed of great vitality ; but they often 
become too dry, and more frequently mould. 

No plant is more easily increased by seed, which may be 
sown in February in light soil, in boxes, in the greenhouse, 
where it will vegetate freely in about a month ; but none of 
the seedlings will be like the parent plant or like each 
other. The young tubers should be ripened off in July ; and, 
treated like old plants, will flower the next June. 

The properties of a good ranunculus, as laid down by the 
best authorities, are, — the stem should be upright, eight to 
twelve inches high, and strong enough to support the flower. 
The form of the flower should be hemispherical, not less 
than two inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals, 
gradually diminishing in size to the centre, lying over each 
other so as neither to be too close nor too much separated, 
but having more of a perpendicular than horizontal direc- 
tion, in order to display the colors with better effect. The 
petals should be broad, with entire, well-rounded edges ; the 
colors dark, clear, rich, or brilliant, either of one color, or 
variously diversified on a ground of cinerous white, prim- 
rose-yellow, or flame-color, or diversified with elegant 
stripes, spots, or mottling. 



136 THE RANUNCULUS. 



The ranunculus may be forced by selecting tubers which 
have been kept several months over the season of planting, 
as these are more readily excited. Plant these in pots 
about the first of August ; grow them in a cold frame with 
plenty of air, light, and water ; and, by bringing them into the 
greenhouse at different times, a bloom may be kept up from 
October to February. 

This plant will well repay careful culture, and does not 
merit the neglect with which it has been treated in this 
country. 

As we have said, there are many hundred varieties : of 
these, the following are good : — 

Aigle noir. — Black. 

Commodore Napier. — -Yellow. 

Cramoisi a cceur vert. 

Hortense. 

Jaune panachee, 

Noir pourpre. — Black. 

Hercules. — White. 

Merveilleuse. — Yellow. 

Scarlet Roman. 

A collection of a hundred varieties ordered from any 
Dutch florist would probably contain many very fine kinds. 









THE ANEMONE. 137 

THE ANEMONE. 

The tubers should be planted late in October, in a bed 
prepared by removing the old soil to the depth of sixteen or 
eighteen inches. If the situation is cold and wet, drain it 
well, and do not go so deep ; if dry and warm, the bed may 
be made deeper. Fill in four to six inches of cow-drop- 
pings, such as may be gathered in the pastures. Upon this, 
place as much good fresh earth as will raise the beds to 
their former level, or a little higher, to allow for settling. 
On the approach of very frosty weather, cover with a 
frame, and exclude the frost. In fine, the treatment is 
exactly that prescribed for the ranunculus. 

Any common, moderately light soil suits the anemone : a 
wet, stiff soil rots the roots in winter. 

If necessary to make a soil, take maiden-loam from the 
surface of a pasture, turf and all : to every load of this 
add one of cow-dung, and half a load of clean, sharp, fresh 
sand. Form this into a ridge, and let it remain a year ; 
turning it, and picking out insects, every two months. A 
very good soil may be made of two parts garden-loam, one 
part well-rotted cow-dung, and one-half part sharp sand. 

The anemone is somewhat more hardy than the ranun- 



138 THE ANEMONE. 

cuius ; but the roots will not bear being long kept out of the 
ground. 

They are easily forced, and may be had in bloom any 
month iu the year by a series of plantings. 

Both the ranunculus and anemone are propagated, to pre- 
serve varieties, by division ; to produce new varieties, by 
seed. 

Every part of the crown, or root, which has a bud, will 
make a plant ; but it is not well to divide anemones too 
much, as they flower very weak if too small. The usual 
colors of anemones are red, white, and blue ; and the flow- 
ers are single, semi-double, and double. 

The raising of seedlings may be done as prescribed for 
ranunculus, the seed being saved from the best single and 
semi-double flowers. 

The properties of a good single anemone are, — 

The stem strong, elastic, and erect, not less than nine 
inches high ; the flower at least two inches and a half in 
diameter, consisting of large, substantial, well-rounded 
petals, at first horizontally extended, and then turning a 
little upwards, so as to form a broad, shallow cup ; the color 
clear and distinct when variegated in the same flower, or 
brilliant and striking if it consists of but one color. 



THE ANEMONE. 



139 



A double anemone should have the outer petals quite 
flat, the second series a little shorter, the third shorter still ; 
and so on till the centre is quite full, when the whole 
should form a rather flat hemisphere. Every double flower 
should be of one full color. 




Of anemones, there are about twenty species with tuber- 
ous roots, and some forty herbaceous species. Many of 
these are very fine : among which we may mention the 
pretty wood-anemone {A. nemorosa) and the double variety ; 
A. Appenina, with blue flowers ; A. narcissiflora ; A. Japon- 



140 THE ANEMONE. 

ica, and the white variety ; A. pusatilla, the well-known 
Pasque flower ; and A. vernalis. 

Of the varieties of A. coronaria and hortensis, the follow- 
ing are good : — 
Shakspeare, blue. 
Azur incomparable, blue. 
Cramoisi royal, scarlet. 
Feu superbe, scarlet. 
Grandeur Merveille, rose and white. ■ 
Sigh Admiral, scarlet. 
Josephine, scarlet. 
Ornement de la Nature, blue, fine. 
L'Fclair, scarlet. 

Queen of the Netherlands, white and rose. 
Hose surpassante, bright rose. 
Salvator, orange. 






X. 




THE OXALIS, IXIA, BABIANA, SPARAXIS, TRITONIA, 
GEISSORHIZA. 

HILE many of the bulbs 
of which we have hithero 
spoken are suitable for 
garden -culture, the sub- 
jects of our present chapter thrive only in the greenhouse. 
In England, however, they are planted in the open border, 
and survive in sheltered situations with little protection. 
But the flowers of all are very delicate, and liable to be 
injured by storms or changeable weather : therefore they are 
seen to much better advantage under glass, where, if well 
cared for, they make a splendid display. The culture of all 
the species mentioned in this chapter is the same. All 
bloom in early spring ; though many of the oxalis may be 

141 



142 THE OXALIS. 

had in flower at any season by forcing, and some few 
species naturally bloom in summer or early autumn. 

In potting these bulbs, and starting them into growth, 
one of the primary rules of bulb-culture must be observed ; 
that is, when the base of the bulb swells, or young roots 
begin to protrude, the bulb should be potted and watered. 
With a family so large as the oxalis, it is impossible to 
prescribe any general rule for potting ; though most of the 
species cultivated in our greenhouses require only the ordi- 
nary treatment of Cape bulbs, and, with the other subjects 
of this chapter, — ixias, babianas, tritonias, and other 
Cape bulbs of like nature, — need only to be potted in Octo- 
ber, in rich, light, sandy loam, in well-drained pots. After 
potting, the bulbs should have a gentle watering, and be kept 
in a cool, shady, airy place until they begin to grow : they 
should then be removed to a light, airy shelf, and be grown 
near the glass all winter, in full sunshine, to perfect a short, 
sturdy growth. Water should be freely supplied with the 
syringe to destroy red spider, with whom many of these 
plants are especial favorites. As soon as the flower-stem 
appears, a few waterings of weak liquid manure will be 
found beneficial. 

When the blossoms begin to expand, the pots may be 



THE OXALIS. 143 

removed to a less sunny and cooler situation, that the 
flowers may longer remain in perfection. Many species 
will need to have the flower-stems, and often the foliage, 
tied up to neat stakes, in order better to display the full 
beauty of the blossom. When the bloom is over, the foliage 
should be gradually ripened ; and, when half the leaf has 
turned yellow, the pots should be turned on their sides, and 
the bulbs allowed to remain dry until the season for replant- 
ing. Mice are very fond of some of these bulbs, and care 
must be taken to put them to rest in a place not disturbed 
by their ravages. 

THE OXALIS. 

This family is very numerous ; about one hundred species 
being enumerated. The mode of growth is very different, 
some being true bulbs, and thus coming immediately within 
the scope of our volume ; while others have tuberous, or rath- 
er thickened, fleshy roots, and are thus only mentioned here 
on the score of relationship. Many have a true stem, and 
produce the tuft of leaves and flowers from the top ; and 
this stem may be either above ground, or subterranean. 
Some species seem to combine the bulbous and tuberous 
nature, the subterranean stem producing little bulbs at the 



144 THE OXALIS. 

extremities of rootlets. The bulbs are composed of fleshy- 
scales, either loose or closely imbricate. 

Most of the species produce their flowers with the foliage ; 
but a few bloom first, and then mature the leaves. 

In some species, the new bulbs are produced at the end 
of long, straggling roots, the old bulb dying. Generally, on 
examination, a pot of oxalis will be found filled with strag- 
ling roots, producing bulbs at the ends, or sometimes pro- 
fusely along the sides, of the rootlets. 

Many have thick, fusiform roots, which break from the 
base of the bulbs, but which dry up and fall away when the 
season's growth is finished. 

The foliage ia generally petiolate, and much resembles 
clover, and has a sharp, sour taste ; whence the name of the 
species. The flowers are mostly yellow, red, pink, or white, 
and the various shades of these colors ; and are often fra- 
grant. They open in the sun, closing in dull weather and at 
night. 

Seed is not easily ripened ; and propagation is effected by 
the increase of bulbs, which takes place freely. We have 
some native species, one of which is an annual ; and the 
little oxalis which carpets our Northern woods ( 0. acetocella) 
is well known to every observant White-mountain tourist. 



THE OXALIS. 145 

Many of the oxalis make admirable window -plants, 
as they flower freely, and are remarkably free from in- 
sects. 

As all are of rather drooping, low habit, they are often 
effective as drooping plants ; and one of the smallest species 
(0. versicolor) is very effective for hanging baskets. 

Of the many species, we can only mention the follow- 
ing:— 

0. Boweii, or Boweana. — A species producing large, 
bright, rosy-red flowers during the whole autumn. The 
bulbs should be potted in the latter part of August, in 
rather large pots, six in a pot ; and will be in bloom by the 
first of October. 

0. cernua. — This is a pretty plant, bearing yellow flow- 
ers in March, and requiring the general treatment of Cape 
bulbs. 

0. flava. — This is a favorite window-plant. It should 
be potted in October, and will bloom from March to May. 
The foliage is neat and pretty ; and the yellow flowers, which 
are freely produced, are delightfully fragrant. There is a 
double variety, which does not bloom as freely as the 
species, and is not desirable except in collections. 

0. versicolor, — This is a charming plant. The bulbs 

10 



14G THE OXALIS. 






are very small, and should be planted in fine, light soil, 
four or five in a pot, about half an inch deep, in October. 
The plants will form a mass of foliage, and droop over the 
pot, producing a profusion of little blossoms, tubular in bud, 
but, in full sunshine, expanding fully ; the outside being 
crimson-red, and the inside creamy-white. 

O.florihunda. — A species w T ith short, fleshy stems, just 
serving to elevate the dense tufts of leaves and blossoms 
above the soil, and with herbaceous roots. The plant 
should be allowed to dry. off during the winter, and be 
bedded out in summer, when it will bloom profusely for 
several months. The flowers are rosy-pink, and the plant 
is a native of Chili. 

0. lasiandra and many of the other herbaceous species 
do well under the same treatment. 

0. luxula and the variety alba are very pretty plants, 
with foliage covering the pot, and large red or white flow- 
ers, produced singly on stalks springing from the bulb. Pot 
in sandy loam in September, and the plants will bloom from 
November to February. 

0. Deippii is a pretty pink, flowering species, the fleshy 
tap-roots of Avhich are often used as an esculent. 

The following species are worthy of cultivation : — 



THE IXIA. 147 

AUTUMN-BLOOMING. 

0. monophylla, Mauritiana, lobata, crenata, ambigua, Bra- 
ziliensis, variabilis, tubiflora, sulphurea, purpurata, rostrata, 
tricolor, dentata, fallax, furcata, caprina, 

WINTER AND SPRING BLOOMING. 

0. miniata, compressa, bipunctata, multiflora, cuprea, incar- 
nata, luteola, polyphylla, punctata, disticha. 

SUMMER-BLOOMING. 

0. macrophylla, caprina, cuneata, elongata, pentaphylla, 
flabellifolia. 

THE IXIA. 

These bulbs are all natives of the Cape of Good Hope. 
The family formerly included many other bulbs which have 
been separated from it. At present, the genus consists of 
about thirty species, which are distinguished from Sparaxis 
by not having a jagged sheath, " from Babiana by having 
a dry seed-pod instead of a berry, and from Tritonia by 
having the stamens inserted at the bottom of the petals 
instead of in the tube of the flower." The bulbs are small, 
and look so much alike, that care must be taken to distin- 



148 THE IXIA. 

guish the species by proper labelling. They require only to 
be planted in sandy loam, from four to eight bulbs, accord- 
ing to the size, in an eight-inch pot, and to have the general v 
treatment of Cape bulbs. They bloom in March, and, if 
well grown, make a splendid show. The different species 
are propagated by the natural increase of the bulbs. Seed- 
lings are easily raised. 

/. viridijiora. — This is one of the most charming plants 
we know. The color of the flowers — a peculiarly delicate 
and yet vivid, indescribable green, with a dark, black eye 
— produces an effect to which no words of ours can do 
justice. 

It is a strong-growing species, and blooms freely, but 
often fails to perfect bulbs as large as those planted. It 
can readily be imported, and is very cheap. 

I. erecta. — A fine species, with a long spike of white 
flowers, with a dark eye. It produces plenty of offsets, and, 
with the variety incarnata, should be in every collection. 

I. monadelpha. — A pretty, free-blooming species, having 
a peculiar, flattened bulb. The flowers are blue, with 
green eye, and variously banded. 

I. conica. — A lovely and very showy species, with orange 
flowers and crimson buds. As the flowers are very freely 



THE IXIA. 149 

produced, and very handsome, this species should be generally 
cultivated. 

I. maculata. — A very beautiful species, with flowers of 
white and brown, and much resembling I. viridiflora in 
habit. A variety ochroleuca, sometimes considered a spe- 
cies, has large, creamy- white flowers, with a brown centre, 
and long, slender tubes. 

These species are rather difficult to keep. 

I. scillaris. — A small species, with flowers varying from 
purple to white. It flowers very early, and should there- 
fore be potted in September. It is more tender than the 
species previously described. 

I. patens. — A species with bright-crimson flowers, and 
of easy culture in loam and sand. In England, the species 
is hardy enough to stand the winter, and probably would be 
hardy in the Southern States. A bed of such a plant 
would produce a most brilliant effect. 

We may also mention I. capitata, white, with blue centre ; 
I. crateroides, reddish yellow ; /. hybrida, white ; I. aristata, 
pink ; I. odorata., yellow ; I. crispa, bright pink. 

In fact, all the species are worth growing, and make good 
window-plants. It is, however, better to grow the plants in 
a pit or greenhouse, and, when in bloom, bring them into 



150 m THE BABIANA. 

the parlor, as the foliage is not handsome, and the only 
beauty of the plants consists in the brilliant blossoms. 

These remarks apply with equal force to Babianas, Trito- 
nias, and Sparaxis. Many fine seedling varieties of ixia 
have been recently raised, which are even more beautiful 
than the species. A small outlay will import a fine collec- 
tion of these showy plants, and would give great satisfac- 
tion to any amateur. It is strange that Cape bulbs are so 
little grown. 

THE BABIANA. 

The roots of these plants are solid corms, covered with 
hard, brown scales. A new corm forms every year from 
the centre of the old one, which forms a hard, dry shell be- 
neath it. These bulbs have very showy flowers, in form 
somewhat between an ixia and a gladiolus. 

They are not as hardy as ixias, and are very impatient of 
wet, especially during the season of rest. A light, sandy soil 
suits them well ; and, as the leaves are generally hairy and 
plaited, they are even more subject to attacks of red spider 
than the ixias. In general, however, they require much 
the same treatment, and a season of perfect rest, during 
which they must be kept very dry. They are propagated 



THE BABTANA. 151 

by offsets and seeds, the latter of which bloom the third 
season after planting. As window-plants they do well, but 
do not flower as strongly as in the greenhouse. 

There are about twenty species, all natives of the Cape ; 
among which we may enumerate 

B. rubro cyanea. — This plant is often sold by florists as 
an ixia, but is easily distinguished by its broad, plaited 
leaves. The flowers are among the most brilliant of the 
bulbous tribe, and present a combination of brilliant ultra- 
marine blue and dazzling crimson. The bulbs are small ; 
but each produces three or four flowers, which remain in 
perfection several days if kept in the shade. The plant is 
of easiest culture, requiring only the usual treatment of 
Cape bulbs. 

B. vUlosa. — This is a showy species, with bright-crimson 
flowers, freely produced in April. A large pot of this spe- 
cies is very effective in the greenhouse. 

B. stricta. — A pretty species, with lilac-and-white flowers. 

B. tubiflora. — A free-growing plant, with light or straw- 
colored flowers, — often reddish. This species has done 
better with us in the greenhouse than any except B. jjlicata. 

B. sulphurea. — A fine species, with very large-spreading, 
sulphur, cream-colored flowers. 



152 THE SPABAXIS. 

B. plicata. — A dwarf-growing species, producing an 
abundance of blue, fragrant flowers. 

We may also mention B. spathacea, purple flowers ; B. 
bicolor, blue and white ; B. angustifolia, blue, with choco- 
late centre ; B. sambucina, rich purple, fragrant flowers. In- 
deed, all the babianas are well worth growing ; and one can 
hardly make a mistake in planting them. 

THE SPARAXIS. 

These plants, in their flowers, bear a great resemblance to 
ixias ; and, indeed, only differ from them slightly botanically. 
The flowers are usually more showy ; but the plants thrive 
and bloom well under the same culture. The treatment after 
blooming, and the modes of propagation, are essentially the 
same. 

There are about a dozen species, all natives of the Cape 
of Good Hope. 

S. tricolor. — A very brilliant flower, of bands of yellow, 
black, and orange. It should be potted in October, in a 
compost of two parts sand and one part each of yellow loam 
and leaf-mould, and be regularly but moderately watered 
during the winter. When the flower-buds form in spring, 



THE SPARAXIS. 153 

the supply of water should be increased until the flowering 
season is over, when the bulbs should be gradually allowed 
to go to rest. There are varieties with red, white, and 
purple flowers. 

S. versicolor. — A species somewhat resembling the last ; 
the ground-color of the flowers, however, being crimson 
instead of orange. It is also hardier, as in England it 
stands the winter in the garden. 

S. grandiflora. — This species has from one to five flow- 
ers, purple inside, and whitish outside. There are two 
varieties, — Uliago, by some considered a species ; and stria- 
ta, the former with white and the latter with variegated 
flowers. 

All flower in spring, and require the same treatment as 
the other species. 

S. pendula. — This elegant species produces long, droop- 
ing spikes of purple flowers. In growth and habit, it is un- 
like all the other species. The spike is often four or five 
feet long, springing from a tuft of long, reedy leaves. The 
plant is a native of wet situations, and does best planted 
out in the greenhouse, and allowed to take care of itself. 
We have, however, grown it successfully in a pot, using a 
compost of turfy loam and sand. 



154 THE TRITONIA. 

Some of the other species are S. anemoneflora, white 
flowers ; S. Uneata, white and pink ; S. bulbifera, yellow ; 
S. stellaris, purple ; S. fragrans. yellow. 

Many of the sparaxis have the curious property of pro- 
ducing small bulbs in the axils of the leaves and on the 
joints of the stem : these bulblets, when ripe, may be 
planted, and in time produce flowering plants. 

THE TRITONIA. 

The members of this family differ strangely in appear- 
ance ; some much resembling an ixia, others again being 
like a babiana, some nearly approaching a gladiolus, while 
others resemble none of these. 

The plants are generally of dwarf growth, and rather 
more tender than their near allies the ixia and gladiolus. 
In growth, they are benefited by the usual treatment given 
to Cape bulbs of weak growth ; that is, the application of 
bottom heat to encourage the growth of roots before the 
tops become largely developed. 

A good plan is to plunge the pots in a weak hot-bed as 
soon as the bulbs are planted ; the secret being, to allow the 
temperature of the roots to be a few degrees higher than 
that of the foliage. 



THE TRITONIA. 155 

We extract from an English work a method of growing 
these Cape bulbs which has been very successful, and 
which might be practised in this country, certainly south of 
Philadelphia, without difficulty : — 

" Pot the bulbs in October, in light, turfy loam and sand, 
with good drainage. Prepare a bed of dry old tan, mixed 
with fresh hot litter from the stable, at least one foot deep 
below the level of the garden ; and place a large frame 
over it. In this plunge the pots : the more tender gladioli 
at the back, as being the stronger growers ; and ixias, spa- 
raxis, babianas, tritonias, in regular gradation to the front. 
Give air when the weather will admit ; being careful not to 
water so much as to induce damping off, and always by 
banking and covering with mats and shutters to exclude 
frost. The sparaxis, under this treatment, begin to show 
bloom about April, and will be succeeded by ixias, babianas, 
gladiolus, and tritonias, in succession. The plants should 
be all removed to the greenhouse to bloom. After the 
blooms have passed, replace them in the frame, continue wa- 
tering to perfect the foliage, and form bulbs for the 
ensuing season. Give full exposure to the sun until the 
leaves have died away, that the bulbs may become thor- 
oughly ripened." 



156 THE TRITONIA. 

There are about twenty-five species of tritonia, of which 
those most commonly grown are 

T. crocata. — This species is commonly known in green- 
houses as orange ixia, and is one of the most floriferous of 
Cape bulbs. It requires only to be potted, syringed for 
red spider, and regularly watered ; and, in April, is sure to 
give a profusion of its rich orange-flowers. 

It propagates rapidly by offsets and by seed, which comes 
true. 

T. crista. — The flowers are pale bluish color, and resem- 
ble a babiana. The plant does not flower until very late 
in the spring. 

T. rosea. — A handsome but delicate species with rosy 
flowers, having a deep pink tube. 

T. longiflora. — The flowers are dirty white, and, as the 
name indicates, have very long tubes : there are varieties 
with straw-color and yellow flowers. The species grows 
and flowers freely, and is, with the varieties, one of 
the most satisfactory of the family for greenhouse cul- 
ture. 

T. fucata. — A very showy plant with yellow and red 
flowers of a peculiar form. The species multiplies freely, 
but is difficult to flower. 



THE GEISSORHIZA. 157 

T. Hneata. — A pretty species with pale-yellow and 
orange flowers, finely pencilled with dark lines. 

T. squalida. — A lovely species, not uncommon in collec- 
tions, producing white-and-pink beautifully marked flowers. 
Other species are T. fenestrata, orange-flowers ; T. flava, 
yellow ; T. miniata, orange ; T. 'pallida, straw-color ; T. 
purpurea, purple ; T. Bochensis, cream-color ; T. securigera, 
brown ; T. deusta, reddish ; T. viridis, green • T. aurea, 
orange ; T. Capensis, white. T. aurea is now separated 
from this family, and called Grocosynia aurea. 




THE GEISSORHIZA. 



A small family of tender bulbs, formerly classed with 
ixia, mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and re- 



158 THE GEISSORHIZA. 

quiring the usual treatment of Cape bulbs, except that the 
soil in which they are grown should be very sandy. The 
plants are commonly called " tile-root," from the tile-like 
scales which cover the roots. None of the species are very 
common. The best are 

G. Bocheana. — A pretty little plant known as "plaid 
ixia." The bulb is small, but the flowers very brilliant; 
the colors being blue, white, and crimson. 

G. obtusata. — A larger-growing species with straw and 
buff flowers. 

G. vaginata — A very showy species, flowering in Au- 
gust. The flowers are yellow, tipped with dark purple or 
black. 

G. secunda. — A blue, flowered species, with a white 
variety. 

G. excisa. — A small-growing species known as Ixia 
excisa. The flowers are white, lined with pink and with 
a green centre, and open only in full sunshine. 

There are about half a dozen other species which have 
been introduced ; but they are rarely met with, and some are 
probably lost to cultivation. 







ESCRIPTION must fail to convey an idea 
of" the stately grandeur, the queenly purity, 
and graceful habit, of this beautiful flower. 
The lily is pre-eminently a garden-bulb ; there being very 
few, which, with some slight protection, will not bear a New- 
England winter, and many are among the hardiest garden- 
flowers. 

All lilies have scaly bulbs, and are propagated by offsets, 
by seed, by stem-bulbs in some cases, and by separating the 
scales of the bulb and planting each, scale in silver-sand, 
where it will soon make a small bulb. All the above 
methods, except by seed, are for the perpetuating old estab- 

159 



160 THE LILY. 

lished species or varieties : by seed alone*, new hybrid varie- 
ties are produced. The culture of the lily is very simple. 
Most of the species like a deep, rich soil, enriched with well- 
rotted manure ; but care must be taken that water does not 
stand round the roots in winter, as this often rots the bulbs. 
Many of the species like a sandy loam, and most are benefited 
when first planted by placing in the hole a handful of sand. 

The generally received opinion is that lilies should only 
be transplanted in the autumn. In our experience, however, 
they have done quite as well removed in early spring ; care 
being taken to keep the bulb from drying, and not to injure 
the young roots or shoots. In transplanting, the bulb should 
be kept out of the ground the shortest possible time. It is the 
drying process the bulbs have undergone which causes such 
loss in imported lilies ; more than one-half of them, in spite 
of every care, failing to come up the spring after planting. 

Lilies once planted should be disturbed as seldom as pos- 
sible, and only when rendered necessary by the increase of 
bulbs : for most species, unless propagation is the object, 
once in five years is often enough for the health of the plant. 
As the bulbs cannot be disturbed after planting, the prepara- 
tion of the bed becomes a matter of the first importance. 
The soil should be deep, that the plants may not suffer from 



THE LILY. 161 

drought ; and be enriched with a liberal quantity of well- 
rotted manure, which should be well worked in. Each 
autumn, a top-dressing of well -rotted manure should 
be carefully forked in between the rows ; and, on the ap- 
proach of winter, the bed should be covered with clean lit- 
ter or leaves, which covering should be removed in early 
spring. The bulbs should be planted from three to six 
inches deep, according to their size. 

Many of the lilies force well in the greenhouse, particu- 
larly L. candidum, speciosum, longiflorum, landfolium, and 
Japonicum ; but none are suitable for parlor culture. There 
are about seventy-five well-known species and varieties ; and 
new species are being discovered, and new hybrids produced, 
every year.* 

The characteristics of a good lily are as follow : — 

LILT. 

1. The plant should be only as high from the pot to the 
bottom flower as it is from the bottom flower to the top 
one. The leaves should be long, and plenty of them at bot- 
tom, and gradually shorten and lessen in number as they 
approach the bottom bloom. 

2. The individual bloom should be large, and composed 

1X * See " Garden Flowers." 






162 THE LILY. 

of broad petals reflexing in the form of a globe, without 
separation at the points, or forming gutters or uneven ribs 
in the petals, but showing a fair, round, even surface, and 
exhibiting none of the backs of the petals. 

3. The petals should be thick, rich in texture, free from 
notches, or puckers, of pure ground-color or white. The 
blooms should be on strong foot-stalks, the lower flower 
farther off the stem than the upper ; and there should not be 
less than seven in the truss, or spike, that should form a 
tapering head of flowers. 

4. The varieties speckled with the ruby-like spots should 
be of pure white ground, and the spots bright scarlet : those 
with pale rosy ground should have black spots ; and the 
more and the larger, the better. 

The species most commonly cultivated are 

L. candidum. — This is the old-fashioned white or 
Annunciation lily, one of the oldest inhabitants of the gar- 
den, but always a favorite, and a plant of which no garden 
can have too many. While thriving in common border- 
soil, this species grows and flowers with wonderful luxuri- 
ance in a richly prepared bed. In our own garden, such a 
bed was a splendid object during the past season. The bed 
was ten feet in diameter, excavated six feet deep in sandy 



THE LILY. 163 

soil, filled with rich loam and manure, and planted with 
fifty bulbs of this lily ; and the effect, when in bloom, was 
very fine. The species is a native of the Levant ; and there 
are varieties with double flowers, with striped and spotted 
flowers, and with foliage variegated with gold and silver 
markings. All are of value in a collection ; but none are to 
be compared with the species. 

L. bulbiferum. — This is the common orange-lily, hardy 
in any situation, propagated freely by bulblets. It need not 
be removed when once planted ; for it will take care of 
itself, and flower freely year after year. 

L. monadelphum. — The common yellow Caucasian lily 
is not as common as L. bulbiferum, but is equally hardy, 
and requires the same treatment. In growth, it resembles 
the martagon lilies, and has been an inhabitant of our gar- 
dens since 1800. 

L. peregrinum. — This very handsome species is a native 
of the Levant. It is perfectly hardy, and its white flowers 
are very showy ; but it is not common. 

L. croceum. — A very hardy species, with showy yellow 
flowers, a native of the south of Europe, growing freely in 
common garden-soil. 

L. Ganadense. — This, the species so common in rich 



164 THE LILY. 

meadows, producing drooping yellow flowers, is greatly- 
improved by cultivation ; the plant increasing in size and 
in the number of flowers. The bulbs should be trans- 
planted in autumn to a bed of peaty loam, where they may 
remain undisturbed for years. 

L. superbum. — This lily is not found wild in Southern 
New England ; but, in New York and the Northern States, 
is the common red drooping-lily of the meadows. In culti- 
vation, it is a magnificent plant ; often producing a spike 
with from twenty to thirty flowers. It requires the same 
treatment as the last species ; and, like it, has white creep- 
ing roots. 

L. Philadelphicum. — The common upright red lily of the 
pastures, producing one, rarely two or three, handsome red 
flowers, spotted with black. The bulb is small and white, 
and may be transplanted to the garden, where it grows vig- 
orously. The soil should be rather light. 

L. Catesbaei. — The Southern red lily much resembles 
the last ; but the color is lighter. It is plentiful south of 
Philadelphia ; and has even been found wild in Massachu- 
setts, where it proves hardy in the garden. 

L. martagon. — Of the Turk's-cap lily there are a dozen 
varieties, with white, reddish, and purple flowers and 



THE LILY. 165 

whorled leaves. They are all of coarse habit, but look 
well in the garden. The individual flowers are small ; but 
many are produced on the spike. Most of the species are 
hardy ; though, in New England, those with white flowers 
require winter protection of leaves or litter, as they are 
sometimes killed. 

L. Pyrenaicum. — A fine species much resembling the 
martagon, but with yellow flowers, and leaves not whorled. 
A native of the Pyrenees, and hardy. 

L. Chcdcedonicum. — A beautiful flower, commonly called 
the scarlet martagon, generally hardy, and only requiring 
to be planted in good soil. A native of Hungary. 

L. longiflorum. — This splendid lily is hardy enough to 
stand a New-England winter. The flowers are white, six 
to nine inches long, and very fragrant. The bulbs should 
be planted four inches deep in a well-prepared bed, which 
should be covered during the winter with six inches of tan 
or clean litter. 

L. ipumilum. — A lovely little species with red flowers ; a 
native of Siberia ; hardy, but not common. 

L. tenui folium. — A pretty species with drooping red 
flowers and fine-cut foliage ; a native of the Caucasus ; 
hardy, but rare. 



166 THE LILY. 

L. atrosanguineum. — A species with orange-red flowers, 
from Japan ; perfectly hardy in a light soil. 

L. Kamschatkense. — A small-growing species with purple 
flowers, hardy. 

L, pomponium. — A well-known red lily, a native of 
Siberia, and long an inhabitant of the garden. Both 
the species and a double variety are worthy a place in 
the border. 

L. speciosum and lancifolium. — These and the many hy- 
brid varieties are the well-known Japan lilies of the garden, 
once considered greenhouse species, but now known to be 
perfectly hardy. The flowers are too well known to need 
description ; and, indeed, no words can do justice to their 
beauty. The hybrid varieties of the last five years far 
exceed the species in beauty, and are now so cheap as to 
be obtained by all. These plants delight in a rich deep 
soil ; and, when well grown, are splendid objects in the 
garden. 

L. Japonicum. — This beautiful species is hardly hardy 
in New England. The flower is large and bell-shaped, 
the petals curving upward at the point. In the greenhouse, 
it blooms well. 

L. aurcdum. — This, the most magnificent lily known to 




THE LILY. 1G7 

cultivation, is not as hardy as L. lancifolmm, and more 
liable to disease. Bulbs left out in the open ground during 
the winter will come up and do well at first ; but, after the 
flower-buds are formed, they are very apt to die out, the 
leaves turning yellow, and the whole plant rapidly failing. 
This is not uncommon, even when they are kept in pots 
and sheltered from severe frosts. The plant requires the 
house treatment of L. lancifolium, but may be bedded out 
in the border in summer. The flower is very large, white, 
with deep yellow bands down the petals. There seem to be 
varieties, differing in the intensity of the bands : the stalks 
are many-flowered. The accounts of its size, beauty, and 
fragrance, are not exaggerated. The credit of introducing 
this splendid lily belongs to New England. It was 
brought from Japan in 1860 by F. Gordon Dexter, Esq., 
who placed it in the hands of Francis Lee, Esq., by whom 
it was bloomed in the summer of 1861. In the spring of 
1862, Mr. Lee transferred it to Francis Parkman, Esq., a 
zealous amateur, who exhibited it at the Massachusetts 
Horticultural Exhibition on the 8th of July of the same 
year, and described it in " The Gardener's Monthly." It 
was bloomed in England this same year (1862) for the first 
time. 



168 



THE LILY. 



L. venustum. — This beautiful species is often imported 
under the names of L. testaceum, superbum, and peregrinum ; 
and sending for any of these to Holland will bring a good 
supply of L. venustum; and, indeed, one can scarcely have 
too many. The plant is hardy, grows well in any garden- 
soil, and produces large spikes of nodding buff or creamy 
orange flowers. It likes a rich soil not too wet. 







The greenhouse species are of easy culture in loam and 
leaf-mould with a little sharp sand. They require large 
pots ; plenty of water, light, and air, while in growth ; and 



THE LILY. 169 

are benefited by waterings of weak manure-water. Among 
the tender species may be mentioned L. giganteum, a 
very fine species from the Himalayas, with large white 
flowers ; L. roseum, with rosy-purple flowers, from India ; 
L. Tlwmjpsonianum, an Indian species, with rosy flowers ; 
L. Wallichianum, from Nepaul, with greenish-white flow- 
ers ; and L. concolor, sl native of China, with brilliant red 
flowers. 

There are many other lilies in cultivation, and many 
hybrids, to which it would be difficult to assign their true 
position. Later years have shown many to be hardy 
which were once reputed tender, and the future may show 
further progress in the same direction. 

The different species and varieties hybridize freely ; and 
there is no flower which presents greater attractions for 
the skill of the botanist or the experiments of the 
amateur. 




XII. 

THE FRITTELARIA, FERRARIA, ALLIUM, ORNITHOGALUM. 
THE FRITTELAKIA. 

ARLY in the spring, the dark 
blunt shoots of the crown im- 
|^\ perial (jF 7 . imperialis), pushing 
from the ground, give promise 
of the crown of showy blos- 
soms which a few weeks will develop. And, indeed, 
in few flowers is the growth more rapid. Each sunny 
day the plant grows apace, and soon unfolds its crown 
of flowers, surmounted by the tuft of green foliage. 
The crown imperial, which was the most ornamenta 
of the frittclarias, has been separated from the genus, 
and now forms a new family called Petilium, the species 

being P. imperiale; but, as it is popularly classed with 

170 



THE FRITTELARIA. 171 

frittelaria, we have thought best to describe it under that 
family. 

All the frittelarias do best iu a deep, rich soil, and 
are much benefited by top-dressings of well-rotted manure. 
All the crown imperials are hardy, requiring no protec- 
tion in winter : in summer they do not like a soil which 
becomes very dry, as the bulbs suffer from drought. Many 
of the smaller species of frittelaria, especially those with 
white flowers, are less hardy, and in New England require 
winter protection. Like the crown imperial, they are im- 
patient of drought ; and none should be long kept out of 
the ground when transplanted. All the species propagate 
freely by offsets, and most ripen seed freely, which should 
be sown and treated like other seedling bulbs. Seedlings 
bloom the third year. 

All the species may remain in the ground undis- 
turbed for years, where they soon form large masses, 
and are very effective. 

All bloom in May, and contrast well with tulips and 
the later hyacinths. 

F. (Petilium) imperialis. — This species is a native of 
Persia, but has been an inmate of the garden since 
1596. The bulbs are large, and have a rank, un- 



172 THE FRITTELARIA. 

pleasant smell, which, when the plants are in rapid 
growth, is distributed over the whole plant, so that 
the breeze blowing over a bed of crown imperials is 
by no means pleasantly perfumed. The flowers, how- 
ever, are fragrant : they are remarkable for the drops 
of honey which stand in the petals of the flower, and 
which shine with peculiar lustre. This property is 
possessed in common by all the family, but in the 
greatest degree by this species. 

The ovaries, after the fading of the flower, become 
erect, and produce abundance of seed. 

This species should be planted six inches deep, in 
a very rich soil. The stems appear early in spring, 
but die away by the last of June ; and their place 
may be occupied by bedding-plants. These plants look 
well in a large bed composed of mixed varieties, of 
which those with golden and silver striped foliage are 
the linest-foliaged plants of early spring. 

There are many varieties, of which the single red, yel- 
low, and those with variegated foliage, are the best. The 
double varieties are by no means as good as the single. 

F. Persica. — This very handsome plant is as hardy 
as the crown imperial, and requires the same culture. 



THE FERRARIA. 173 

When well grown, it is very showy ; for, although the 
individual flowers are small and dull-colored, they are 
produced on a long spike in great profusion. 

F. meleagris. — This is the well-known guinea-hen 
flower, and is a native of England. The bulb is 
small, white, and flat, and produces one large nodding 
flower. The species is perfectly hardy, and requires 
only the same care as a crocus, except that it does 
not need frequent replanting. There are other species, 
of which we may mention F. latifolia and tenella, which 
resemble F. meleagris, F. lutea with yellow, and F. 
ohliqua with dark-purple flowers. 

THE FERRARIA. 

These are Cape bujbs, and are worthy of culture 
by the amateur, though the flowers are dull-colored. 
They require to be potted in October, in sandy loam, 
with a little peat, moderately watered during growth, 
and kept perfectly dry when at rest. They flower in 
early spring, and then immediately lose their foliage. 

The plants are all dwarf, and the bulbs small: in 
growth, they need a light, airy situation. 



174 THE ALLIUM. 

They increase freely by offsets, and also ripen seed, 
which may be sown when ripe, or kept until the fol- 
lowing spring. In England they survive the winter, 
planted in a warm, dry border. 

The species are, — 

F. antherosa, with green and brown flowers. 

F. angustifolia, with brown flowers. 

F. uncinata. — A curious species, with green flowers, 
having a bright-blue mark in the centre. 

F. atrata. — Very brilliant purple flowers. 

F. divaricata. — Flowers purple and green. 

F. elongata. — Dark-purple flowers ; a native of Monte- 
video, flowering in July. 

F. dbtusifolia. — This is the largest species, growing 
eighteen inches high, and throwing out branches. It 
blooms in summer, and should be treated like summer- 
blooming bulbs. It is showy, and produces a profusion 
of brown flowers. 

F. undulata. — A pretty species, with green and brown 
flowers. 

THE ALLIUM. 

Although not suitable flowers for bouquets or for 
parlor culture, many of the onions (allium) are very 



THE ALLIUM. 175 

ornamental in the border. Indeed, the family, probably 
from prejudice, has been much neglected, when many far 
less showy plants have found favor. 

Many of the species are very ornamental, and are 
perfectly hardy in common garden-soil, requiring no 
particular care, and yearly producing masses of showy 
flowers. 

Out of some fifty species, we can recommend the 
following for the garden. All increase readily by oifsets. 

A. moly. — A low-growing species, which in early June 
produces a mass of golden-yellow flowers. A native of 
the south of Europe, and one of the hardiest species. 

A. coeruleum. — A pretty species, with bright-blue 
flowers ; a native of Russia, and hardy. 

A. senescens. — Flowers purple. 

A, azureum. — Blue flowers. 

A. angulosum. — Light purple or pink flowers. 

A. longiflorum. — Very dark purple. 

A. Neapolitanum. — A fine species, with a large umbel 
of white flowers. Rather tender, and requiring green- 
house treatment. There are many tender species, with 
showy flowers, which may be easily grown where room 
can be given them. 



176 



THE ORNITHOGALUM. 



THE ORNITHOGALUM. 



A family of very pretty bulbs, containing about 
dozen hardy and some fifty tender species, all familiarly 
known as " star of Bethlehem." The prevailing color 
of the flowers is white ; but many are marked with 
green, and some are yellow. The hardy species require 
the same treatment as a tulip, but may be left in the 
border for years undisturbed. They will then flower 
regularly every year, and increase largely by offsets. 

The tender species require the usual treatment of Cape 
bulbs ; and, in the greenhouse, flower from May to July. 
These plants are natives of Europe, Africa, and America ; 
but a large proportion come from the Cape of Good 
Hope. Among hardy species we may mention 

0. umhellatum. — This pretty species is very common in 
gardens. The flowers are silvery-white, green outside, and 
open only in sunshine. They are produced in great abun- 
dance, and have a very pleasing effect. The species multi- 
plies rapidly by offsets, and, having escaped from gardens, 
seems disposed to become naturalized. 

0. fimbriatum. — A species with bluish-white flowers, 
blooming in early spring. A native of the Crimea. 



THE ORNITHOGALUM. 177 

0. Narbonense. — A small-flowered and not very hand- 
some species, the blossoms being small and straggling : 
only desirable in a collection. 

0. Pyrenaicum. — A green-flowered species of little 
beauty. 

0. nutans. — A pretty species, with drooping, white 
flowers ; hardy if protected by leaves during the winter. 

0. pyramidale. — A fine species, with a spike of white 
flowers in June. The foliage is handsome, and appears 
very early in spring, followed by the flower in June. 

0. bulbiferum, comosum, montanum, and marginatum, often 
prove hardy. Many of the tender species are very beautiful, 
and should always find place in a collection of Cape bulbs. 

0. niveum has small snow-white flowers and grassy leaves. 

0. revolutum. — An elegant species, with rich foliage 
and showy flowers, which are white, with a rich yellow 
centre, in a conical raceme. 

0. corymbosum. — A native of South America, with 
large, white, fragrant flowers. 

0. conicum. — Flowers pure white, very large ; native 
of the Cape of Good Hope. 

0. lacteum. — A fine species, producing an abundance of 

rich white flowers. 
12 



178 THE ORNITHOGALUM. 

0. Arabicum. — This handsome plant is not uncommon 
in collections. The flowers are large, whitish, with a dark 
centre. It requires a very sandy soil. 

0. aureum. — A beautiful species, with yellow flowers, 
but of somewhat difficult culture ; not growing freely or 
flowering well. It requires sandy loam, but often remains 
dormant two years before sending up its foliage. 

0. thyrsoides. — A fine plant, with yellow flowers, some- 
what resembling the last, but of very much easier growth. 
The plant is a native of the Cape, and only requires planting 
in sandy loam, and the usual culture of Cape bulbs. A fine 
variety, flavescens, is of deeper color ; also a native of the 
Cape, but introduced fifty years later than the species. 

Many of the ornithogalums have insignificant flowers, 
and are not worthy the room they would occupy in the 
greenhouse. 

Most of the species have the property of continuing to 
expand their flowers when the spike is cut, and placed in 
water, sometimes for several weeks, which renders them 
valuable for parlor decoration. This is particularly the 
case with 0. pyramidale, 0. caudatum, and 0. sulphureum. 




ROM the latter part of July, and during 
the month of August, up to the time of the 
early frosts, the bed of gladiolus is the 
most showy portion of the flower-garden. 
But all these which we commonly grow are the offspring 
of two or three species, and are mostly hybrids ; being 
varieties, and not species. There are, however, about fifty 
distinct species, many of them among the most beautiful of 
Cape bulbs, and requiring the culture usually given to that 
class. They are, however, very rarely in cultivation, 
though the reason would be difficult to find ; for a more 
showy family, or one of easier culture, cannot be found 
among bulbous plants. ifa 



180- THE GLADIOLUS. 

There are, however, two gladiolus, natives of Europe 
and Asia, which are hardy, and only require to be planted 
in common soil in the bulb-border about two inches deep, 
where they will flower, if undisturbed, for years, and 
rapidly increase by offsets. 

G. communis. — A native of the south of Europe, and 
very common in gardens. The flowers are dull reddish- 
purple, produced on one side of a short stalk. The plant 
is perfectly hardy, and increases rapidly by offsets. There 
are varieties with white and flesh-colored flowers, which are 
desirable. While a clump of this species is very pretty, the 
flowers are too small and dull-colored to make it very effec- 
tive in the garden. Its great recommendation is its hardiness. 

G. Byzantium. — This species, as its name implies, is a 
native of the region near Constantinople. The flowers 
much resemble those of G. communis, but are larger, are 
produced on both sides of the stalk, and have yellow stripes 
down the lower petals. The species is hardy, and requires 
only common garden-culture, but does not increase readily. 
Both this and G. communis need a sunny situation to bloom 
well. 

Of other fine species, many of which are hardy in 
England, but with us are grown in the greenhouse, bloom- 






THE GLADIOLUS. 181 

ing in June and July, we may enumerate a few; only 
premising, that, in pot-culture, the gladiolus requires a 
rather large pot, with light, rich soil, good drainage, and 
plenty of water when in growth, with frequent syringings 
and spongings to keep off the red spider, which particularly 
infests this plant. The bulbs should be planted at least 
three inches deep, if of large size, as the new bulb is formed 
on top of the old one ; and the plants should have a light, 
airy position, to prevent them from becoming drawn. 

G. cardinalis. — A common but very handsome species, 
with scarlet flowers, marked with a white spot on each petal. 
From this species many fine varieties have been raised, as it 
hybridizes freely with many of the tender kinds. Both 
species and varieties are very desirable. 

G. cochleatus. — A curious species, with stiff leaves, and 
white flowers stained with red, and having a peculiarly spoon- 
shaped lip ; whence the name. A native of the Cape, flower- 
ing in March, but not common. 

G. versicolor. — A showy plant, the colors of which are 
said to change at sunset. It is a native of the Cape, and 
rather rare in collections. 

G. suavolens. — A pretty species, of dwarf growth, with 
pale-yellow, fragrant flowers. 



182 THE GLADIOLUS. 

G. recurvus. — A very ornamental species, with violet 
flowers tinged with yellow, and very fragrant. The stem 
produces two to five flowers, " which, when they first 
expand, are yellow, so dotted over with very small violet- 
blue spots, that they look quite blue at a distance. In 
this state, the flowers are very beautiful. In the course 
of two or three days, however, the dots disappear, and 
the whole flower becomes a pale and somewhat dull 
violet-blue." 

It is a native of the Cape, and was first grown in Eng- 
land in 1760, being raised from seed. 

G. cameus. — A fine species, with blush flowers, marked 
with crimson and white. 

G. hlandus. — A species resembling the last, but with 
white flowers slightly stained with red. 

Many fine hybrids have been produced between this spe- 
cies and G. cardinalis. 

G. albidus. — A fine species, with flowers nearly pure 
white. 

G. ramosus. — There is some question whether this plant 
is a hybrid or a true species. The plant is tall and of 
sturdy growth, producing a branching spike of rosy-red 
flowers, the inferior petals marked with darker shades. It 



THE GLADIOLUS. 183 

sometimes does well planted out in the spring, but is infe- 
rior in beauty to the fine hybrids of G. Gandavensis. 

G. concolor. — A pretty species, with yellow flowers, 
which are fragrant towards evening. The flowers vary in 
number from two to eight, and are produced on the same 
side of the spike. 

G. viperatus. — A singular plant, with greenish - gray 
flowers, with brown and dark stripes. The species is very 
desirable from the peculiar color and the fragrance of the 
flowers. 

G. Golvelli. — A fine hybrid, produced in 1823 by cross- 
ing G. concolor with G. cardinalis, and still maintaining its 
place in collections. The flowers are scarlet, marked with 
purple, produced on a close spike, and are fragrant. It 
requires the same treatment as its parents. 

We may also mention as desirable G. alatus, Algoensis, 
and Namaquensis (sometimes considered varieties of ala- 
tus) , brevifolius, trichonemifolius, tristis, Watsonius, recurvus, 
Millerii, gracilis, edulis, and cuspidatus. 

All these could probably be grown in this country under 
the frame-culture mentioned in Chapter X., and would 
well repay the care required. Most of them are moder- 
ately hardy, and in the greenhouse should have a cool, airy 



184 THE GLADIOLUS. 

situation. We are inclined to believe that careless culture, 
rather than any difficulty of a more serious kind, is the 
reason we so seldom see any of this beautiful class in col- 
lections. 

We now come to the more hardy species, for which we 
can o-ive no better cultural directions than are laid down in 
an article written by us a year ago for " The Horticultu- 
rist." 

Our garden gladiolus are mostly hybrids from G. Nata- 
lensis and G. floribundus^ or oppositiflorus, with a little of the 
blood of G. cardinalis and ramosus in some of the fine vari- 
eties. They are commonly known, in gardeners' parlance, 
as " G-andavensis hybrids," from the first hybrid raised, 
and differ much in habit and form from any of the species 
we have before described. 

The name Gladiolus, from the Latin, is a true diminutive 
from gladius, " a sword," and therefore means a little sword : 
its reference is to the shape of the leaves of the plant ; 
and the same is found in the common name, " sword lily." 
The name is generally incorrectly pronounced gladiolus, 
with the accent on the o. Following the analogy of the 
Latin, the word should be gladiolus, the accent on the i, 
leaving* the penult short ; a far more euphonious word. 



THE GLADIOLUS. 185 

Gladiolus floribundus, or opposvtiflorus, is a native of the 
Cape of Good Hope, and was introduced to English gardens 
about the year 1788. It is a well-known species, of easiest 
culture, and will, even in New England, sometimes survive 
the winter in the open ground. The best mode is to take 
up the bulbs, which are small, soon after the frost has 
killed the leaves, and preserve them in a cool, dry cellar, 
free from frost, until spring. The flowers are produced 
abundantly on opposite sides of the stem (whence the 
names), and are of a whitish pink, with purple or lake 
markings. 

Gladiolus Natalensis, or psittacinus, was introduced in 
1829. It is a plant of sturdy habit, flowers scarlet and 
yellow, mottled ; too well known to need particular descrip- 
tion. Although a native of the hot region of Port Natal, it 
is often found hardy ; and in England, and some sections of 
our country, is perfectly so ; the bulb requiring only to be 
surrounded by sand to prevent its rotting in the winter. 

While G. floribundus is still commonly cultivated, G. Na- 
talensis, having been long since surpassed in habit and 
color by hundreds of hybrids, is entirely neglected, and is 
rarely met with ; and few indeed would imagine that the 
introduction of this now-despised species threw the whole 



186 THE GLADIOLUS. 

horticultural world into a fever of excitement, and that the 
bulbs commanded immense prices. 

These being the original species, the first hybrid was G. 
Gandavensis, so called from the town of Ghent. Its origin is 
obscure ; the late Hon. and Rev. William Herbert, the best 
authority on bulbs, declaring it impossible it should be a 
hybrid between the two species mentioned above, as, with 
all his skill in hybridizing, he had never been able to cross 
those two species. 

Be this as it may, certain it is that to G. Gandavensis 
we owe all our fine hybrids ; this variety crossing freely 
with all other varieties and some of the species, the seed- 
lings sporting very much. 

The color of the flowers of the variety is scarlet-red, with 
deep or light yellow blotches on inferior petals. It is a 
showy plant, and, although excelled by hundreds of seed- 
lings, is worthy of cultivation. 

GENERAL TREATMENT. 

The bulbs should be planted as soon as the ground is 
fairly dried in the spring and all danger of frost is over. 
If deeply planted, a surface-frost does no injury. Plantings 
may be made every two weeks, until the middle of June, for 



THE GLADIOLUS. 187 

a succession of bloom. Set the bulb from two to four 
inches deep, according to the size (we have found deep plant- 
ing advantageous in dry seasons) ; and cover lightly with 
pulverized soil free from stones, pressing it gently down 
with the palm of the hand. The plants will appear in 
about ten days, and only require to be kept free from weeds : 
a light hoeing occasionally is beneficial for keeping the 
ground open, and allowing air and moisture to penetrate. 
Do not water, unless in very severe drought, when the plants 
are dying (except in the case of small bulbs, which are 
often lost by drying up). Watering tends to bring both new 
bulbs and roots to the surface, and is injurious. 

When the plants are about four inches high, they should 
each be tied to a neat, light stake, which should be of such 
a height as to allow the whole bloom of the spike to project 
above it : two feet six inches is a good length. As the plant 
grows and the flower-spike pushes, new ties should be given, 
as much danger is to be apprehended from violent winds or 
heavy rains. If we do not desire to save seed, we should 
cut off the flower-stalk as soon as the bloom is past. When 
the frost has killed the leaves, or before, if the leaves, by 
turning yellow, show the ripening of the bulb, the bulb 
should be taken np, dried rapidly in full sunlight, the new 



188 THE GLADIOLUS. 

bulbs separated from the old, and the flowering bulbs (the 
stalk being cut off about an inch from the crown of the 
bulb) and the bulblets (which on some varieties are plenti- 
fully produced) put up in paper-bags carefully labelled. 
During the winter, the bulbs should be preserved in a dry, 
cool cellar free from frost. 

SOIL. 

A rich light soil is best adapted to the plant. Our prac 
tice has been to dig into the beds late in the autumn a quan- 
tity of well-rotted (at least two years') manure (cow-manure 
is preferable to any other) ; then in the spring, just before 
planting, dig the bed again, and pulverize the soil well. In 
a deep clayey loam with clay subsoil, the plants seldom pro- 
duce fine flowers. A gravel subsoil seems to suit the plant. 
Our finest beds are where was formerly a pitch-pine wood. 

SEED. 

Most of the hybrids ripen seed freely ; but no dependence 
can be placed upon its producing the parent : indeed, for it to 
do so is the exception, and not the rule. As soon as the 
seed is ripe, which is known by the bursting of the capsule, 
it should be gathered, and may at once be sown in a frame 






THE GLADIOLUS. 189 

or greenhouse, or carefully dried aud preserved until the 
spring. The seed retains its germinating property about a 
year. 

SEEDLINGS. 

Almost every seed will produce a plant. If sown as soon 
as ripe, say in September, the plants soon appear, looking 
like small blades of grass : they should be rapidly grown in 
heat. About the first of March, they will die down : rest 
should be given them, by withholding water, until about the 
first of June. The little bulblets, which will be about the 
size of peas, should then be replanted, in boxes, about three- 
quarters of an inch apart : water moderately. They will 
grow all summer, dying down about October : give a rest 
until January ; then repot, an inch apart, and grow until 
March ; rest again until June ; plant in beds of finely pul- 
verized soil in the open air, and the larger proportion will 
bloom in September. 

This rapid growth can be attained only where there are 
greenhouse facilities. Ordinarily, the seed is sown in a box 
or pot, set in a frame in the spring : the plants die down in 
the autumn ; are wintered in the box in the cellar ; the next 
spring, are planted in a prepared bed ; and, following the 
same process, bloom the third year. 



190 THE GLADIOLUS. 



PRESERVATION OF VARIETIES. 



As a bulb worth five dollars cannot, in the dry state, be 
distinguished from one worth five cents, great care must be 
taken to preserve varieties true to the name. For this, the 
use of wooden labels, with the name written in black-lead, is 
to be discouraged, as, aside from the danger of misplacing, 
the name is often rendered illegible by the weather. We 
have as yet seen no better way than our own, by which we 
have preserved some hundreds of distinct varieties without 
a mistake. The names are written with chemical ink on 
both sides of a zinc label (such as are ordinarily sold for 
fruit-trees) : these are attached to chestnut-stakes two and a 
half feet long, pointed at the lower end, and bored at the 
upper by a zinc wire (iron rusts, lead is too pliable, copper 
eats the zinc). 

In planting, we set the stake with the name attached when 
we plant the bulb : as the plant grows, it is tied to the stake ; 
and, in autumn, stake and bulb come up together. When 
the bulb is drv enough to ba<*, the name from the stake is 
first written on the bag ; then the bulb is cut off, cleaned, and 
bagged, the stalk thrown away, and the stake put away for 
the next year. All this takes time, and is troublesome ; but 



■ 



THE GLADIOLUS. 191 

the satisfaction of knowing that all varieties are true to the 
name more than compensates. If this mode were followed 
by growers, there would be no such general complaint as now 
exists, of poor kinds being imposed for good varieties. Our 
experience is, that, in this respect, the most culpable care- 
lessness prevails, which yearly grows worse as varieties 
increase. 

PROPAGATION BY BULBLETS. 

We have said that seeds seldom produce the parent : how, 
then, can we multiply any variety in quantity? By bulblets. 
When we take up the bulb in the autumn, we see at the base 
of the root more or less numerous buuches of black or white 
hard bulbs, varying in size from a marble to a mustard-seed. 
These, if we can get them to grow, produce the original 
variety. Collect these carefully, bag and label them, and 
lay them aside for eighteen months ; then sow them in the 
open border in a prepared bed : they will come up in ten 
days (not one will fail) , and form bulbs which will bloom the 
next summer. If, however, you plant them the next spring 
after gathering (instead of keeping them over a season), not 
one in a hundred will come up. 



192 THE GLADIOLUS. 

DISEASES AND ENEMIES. 

A cold, damp soil, causing rot, is the greatest difficulty in 
gladiolus culture : this may be in a degree remedied by 
planting the bulb in sand. Rust is a disease of which the 
cause is yet unexplained : the whole plant turns a dirty 
spotted yellow, and the bulb is found to be eaten with white 
spots. As soon as the disease is observed, dig up the bulb, 
and throw it away. It seems more prevalent in clamp soils, 
appearing just as the plant shows bloom. A green cut- 
worm often eats off the tender shoots in early spring : the 
only remedy is to examine the base of each shoot at night, 
and kill the worm. The skin covering the bulb is some- 
times infested with mealy-bug : immediately burn every 
bulb so infested, let the variety be choice as it may. 

MULTIPLICATION OF VARIETIES. 

This is an evil which will soon be felt. All the world are 
raising seedling gladioli. At least one-half of the seedlings 
are equal to or better than old-named varieties. Each 
grower names his favorites ; and we are in danger of 
having a confusion of synonymes which will rival the 
palmiest days of pear-culture. How this can be remedied 



THE GLADIOLUS. 193 

other than by a gladiolus convention is an interesting 
question. 

We have said our native seedlings are better than 
named varieties : we have reason to rejoice it is so, and we 
see no reason for importing gladioli when we can raise far 
better varieties than we can import. 

The following are some of the finest varieties : — 

El Dorado, Solfaterre, Lord Campbell, Vulcain, Pluton, 
La Quintanie, Rembrandt, Madame de Vatry, Goliah, Ju- 
non, Vesta, Sulphureus, Hebe, Penelope, Calypso, Madam 
Binder, Mile. Souchet, Mrs. Vilmorin, La Poussin, Count 
de Morny, Achille, Brenchleyensis, Anatole Levanneur, 
Imperatrice, Ceres, Princess Clothilde, Osiris, Dr. Lindley, 
Napoleon III., Mars. 

The following varieties are very poor, and not worth 
growing, except for massing : — 

Mons. Georgeon, Charles Rouillard, Madame Pele, Ma- 
dame Paillet, Keteleerii, Mrs. Couder, Gil Bias, Roseus, 
Isabella, Burgraff d'Osterland, Mons. Blouet, Robert Blum, 
Charles Michel, Dr. Margolin. 

These lists might be infinitely increased, and the day is 
not far distant when a large proportion of imported varieties 
will be thrown out of cultivation by American seedlings. 

13 



194 THE TIGRIDIA. 



THE TIGRIDIA. 



This is a beautiful family, consisting of only two species 
and two varieties. The plants are very tender, being 
natives of Mexico ; and will not bear the least frost. They 
need a deep, light, rich soil, free from stones. The bulbs 
are small, but in growth throw down a fleshy tap-root to 
a considerable distance. If the ground is not naturally 
rich, an addition of well-rotted stable-manure will add 
greatly to the size of the plant and the brilliancy of the 
flower. 

The bulbs should be planted, when the ground gets warm 
in the spring, in beds or clumps : the plants will soon ap- 
pear, and bloom in August and September. After the frost 
has killed the foliage, the bulbs should be taken up, thor- 
oughly dried, and preserved in a warm, dry cellar, out of 
the way of mice, until time for planting. 

They increase rapidly by offsets, and also ripen seed 
freely. 

The flowers are very brilliant, but transient, lasting only 
one day ; but several are produced from the same stalk. 

T. pavonia. — The colors are bright scarlet, spotted with 
yellow and brown. Introduced in 1796. 



THE WATSONIA. 195 



• 



T. concliiflora. — Flowers orange -yellow, spotted with 
brown ; not so strong or free-flowering as T. pavonia. 

T. speciosa is a hybrid between these two, partaking more 
of the nature of T. pavonia, and of a dull, red color. 

T. Wheelerii is also a hybrid, resembling T. concliiflora 
more closely. 

The plant sometimes seen in florists' catalogues under the 
name of T. coerulea is Phalocallis plumbea. 

THE WATSONIA. 

The plants composing this family were formerly known 
as gladiolus, to which some of the species are nearly allied. 
They are rather tall-growing plants, with showy flowers, 
and of easy culture in light, rich soil. In England they 
are hardy, and receive the same treatment given to Cape 
gladioli. With us they require a greenhouse and the usual 
culture of Cape bulbs. The large-growing species should 
have large pots, and all require careful attention to drain- 
age. They propagate freely by offsets, and also ripen seed. 
From some twenty-five species we may name 

W. humilis. — A dwarf and very desirable species, with 
large, rose-colored flowers. 



196 THE SYNNOTIA. 

W. Meriana. — A beautiful species, with dark, flesh- 
colored flowers. 

W. fulgida. — A tall-growing, handsome species, with 
bright-red flowers ; produced abundantly in September. 

W. brevifolia. — Flowers bright orange. 

W. rosea. — Bright, rosy flowers ; a tall, handsome plant. 

W. marginata. — - A noble species, with large, salver- 
shaped, pink flowers. A native of low, sandy hills at the 
Cape of Good Hope, where it is very abundant. 

W. punctata, plantaginia, and sjoicata are singular plants, 
with flowers having little resemblance to the rest of the 
family. 

All the Watsonias are subject to the attacks of red spider, 
which must be carefully guarded against. All are hand- 
some, and should be grown where there is room. 

THE SYNNOTIA. 

A family of only three species of Cape bulbs, of easy 
culture in sandy loam, and requiring only the usual culture 
of Cape bulbs in the greenhouse. They are not handsome 
enough to be generally cultivated, when we have so many 
more showy species. The flowers somewhat resemble 
gladiolus in appearance. 



THE ANOMATHECA. 197 

S. variegata. — Flowers dark blue, marked with yellow. 

S . bicolor. — Flowers bright yellow, with the superior 
petal tipped with purple. 

S. galatea greatly resembles this. 

These plants are also classed with ixia and gladiolus, and 
are now generally referred to the latter family. 

THE ANOMATHECA. 

One of the most sparkling little bulbs for house-culture. 
The bulbs are small, and should be potted in November, in 
sandy loam : during the winter they will make a good 
growth of bright-green foliage, and, beginning to bloom in 
May, will produce a succession of brilliant, scarlet-crimson 
flowers all summer. The plants should be allowed to rest 
from September until the planting season. Propagated 
by offsets, which are freely produced, and by seeds 
which bloom the second year, and vegetate without any 
care. 

The species are, — 

A. cruenta. — Flowers very brilliant, and the best species. 
We have grown this species in the open ground ; but the 
flowers are so small, they do not appear as well as in a pot. 



198 



THE ANTHOLYZA. 



A prettier plant for summer decoration of the conservatory 
it would be difficult to find. 

A.juncea. — A free-flowering species, with pink flowers, 
stained with a dark spot at the base. Very pretty, but not 
so showy as the last. 




THE ANTHOLYZA. 

A tall-growing family of Cape bulbs, usually too large for 
greenhouse culture, and not hardy enough to stand our 
winters. 

The flowers are large, showy, and freely produced. The 
plants are of easy growth under the ordinary treatment 



THE EIGIDELLA. 199 

given to Cape bulbs, and propagate readily by seeds and 
offsets. 

The principal species are, — 

A. JEthiopica. — Dark-red flowers. 

A. prcealata. — Yellowish-orange. 

A. montana. — Brown, fragrant flowers. There are other * 
species of no special merit. 

A. cunonia, quadrangularis, and sjplendens are sometimes 
called Anisanthus. 

THE RIGIDELLA. 

A beautiful family, with only three species, of which R. 
flammed, which grows about three feet high, with broad- 
plaited leaves, is the best known. The flowers are dark 
crimson, very handsome, drooping ; but the seed-pod becomes 
erect after the fading of the flower. 

The plant is of easy culture in rich, light soil, and should 
be treated like a tigridia. It is a native of Mexico, and was 
introduced in 1838. We have bloomed this plant very suc- 
cessfully in a pot. 

The other species are R. immaculata and orthantha, and 
are of dwarfer habit. 



XIV. 

THE AMARYLLIS, HIPPEASTRUM, SPREKELIA, VALLOTA, 
LYCORIS, PYROLIRION, NERINE, ZEPHYR ANTHES. 






THE AMARYLLIS. 

HILE most of the species of this numerous 
family are greenhouse bulbs, and tender, 
a few bloom in summer in the garden. 
We speak popularly, considering all the 
families of Hippeastrum, Vattota, Spre- 
kelia, as Amaryllis, to which family they 
formerly belonged ; but the more recent 
classifications have left but few true ama- 

ryllis, and the old genus has been separated into many new 

families. 

The mode of culture to be pursued with the tender 

species is given at length in a recent volume of " The 

Cottage Gardener," from which we quote. 

200 




THE AMARYLLIS. 201 

The Bvppeastrums are, with few exceptions, natives of 
the tropics ; but, owing to the different elevations at which 
they are found, some are greenhouse and others stove plants. 
In their native habitats they are inured to a period of almost 
continual wet, and undergo a corresponding period of dry- 
ness. The heat is most intense when the plants are ripen- 
ing their bulbs, or at rest ; and least when making their 
growth, or developing. In cultivation, they require abun- 
dant moisture and nourishment when growing ; but, after the 
foliage has attained to full size, they require no more water 
than just sufficient to keep the leaves from flagging. Per- 
fect drainage must be secured. The soil should be strong 
yellow loam and sand. Leaf-mould and other vegetable 
matter is to be avoided. Too much heat, when growing, is 
injurious, as it creates drawn foliage, and injures the bulbs. 
They require as much if not more heat when at rest than 
when growing ; and, though this may seem the reverse of good 
management, it is only what they receive in their native 
habitats. The roots remain on the bulbs throusrhout the 
year : taking them out of the pots when at rest, therefore, 
robs the bulbs of that which Nature has supplied to collect 
food for the support of the flower-scape. 

The practice of taking the bulbs out of the pots, and stor- 



202 THE AMARYLLIS. 

ing them near the flues to ripen them, is faulty ; for, when 
potted, the bulbs have immediately to be plunged into bot- 
tom-heat, that new roots may be quickly formed to support 
the flower-stem, as otherwise the flowers fail to expand. 

Deep, narrow pots, eight inches in depth, and double the 
diameter of the bulbs, are the best pots to grow them in. 

Frequent potting and plenty of pot-room are not neces- 
sary ; and potting a plant because the pot is full of roots 
will frequently prevent its flowering. The pot can never 
be too full of roots, as the bulbs flower all the better 
for being cramped: and as long as the drainage is per- 
fect, and the soil is sweet, it is immaterial how long the 
plants are kept in the same soil and pots ; only the offsets 
should be removed to prevent them from weakening the 
parent. 

The bulbs should be potted as soon as received in a com- 
post of old, turfy, yellow loam, not sifted, but lumpy ; add 
to this one-sixth of sharp sand, and in this pot the bulbs, 
the neck being level with the top of the pot, and the soil 
carefully put round the sides and pressed gently down, leav- 
ing a hollow of half an inch at the top of the pot for water- 
ing, the bulb being covered to the neck with soil. Finish 
with a copious watering. 



THE AMARYLLIS. 203 

This same method is to be pursued in transplanting, tak- 
ing care not to injure the roots. Perfect drainage must be 
secured both in potting and repotting. 

The newly received bulbs, having been potted, should be 
placed in a hot-bed, under a flue or any dry place where 
the temperature will vary little from 50°. Let them remain 
for about six weeks, and receive no water after potting until 
the leaves appear. They should then be plunged into a hot 
bed of about 70° temperature. The bulbs will soon show 
the leaves and flower-scape, when they must be slightly 
watered, gradually increasing the quantity as growth pro- 
gresses. 

In a few weeks the plants will be in flower, when they 
may be removed to the parlor or conservatory. After the 
bloom is over, remove them to the greenhouse, and keep them 
duly supplied with water and liquid manure until the strong- 
est growth is attained, which will be in July if the bulbs 
have been potted in January, which is the most suitable 
time. . Then place the bulbs on a shelf near the glass, in 
full sun, and gradually diminish the supply of water so as to 
have them at rest by the beginning of October. They may 
then be stored away in the pots near the flue so as not to 
roast them, and no more water be given. 



204 THE AMARYLLIS. 

Some of them need no hot-bed treatment ; for example, 
Sprekelia (Amaryllis) formosissimus, the well-known Jaco- 
bean lily, and JEippeastrum vittatum : these do well in ordi- 
nary greenhouse treatment, and are among the handsomest 
of the family. The great rule to be remembered in amaryl- 
lis-growing is never to water the bulbs until they show 
signs of growth, unless they are plunged in bottom-heat, 
but allow them a natural season of rest. They will begin 
growing when they are ready ; and watering before the 
leaves appear helps to produce decay in the bulb, and de- 
stroys the roots. No set time can be given for starting 
amaryllis into growth, or for repotting them. The bulbs 
do not all start into growth at once, nor do all grow equally. 
Some are late, some are early ; but, when the leaves cease 
to elongate, the growth has been made. In general, the 
plants start into growth in January, and attain their full 
growth, and need repotting, in July ; but they never need 
potting while the drainage is perfect and the soil is sweet. 
After potting, the plants should be kept on a shady shelf 
for a few days, to recover from the check produced by the 
operation : they may then be removed to the shelf in the 
greenhouse, near the glass, and treated as before directed. 
The care to be taken is that the green foliage does not flag 



THE AMARYLLIS. 205 

for want of water. Any bulbs which seem disposed to 
remain evergreen should not be forced into rest by with- 
holding water ; but just enough should be given, and very 
little will be required, to prevent the leaves from flag- 
ging. 

The temperature from January to June should be 55° to 
G0°, and, if plenty of air is given, may rise from 75° to 80° 
in the sun. From June to October, from 60° to 65°, and 
rising from 80° to 90°, will do no harm. From October to 
January, a dry atmosphere, never below 50°, or exceeding 
60 9 , suits them. 

It not unfrequently happens, when the growth is made 
early, say by May, and water gradually withheld after 
that time, that the plants will rest at midsummer, lose a 
number of leaves, and give a fine bloom in autumn, in 
addition to flowering in spring. Any bulbs which seem 
disposed to rest at midsummer should be encouraged to do 
so, and water withheld, as continued waterings would only 
produce a weak second growth. 

Plants flowering twice will make a second growth after 
the second flowering, which must be well supported by 
waterings of liquid manure, and abundance of water, until 
perfected ; when the bulbs may be dried off, as before 



206 THE AMARYLLIS. 

directed. This treatment is proper for most of the family. 
Any peculiar mode of culture required by any species will 
be noticed in the description of that species. 

Seed may be sown, as soon as it is ripe, in a mixture of 
dry loam and leaf-mould. Place a seed in the centre of a 
very small pot, and just cover it with sand. If the sowing 
is in spring, or before June, place in a hot-bed, with a heat 
of 70°, and keep moderately moist. When the seedlings 
appear above the soil, water more abundantly, and keep 
them growing as long as they seem disposed. They ma] 
be kept evergreen for a couple of years, allowing only a 
season of rest by giving less waier when they seem least 
disposed to grow. After the second season, they should be 
treated as old plants ; and the greater part will flower th< 
third year. Seed sown in autumn should be kept on a drj 
shelf until spring, and then started into growth in heat, as 
above. 

The following are species : — 

Hlppeastrum aulicum. ■ — Green and scarlet ; Brazil. 

H. aulicum platypetalum. — Orange ; Brazil . 

H. aulicum glaucophyllum. — Crimson and green ; Brazil. 

H. psitticinum. — Green and red ; Brazil. 

H. solandrceflorum. — White ; Guiana. 



THE AMARYLLIS. 207 

i 

Var. rubro-striatum. — White and red. 

Var. purpurascens. — White and purple. 

H. calyptratum. — Green and red ; Brazil. 

H. stylosum. — Coppery orange. 

H. regince. — Scarlet and green. 

H. reticulatum. — Purplish-red ; Brazil. 

Var. striatifolium. — Purple ; Brazil. 

H. crocatum. — Saffron ; Brazil. 

H. equestre. — Scarlet ; West Indies. 

Var. major. — Scarlet ; West Indies. 

Var. plenum. — Scarlet ; West Indies. 

H. fulgidum. — Orange-scarlet ; Brazil. 

H. ignescens. — Bright orange. 

H. rutilum. — Scarlet. i 

H. vittatum. — White and red, striped ; Cape of Good 
Hope. 

Var. majus. — White and red, striped ; Cape of Good 
Hope. 

H. ambiguum longiflorum. — White and red ; Lima. 

H. anomalum. — Crimson and green. 

H. Organense. — Crimson and white ; Brazil. 

H. pulverulentum. — Orange ; Brazil. 

H. princeps. — Scarlet ; Brazil. 



208 THE AMARYLLIS. 

The following are fine hybrid varieties : — 

H. Ackermanni. — Crimson, two flowers on a scape. The 
variety pulcherrima has larger flowers, and four on a scape. 

H. Johnsoni. — Scarlet and white, a cross between regi- 
nce and vittatum. The variety striata has clearer stripes. 

H. brilliant. — Scarlet. 

H. delicata. — A stripe down centre of the leaf ; flowers 
scarlet and white. 

II. Cleopatra. — Dark red, edged with white. 

H. marginata conspicua. — White, with crimson stripes ; 
one of the best. 

H. Prince of Orange. — Bright orange. 

H. ignea. — Brilliant scarlet. 

H. crocea grandijlora. — Orange-scarlet, marked with 
white. 

Amaryllis Belladonna. — This exquisite species is a 
native of the Cape. Its culture is very easy, if care be 
taken to grow the foliage well. It thrives well under the 
general treatment given above ; but will also bloom in the 
border in the summer, if planted in June. The lovely spike 
of flowers shoots up in August, followed by the leaves. As, 
however, the foliage has no time to ripen before cut down 
by the frost, it is well to plunge it in the border in a pot ; 



THE SPREKELIA. — THE VALLOTA. 209 

and, before the first frost, remove the pot to the greenhouse 
to mature the leaves, as, otherwise, the bulb will not flower 
the second year. 

A. blanda. — A finer and larger species, but more tender, 
requiring greenhouse culture, as we have directed above. 
Flowers delicate blush- white ; a native of the Cape. 

A. pallida and latifolia are varieties of A. Belladonna. 

THE SPREKELIA. 

Sprekelia (Amaryllis) formosissimus.- — A lovely species, 
very different in form from the remainder of the family. 
The flowers are most brilliant scarlet, and are produced 
before the leaves. The bulbs of this species may be planted 
in the open border in May. They will bloom in June, and 
before October ripen their growth ; when they may be taken 
up, and hung up in a frost-proof, dry cellar, until spring. 
They may also be grown in pots, in water, or in moss. 
The plant is generally known as Jacobean lily. 

THE VALLOTA. 

Yallota (amaryllis) purpurea. — This species is evergreen ; 

and, as its flowers and leaves are seen together, it is one of 

the most ornamental plants of the family. It is a native 
14 



210 THE LYCORIS. — THE PYROLIRION. 

of the Cape, and is found in wet situations. The plants 
grow freely in sandy peat and leaf-mould, and require 
plenty of water. The offsets are produced so freely^as 
almost to choke the parent plant. The flowers are brilliant 
scarlet, and are produced in great profusion in summer. 
The usual treatment is to grow the bulb all the time, only 
giving rather less water in winter. 

This species is very common, and not unfrequently seen 
growing in old bowls and pitchers in cottage-windows. 

THE LYCORIS. 

A very pretty family, nearly allied to Nerine, but natives 
of China. All the species grow well in light, sandy soil. 

L. aurea has bright-yellow flowers in August. 

L. radiata has dingy-pink flowers in June, and is a shy 
bloomer. 

L. straminea has striped flowers in June. 

All need greenhouse culture, and to be treated like Cape 
bulbs. 

THE PYROLIRION. 

A family of two species of rare bulbs, with tubular flow- 
ers, resembling zephyranthes ; natives of Peru ; flowering in 
summer before the leaves are fully grown, and requiring 



THE NERINE. 211 

rest from December to April. Soil, a sandy loam and leaf- 
mould. 

The species are P. aureum and flavum, with orange and 
yellow flowers respectively. 

THE NERINE. 

The general rule in the growth of this splendid genus is 
briefly laid down by Mr. Herbert : " To promote the flower- 
ing of the nerines, a vigorous growth of leaf must be encour- 
aged in the autumn : the requisites are warmth enough to 
excite them, and air enough to prevent their growing weak. 
During the winter, they must not be allowed to lose their 
foliage either by frost or drought. About May, they should 
be allowed to rest by ceasing to water them. After about 
three months' rest, they may be watered again to promote 
their growth at the very beginning of September." When 
we add to this, that all the species require a light, sandy 
soil, we have given full directions for the culture of the 
nerine. 

The flowers of many of the species are very beautiful ; but 
many have the fault of blooming before the leaves. 

Most are natives of the Cape ; but the Guernsey lily 



212 THE NERINE. 

comes from Japan originally, and JV". undulata from 
China. 

None of the species are hardy with us, but require green- 
house protection. 

N. sarniensis. — This is the Guernsey lily so common in 
England, producing its heads of red flowers before the 
leaves. The bulbs are usually imported, just as they are 
coming into bloom, from the Isle of Guernsey, where they 
are grown in great quantities. 

By growing the foliage well, the bulb will flower sixain in 
a year or two ; but, in England, it is generally thrown away 
after blooming. 

N. rosea. — A fine species, with pink flowers. 

N. curvifolia. — A fine plant, with brilliant scarlet flow- 
ers. This species flowers freely, and may be forced into 
bloom any month in the year, although it naturally blooms 
in September. 

N. corusca. — A species producing large heads of salmon- 
colored flowers, but not very free-flowering. 

N. venusta. — A species much resembling N. sarniensis, 
but producing leaves and flowers at the same time, and 
blooming earlier than other species. 

N. flexuosa. — A species with pink flowers. 



THE ZEPHYRANTHES. 



213 



N. humilis. — A species with pink flowers and of low 
growth. 

All the species, of which there are ten, deserve more atten- 
tion than they receive from amateurs. They seed freely, and 
cross with each other ; but hybrids have not been produced 
between them and any other of the Amaryllis family. 




THE ZEPHYRANTHES. 



A pretty genus, of which some species are common in 
greenhouses. The flowers are delicately colored, and pro- 



214 THE ZEPHYRANTHES. 

duced one on a stem, but in great profusion. A turfy loam, 
mixed with a half of pure sand, will grow them well. 
They flower during the summer, and may be dried off in 
winter by being placed on a shelf under the stage. 

They increase rapidly by offsets, and in time will so fill 
the pot as to burst it to pieces. 

There are ten species, of which the most common are 

Z. rosea. — A native of Cuba, very ornamental from the 
profusion of rosy flowers produced all summer. 

Z. Atamasco. — A lovely species; a native of Virginia, 
where it is called the Atamasco lily, producing rosy flow- 
ers, which, with age, turn to pure white, in spring. 

Z. Candida. — A species with white flowers, much re- 
sembling a white crocus. The leaves are flat and fleshy, and 
both leaves and flowers are very showy. 

It is a native of Buenos Ayres, blooming with us all 
summer. 

The other species, of which we may mention Z. carinata, 
verecunda, tubespatha, and mesochloa, are all pretty. 



XV. 

THE TUBEROSE, CYCLAMEN, DAHLIA, COMMELINA, AND 
VARIOUS TUBERS. 

THE TUBEROSE. 




HILE generally called a bulb, the 

tuberose is properly a tuber ; but 

this and some other plants of 

similar nature may well find a 

place in the present volume. 

There are two species of tuberose, — that commonly grown, 
Poliantlies tuberosa, a native of the East Indies, and its 
double variety, much more common but no handsomer than 
the single ; and P. gracilis, a native of Brazil, with light 
yellow flowers. 

The whole secret of blooming the tuberose successfully is 
in giving the roots plenty to feed upon, and in keeping them 

215 



216 THE TUBEROSE. 

warm. The ordinary culture keeps the tops warm, and is 
successful in producing a great amount of foliage. 

The tuberose of the garden is a native of the East Indies, 
and was introduced about 1630. Our dried roots are an- 
nually imported from Italy, where they are grown in great 
quantities for exportation. The day is probably not far 
distant when we shall be able to grow tuberoses in this 
country : the experiment has been successfully tried in New 
Jersey, and bulbs quite as good as any imported have been 
produced, some of which are now flowering finely in our 
garden, with as stout spikes and as large flowers as the 
imported bulbs beside them. 

The bulbs for blooming should be carefully selected ; 
those being chosen which are full and plump, and with a 
sound heart. Pot them in eight-inch pots, singly, in a com- 
post of well-rotted manure or the remnants of an old hot- 
bed, sandy peat and loam or leaf-mould, with a little char- 
coal dust ; leaving only the crown of the bulb above the soil. 
Before filling in the compost, place a crock over the hole on 
the bottom of the pot, and crumble it quarter full of old 
cow-droppings which have been exposed to the winter in 
the pasture. 

All offsets should be removed previous to planting. 



THE TUBEROSE. 217 

Plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed ; and, having 
given a good watering, cover up the frames with the sash, 
and cover the sash with a shutter. Examine them daily to 
see that the heat is not too violent ; 75° to 80° is sufficient : 
but they will not need any water until they begin to grow, 
which will be in a few days. After they are fairly in 
growth, remove the lights in fine weather, and give all the 
sun and air possible ; but, in cold or frosty weather, keep 
the sashes on. 

The first planting should be about the middle of April ; 
and plantings may be made for succession, at intervals of a 
fortnight, up to the first of June. As the plants grow, 
increase the water ; and, as summer advances, remove the 
sashes entirely : the object is to get as sturdy a growth as 
possible. There is no danger that a tuberose will not be tall 
enough. Keep them in the pots, and keep the pots together 
in the hotbed, until the spikes begin to expand their 
flowers, when the pots may be removed to the piazza or 
parlor, or plunged in the garden. 

In choosing the position for the hotbed, let it be in full * 
sunshine, and in the hottest possible place. If you supply 
plenty of water, you cannot get a situation too hot ; but the 
pots must always be shaded from the sun, which, if kept in 



218 THE CYCLAMEN. 

the hotbed, they are sure to be. By pursuing this treat- 
ment, the flowers will begin to expand about the middle of 
July, and continue until the first of November, or later, 
if housed on the approach of frosty weather. The foliage 
of the plant, if propagation is an object, should never be 
touched by the frost ; and, in winter, the bulbs should be kept 
in a warm, dry cellar. Propagation is effected by means 
of offsets, which are freely produced, and should be planted 
in spring, in rich, light soil, in a sunny exposure. Flowers 
may be expected from them the third year. 

THE CYCLAMEN. 

There is no- more ornamental plant for greenhouse or 
parlor culture than the cyclamen. It grows readily, flowers 
freely ; the foliage is neat, the flowers handsome, and last 
long in perfection ; and, with all these merits, it has no 
faults. From being long utterly neglected, the cyclamen 
has recently attracted much attention in England : fine new 
hybrids have been produced, and the horticultural journals 
have been filled with reports of cyclamen culture. 

The cyclamen thrives well in a soil composed of equal 
parts of turfy loam, peat, leaf-mould, and silver-sand, well 



THE CYCLAMEN. 219 

mixed together, and not sifted. The autumn-blooming 
species, such as Europawm, should be potted in August ; 
the winter-flowering, in September or October. The pots 
used should be three times the diameter of the bulb, well 
drained, and filled with the compost ; so that the crown of 
the bulb, when planted, will be level with the rim of the 
pot, leaving about half an inch all around for watering. 
Water slightly, to settle the soil ; and plunge the pots in 
coal-ashes, in a cold frame, shading from the sun. Keep 
them thus, with but little water, till growth begins ; then 
give more water, and plenty of light and air, covering them 
carefully when the nights become cold. They may be 
grown in frames until the approach of very cold weather, 
when they may be removed to the parlor .or to the green- 
house ; in either case, being placed in situations where they 
may receive all possible supplies of light and air, and very 
near the glass. The temperature should not be much 
higher than 50° until they begin to bloom ; the secret of 
cyclamen culture being light, air, and a low temperature. 
In England, they are kept in frames all winter, being only 
removed to the house when about to bloom ; but the severity 
of our winters would probably render such culture unsuc- 
cessful in New England, as the plants might damp off when 



220 THE CYCLAMEN. 

shut up for many days in succession, as they might be dur- 
ing a continuance of cold weather. "When the foliage 
begins to decay, water should be withheld, and discontinued 
altogether after a few weeks. The pots may then be placed 
in a cool, dry situation, out of direct sunshine, where they 
can have pure air ; but the soil should never be allowed to 
become dry as dust, or the bulb to shrivel. Some culti- 
vators bury the bulb in the pot in the open ground ; and, 
when uncovered in the autumn, the bulb is plump and 
fresh. 

The cyclamen is propagated by seed. The root is a 
solid corm, and cannot be successfully divided ; and the 
plants sometimes obtained by taking off the little crowns 
of old bulbs are seldom strong and healthy. The seed 
should be gathered as soon as ripe, dried, and sown in 
February, in shallow pots or pans, rather thinly, in a com- 
post of peat, loam, and sand, and the pans be placed in a 
cold frame, or on a shelf in the greenhouse, near the glass. 
The plants soon appear, and make a leaf and a bulb as 
large as a small pea the first year. In spring, turn them 
out of the pots into a shady place in the garden, and let 
them remain until September. Then pot each separately in 
small pots, in a compost of turfy loam, leaf-mould, and 



THE CYCLAMEN. 221 

silver-sand, placing the little bulb about half above the soil. 
Place the pots on a light, airy shelf in the greenhouse, 
watering moderately during the winter, and taking care 
that the soil does not become sodden. Continue this culture 
year by year, accommodating the size of the pots to that 
of the bulbs. Seedlings bloom the third year. 

G. coum. — Leaves bright green, with red on the under- 
side ; flowers bright red, produced external to the leaves, 
to which they form a margin. A native of the south of 
Europe, blooming in February and March, but sometimes 
earlier. It has no fragrance. 

G. Neajpolitanum. — Flowers red, or rosy pink, blooming 
from October to Christmas, and succeeded by the foliage. 
It goes to rest in April and May. A variety, album, has 
white flowers. Neither is fragrant. 

G. Europium. — A species with very variable foliage. 
The leaves are heart-shaped, sometimes roundish, but never 
as round as G. coum ; sometimes beautifully marbled. In 
one variety they are very large, and the plant is almost an 
evergreen and continuous blooming. The bulbs are knotty 
and irregular, but sometimes round, smooth, and flat. The 
flowers are red, rose, or pure white, deliciously fragrant, and 
produced in August. 



222 THE CYCLAMEN. 

G. repandum. ■ — This species resembles C. Neapolitanwn, 
but blooms in spring, showing bright rose-flowers in April. 
It blooms later than any other species. 

(7. vemum. — This species resembles G. coum, but is 
larger in every way : the flowers have a decided purple 
shade, and the leaves a white marking. It blooms in 
November, and continues in bloom until February or 
March. 

C. Athinsi. — A hybrid, between G. coum and C. Per- 
sicum. The leaves are large, often two and a half to 
three inches by two to two and a half inches ; deep, glossy- 
green, with a pale zone within the margin ; the under-side a 
dull reddish-purple. The flowers are white, with crimson 
eye : there are many varieties of all shades of white and 
red. The flowers expand from January to April, and are 
scentless. 

G. Africanum is G. Neapolitanum, with larger foliage. 

G. Ibericum has flat, heart-shaped leaves, deep green, 
with gray band, and reddish-purple underneath. Flowers 
pale rose, with a tinge of purple, with deep crimson spot at 
base of the segments, extending through to the mouth. 
Blooms in November, or through the winter, according to 
treatment. 



THE CYCLAMEN. 223 

G. Persicum. — Leaves variously heart-shaped, toothed 
at the edge ; deep green, with gray or white marbling, and 
pale flesh-color on the under-side. Flowers on tall stalks, 
white, blotched with crimson at the base, petals very long. 
It flowers in autumn, winter, or spring, according to treat- 
ment. The varieties are, — 

G. Persicum rubrum. — Purplish crimson. 

G. Persicum purpureum. — Purplish red. 

C. Persicum stellatum. — White, with starry spots on each 
petal. 

C. Persicum delicatum. — White, pink centre. 

G. Persicum album. — Pure white. 

G. Persicum roseum. — Rosy red. 

G. Persicum roseum coccineum. — Pose, scarlet centre. 

C. Persicum odoratum. — White, rose-eye, fragrant. 

G. Persicum odoratum rubrum. — Posy reel, fragrant. 

C. Persicum striatum. — Striped and spotted rose, on white 
ground. 

G. Persicum marginatum. — Shaded rose. 

There are many other varieties, as seedlings vary very 
much ; but those above given are the most distinct. The 
above list has been condensed from a carefully written 



224 THE DAHLIA. 

article in an English magazine, which is the most satis- 
factory statement of species we have seen. 

The frame culture of cyclamen is worth a trial in this 
country. How charming it would be, if, as in England, we 
could grow cyclamen like Neapolitan violets ! 

THE DAHLIA. 

This is still in England one of the most popular florists* 
flowers, though in this country the hollyhock and gladiolus 
have drawn away many of its admirers. The plant is a 
native of Mexico ; and the original species, which are single- 
rayed flowers, were introduced into cultivation about the 
beginning of the present century. 

These are, however, long lost to cultivation, unless they 
exist in botanic gardens ; and indeed, though rather pretty 
and curious, are not, as species, especially desirable. The 
chief species are D. scapigera, crocata, frustranea, excelsa, 
lutea, superflua, and Barkerice ; and from these the florists' 
flowers of the present day have sprung. 

The dahlia thrives best in a rich, deep, friable soil, which 
should be trenched, and well manured with thoroughly decom- 
posed manure. The plants should be set out in the latter 



THE DAHLIA. 225 

part of May, five feet apart every way ; and, as they grow, 
be tied to tall stakes. 

The best flowers will be produced in September, after the 
nights become cool. After the frost has killed the tops, 
the tubers should be taken up, and stored in dry sand until 
spring. 

The dahlia is propagated by cuttings of the young spring 
shoots, which may be taken off and rooted in a frame in 
spring, or by division of the roots ; every eye, with a portion 
of root attached, making a plant. It may also be raised 
from seed sown in April, in small pots, and the seedlings 
transplanted. 

The characteristics of a good dahlia as a florist's flower 
are, — 

1. The flower should be a perfect circle when viewed in 
front ; the petals should be broad at the ends, smooth at the 
edges, thick in substance, perfectly free from indenture or 
point, and stiff to hold their form ; the flower should cup a 
little, but not enough to show the under-surface. They 
should be in regular rows, forming an outline of a perfect 
circle, without any vacancy between them ; and all in the 
circle should be the same size, uniformly opened to the same 
shape, and not crumpled. 

15 



226 THE DAHLIA. 

2. The flower should form two-thirds of a ball when 
looked at sideways. The row of petals should rise, one 
above another, symmetrically : every petal should cover the 
joining of the two petals under it, — what the florists call 
imbricating, — by which means the circular appearance is 
perfected throughout. 

3. The centre should be perfect : the unbloomed petals, 
lying with their points towards the centre, should form a 
button, and should be the highest part of the flower, com- 
pleting the ball. 

4. The flower should be symmetrical. The petals should 
open boldly, without showing their under-side, even when 
half opened ; and should form circular rows, uniformly laid, 
evenly opened, and enlarging by degrees to the outer row 
of all. 

5. The flowers should be very double. The rows of 
petals lying one above another should cover one another 
very nearly : not more should be seen in depth than half 
the breadth. The more they are covered, so as to leave them 
distinct, the better in that respect : the petals, therefore, 
though cupped, must be shallow. 

6. The size of the flower when well grown should be 
four inches in diameter, and not more than six. 



THE COMMELINA. 227 

7. The color should be dense, whatever it be ; not as if it 
were a white dipped in color, but as if the whole flower was 
colored throughout. Whether tipped or edged, it must be 
free from splashes or blotches, or indefinite marks of any 
kind ; and new flowers, unless they are superior to all old 
ones of the same color, or are of a novel color themselves, 
with a majority of the points of excellence, should be 
rejected. 

As in dahlias the newest varieties are supposed to be the 
best, and as each year gives us many new varieties, the best 
list can be obtained from florists' latest catalogues. 

THE COMMELINA. 

These pretty little plants are natives of America ; and 
some have tuberous roots, which are eatable. 

They should be raised from seed from which they bloom 
the first year. When the frost has killed the foliage, the 
roots should be taken up, preserved in dry sand until spring 
in a frost-proof cellar, and planted out like any tender 
tuber. 

The species are, — 

G. coelestis. — Flowers blue or white. 



228 THE SALVIA. — ASCLEPIAS. — APIOS. 

C. communis. — Flowers bluish purple. 

G. tuberosa. — Flowers blue. 

There are many other species, mostly with blue flowers. 

SALVIA. 

One species of the salvia, S. patens, has a tuberous root. 
The seeds should be sown in the greenhouse or a frame in 
April, and the plants pricked out into the garden, where 
they bloom the first year. On the approach of cold weather, 
they should be taken up, and treated as directed for comme- 

lina. 

ASCLEPIAS. 

One species of the silkworts, or milkweeds, is a hardy 
tuber. 

Asclepias tuberosa is one of the most showy plants in the 
garden in July. The flowers are deep orange. The plant 
is hardy, and, once well established, will bloom freely for 
years. It delights in a rich, deep, light soil, in which the 
roots strike to a great depth. 

APIOS. 

A. tuberosa is a pretty, pea-like vine, with hard tuberous 
roots, commonly known as " ground-nuts." The plant is 



THE APIOS. 



229 



climbing, and in August produces large clusters of deli- 
ciously fragrant, reddish-purple flowers. 

A native of North America, and not uncommon in shady 
thickets ; perfectly hardy ; and, once planted in good soil, it 
will take care of itself. 





OST generally called a violet, this plant * is a 
true lily, and the smallest of the tribe. Why it 
should be called a dog-tooth violet, who can 
say? 

All the species are natives of Europe and America, and 
delight in a soil containing an abundance of decaying vege- 
table matter. All bloom in very early spring, and have 
ornamental foliage. The bulbs are very impatient of 
drought, and, when transplanted, should be kept as short a 
time as possible out of the ground. The best time for trans- 
planting is just after the foliage has died away, which will 

* Erythronium. 



THE BULBOCODIUM. 231 

be in June ; but the plants should seldom be disturbed. As, 
individually, they are small and low-growing, they should 
always be planted two inches deep, in clumps, and on the 
front of the bed. 

E. dens cants. — ■ This species is a native of the south of 
Europe, and varies much, from white to deep purple, in the 
color of its flowers. It is perfectly hardy, and blooms early 
in May. The foliage is beautifully variegated. 

E. Americanum. — The well-known species of our woods, 
with drooping flowers, brown outside, and bright-yellow 
inside. It requires a rich, peaty soil, and a moist, shady 
situation, to bloom well. 

There are varieties of this with larger flowers. 

THE BULBOCODIUM. 

A pretty little plant, greatly resembling a crocus, and 
thriving and flowering well in the spring border under the 
same treatment. 

The species are B. vernum, Caucasicum, and versicolor, all 
spring-flowering and perfectly hardy. B. Gaucasicum is 
sometimes called Merendera Caucasica. 



232 THE COLCHICUM. 

THE COLCHICUM. 

All plants of this family resemble the crocus, and are 
commonly known as autumnal crocus, or meadow saffron. 
The botanical difference consists in the crocus having three 
stamens, and the colchicum six ; the colchicum also produ- 
cing many more flowers from the same bulb. 

All the family are natives of Europe or Asia. These 
plants need only to be planted in common garden-loam, where 
they increase very rapidly, and flower freely. All are per- 
fectly hardy. The peculiarity of the plant is its producing 
its flower in the autumn, and throwing up the foliage and 
ripening its seed in the next spring. 

G. autumnale. — A pretty species, throwing some six or 
eight flowers from each bulb in November. The flowers 
are purple, and there are white and double varieties. 

G. Byzantinum. — A native of Turkey, with large bulbs, 
— each producing sixteen to twenty flowers in autumn, ■ — 
succeeded by the leaves in May. The flowers are pur- 
ple. 

There are other species ; but they are seldom cultivated, 
though perfectly hardy. 



THE ERANTHES. — THE TEOP^OLUM. 233 

THE ERANTHES. 

The winter aconite {Eranihes hy emails) is a simple little 
yellow flower, valuable for its early blooming, and contrast- 
ing well with the snowdrops, which are the only flowers to 
keep it company at the early season at which it blooms. 

The flower is about three inches high, produced one on 
each of a pair of flat-lobed leaves, which terminate the stalk. 
The root is tuberous, and resembles a lump of hard peat- 
earth. 

It needs only to be planted in the border, and left to itself. 
It is a native of England. There is another species, a 
native of Siberia (E. Slberlca), also with yellow flowers, 
and equally hardy. 

THE TROP^OLUM. 

The tuberous species of this family bear little resem- 
blance to our common nasturtiums. They are generally 
tender greenhouse-plants, of delicate growth, and proper 
subjects for careful culture. They are natives of South 
America ; and one, T. azureum, has flowers of the finest 
blue in the floral kingdom. 

The tubers should be potted when the thread-like stem is 



234 



THE OPERANTHUS. 



seen starting from the top of the bulb, in rich, sandy loam, 
in not over-large pots. The plants should be given plenty 
of sun and air, and the hair-like stems daily twined round 
a trellis. After the bloom has faded, the foliage turns 
yellow, and the root should be allowed to rest. Growth 
generally begins in autumn ; and the plant flowers in early 
spring, resting in summer. The chief species are, — 

T. brachyceras. — Flowers yellow. 

T. Jarattii. — Flowers scarlet and yellow. 

T. azureum. — Flowers blue. 

T. tricolorum. — Flowers orange, red, and purple. These 
are among the most graceful plants in the greenhouse ; free- 
growers, with high-colored and very curious flowers, and, in 
T. azureum, delightfully fragrant. Trained round a balloon- 
trellis, they make fine specimens. A singular fact in their 
growth is, that the stem, which, where it joins the bulb, is as 
fine as a hair, is often found to increase in size in its 
growth, and, in a distance of several feet, may be three or 
four times larger. 

THE OPERANTHUS. 



This little bulb is often found in florists' catalogues under 
the name of Amaryllis lutea. It is also called yellow colchi- 



THE MTJSCARI. 235 

cum. The flower resembles a yellow crocus, and is pro- 
duced in October ; the foliage continuing to grow during 
the winter. 

In England it is hardy, and contrasts well with beds of 
colchicum ; but it does not stand our winters, and there- 
fore must be grown in a pot in the greenhouse. Soil, 
common loam. 

The species is 0. luteus, a native of Tangiers ; and there 
is a variety with narrow leaves. 

THE MUSCARI. 

These plants, commonly known as musk or grape hya- 
cinths, are common in every garden. They require no 
particular culture, and increase and flower well year after 
year. As they are rather dwarf, they should be planted in 
the front of the flower-border. They propagate freely by 
offsets or seeds. 

M. moschatum. — This, the common musk-hyacinth, is 
readily known by the strong smell of musk. The flowers 
are purple when they expand, but gradually become 
yellowish. A native of Turkey. 

M. macrocarpum. — A more showy plant than the last, 
and easily known by its large size and brilliant colors. 

M. comosum. — The well-known tufted hyacinth, of easy 



236 



THE LACHENALTA. 



culture in common garden-soil. The feathered hyacinth is 
a variety of this species. 

M. botryoides. — This is the best known and finest of the 
family. The flower-spikes look like little bunches of grapes ; 
whence the name of the family. From their peculiar 
fragrance, the plant is often called " Baby's Breath." 

There are light and dark blue, and an almost black 
variety ; also a white one, which is very pretty, and, it is 
said, a pink one. A native of Italy, and perfectly hardy. 




THE LACHENALIA. 

A family of Cape bulbs, of easy culture in the green- 



THE STERNBERGIA. 237 

house, under the usual treatment of Cape bulbs. They 
require a sandy soil, and are often, when well grown, orna- 
mental ; but the plants are small, and make but little show. 
The foliage of some of the species is prettily variegated. 

There are twenty or thirty species, all flowering in spring 
or winter, of which the best are 

L. pendula. — Scarlet and green flowers. 

L. quadricolor. — Scarlet and green. 

L. luteola. — Yellow. 

L. tricolor. — Red, green, and yellow. 

L. unifolia. — Green. 

L. anguinea. — White, variegated foliage. 

L. purpureo coerulea. — Blue and purple. 

THE STERNBERGIA. 

A family of autumn-blooming bulbs, with yellow flowers, 
produced, one on a stalk, before the leaves. They grow 
and flower freely in sandy loam, but are not very orna- 
mental. Treatment the same as for Operanthus. The 
species are S. colcliiciflora and Clusiana, both with yellow 
flowers ; the former a native of the Crimea, the latter of 
Turkey. 



XVII. 

THE ARUM, CALOCASIA, ERYTHRINA, CANNA, DICENTRA, 
SANGUINARIA, RICHARDIA, TRILLIUM. 

THE ARUM. 



OST of the plants of this family are 
more curious than beautiful ; but the 
foliage is generally effective, and the 
flowers, from their peculiar appearance, 
are worthy of a place in a large collec- 
tion. 

Some plants once classed with this 
genus have been separated to form a 
new family called Aris^ma, and some 
of the large stove species are now known as Alocasia and 
Calocasia. There are about a dozen hardy, and some 
twenty greenhouse or stove species. They all thrive in 

238 




THE ARUM. 239 

sandy loam, with a portion of peat ; and are propagated by 
division, and rarely by seed. The plants begin to grow in 
the spring, when they should be repotted : in the autumn 
they rest, and should be allowed to dry off, but never to 
become very dry. Some of the stove species, however, are 
evergreen. 

A. dracunculus is very showy when in bloom. 

The most common species are, — 

A. (Ariscema) dracontium. — The common green-dragon, 
with tall, hand-shaped leaves, and bright-green flowers. 
A native of North America, and hardy in any damp garden- 
soil. » 

A. dracunculus. — The well-known dragon-plant, growing 
several feet high, with a large, blackish-purple flower. 
This species may be potted in autumn, and will bloom in 
spring: it should have a rather large pot. With us it 
requires greenhouse protection. It is sometimes grown as 
a house-plant ; but its rank smell does not recommend it for 
the parlor. 

A. Italicum. — A small-growing species, with greenish- 
yellow flowers, requiring greenhouse treatment with us, and 
not very ornamental. 

A. tenuifolium. — Also a low-growing species, with white 



240 



THE CALOCASIA. 



flowers ; a native of the south of Europe, and requiring the 
same treatment as A. Itdlicum. 

A. (Arisceum) triphyllum. — The common Indian turnip, 
or Jack in the Pulpit, of our woods. The plant is curious 
and ornamental, both in flower and berry. It thrives well 
in deep soil, in a shady situation, and often grows very 
large. 

The stove species are seldom seen in collection. 



THE CALOCASIA. 

These plants have been separated from arum. They are 
generally distinguished for their large leaves, and are grown 
as foliaged plants. They require stove treatment. Most 
of the species are evergreen ; but some of the deciduous 
kinds do well in the border as bedding-out plants, and the 
foliage is very ornamental. 

G. esculenta. — This is a fine aroideous plant, throwing 
up from a flat root, Avith a prominent tubercle on the top, a 
crown of dark, rich green foliage. While in the- greenhouse, 
it will preserve its foliage most of the year : it does well in 
the border as a bedding-plant. The tubers should be 
planted in the latter part of May, in a rich soil, in a sunny 
situation, about six inches deep. They will soon make 



THE ERYTHRINA. 241 

growth ; and, by the 1st of August, the plant will have a 
crown of rich foliage, some of the leaves being two feet 
long. If the roots are forwarded in pots, plunged in a 
gentle hotbed, the plants become effective in the garden by 
the 1st of July. As an ornament for the border of ponds, 
this is a splendid plant. 

The soil must be deep, rich, and rather moist, for the full 
growth of the foliage. In autumn, take. up the roots, dry 
and clean them, and keep them in dry sand, in a frost-proof 
cellar, until spring. 

O. odoraia. - This is a stove species, with noble foliage 
and very fragrant flowers. The plant is evergreen aid 
caulescent, growing from three to six feet in height. The 
flower is large, greenish yellow, and delightfully fragrant. 
The plant requires plenty of room for its roots and leaves ; 
and, where sufficient space can be given, it is a noble plant. 

THE EEYTHRINA. 

A most showy family of plants, which, usually grown with 
stove-heat, do well bedded out in the summer. 

Most of the family are natives of the tropics, and are 
rapid-growing plants, with pinnate leaves, and pea-like flow- 
ers of bright or dark red. 



16 



242 the ervikhina. 

The shoots proceed from a hard, woody root, in early- 
spring ; grow rapidly, producing large spikes of bloom in 
August ; and, if allowed, will continue growing until the 
plant becomes a shrub, or even a small tree. The proper 
treatment, however, is to cut off all shoots close to the root, 
and allow the plant to rest during the winter, starting it 
into growth again in early spring. 

The plant is singularly facile in its growth ; for by proper 
application of heat, light, and water, it may be had in bloom 
any month in the year. 

Our plan is to treat it as a bedding-plant. 

In April, the roots are planted in a frame, where they 
soon make shoots. 

When all danger of frost is over, and the chill is out of 
the ground, the roots are carefully transplanted to a rich 
border, where they grow vigorously, and bloom freely all 
summer. When the frost has killed the foliage, the plant is 
cut down ; and the roots, packed in dry earth, are preserved 
in a warm frost-proof cellar until spring. 

The flowers of all are red, dark or dull, or scarlet ; the dif- 
ference being in color, foliage, and growth. The plants are 
easily propagated by cuttings of the young shoots in spring, 
or by cutting up the old flowering stem when ripe, and strik- 



THE CANNA. 243 

ing the cuttings in sand under a bell-glass, with strong bot- 
tom-heat. Seed is also occasionally produced, and vegetates 
freely. "Within the last few years, the French florists have 
raised some fine hybrid varieties, with very brilliant flowers ; 
but they are not yet in general cultivation. 

The principal species are L. laurifoUa y crista galli, herbacea, 
speciosa, and macrophylla. 



THE CANNA. 

These plants, commonly known as Indian shot, are very 
conspicuous in the garden as foliaged plants, and some of 
the flowers possess no inconsiderable degree of beauty. 
Raised from seed, which should be sown in pots, with 
gentle bottom-heat, the plants make but little show the first 
year ; but when the roots are large, and the plants become 
strong, there is no more effective plant in the garden. 

The object should be to encourage the growth of the seed- 
ling-plants by pricking them out in rich deep soil in order 
that the roots may become large. After the frost has killed 
the tops, the roots should be carefully lifted, and, with what 
little soil adheres to them, placed in flat boxes, and kept in a 
dry, frost-proof cellar until spring. In April, place the 



244 THE DICENTRA. 

roots in a cold frame from which frost is excluded, cover- 
ing them with a slight coating of loam, and water them. 
They will soon begin to grow ; when they may be divided 
into as many parts as there are shoots, and, in the latter 
part of May, should be transplanted to the borders. They 
are very effective in large beds, as the contrasts of the leaves 
of the different species and their beautiful markings are very 
fine. The flowers are red, yellow, crimson, or scarlet, in 
long spikes. Some species grow six to eight feet long. 

G. Nepalensis, viridiflora, gigantea, limbata, and Wars- 
zewiczii are fine species. For a long list of species, with 
height and color of flowers, see " Garden Flowers." 

THE DICENTRA. ' 

These plants, of which the best-known species is the well- 
known D. (JDielytra) spectabilis, are hardy ornaments of the 
herbaceous border. There are many species, mostly with 
fleshy or bulbous roots. Some of our native species, as 
D. cucullaria and Canadensis, are very ornamental, and do 
well in a shady situation, in rich soil. D. spectabilis requires 
only the treatment of common border-plants. If, however, 
the plants are allowed to get very large, they decay in the 



THE SANGUINARIA. — THE RICHARDIA. 245 

centre : therefore they should be taken up and divided every 
third year. The plant seeds sparingly, but may be increased 
largely by division. There is a white variety. The Euro- 
pean bulbous or rather tuberous species are not very orna- 
mental or desirable. 

THE SANGUINARIA. 

This well-known flower, the bloodroot of our woods, 
springs from a thick, creeping root-stock. 

The flower is white, with a mass of yellow stamens in the 
centre, and blooms in early spring ; the flower bud coming up 
enveloped in a sheathing-leaf, which, after the fading of the 
flower, becomes very large. The plant grows readily in the 
border. We have a semi-double chance variety, and have 
little doubt but that a double variety might be produced. 
8. Canadensis is the only species. 

THE RICHARDIA, 

Formerly known as the calla, but now as B. jEthiopica : this 
plant is one of the best parlor-plants we have. 

Its growth is stately ; the flower showy ,_ fragrant, and 
freely produced ; and it seems to defy all the injuries which 
gas and furnace-heat inflict upon other plants. 



246 THE TRILLIUM. 

The root is a flattish tuber, and resembles that of other 
aroideous plants. The only requisites for successful culture 
are rich soil, plenty of water, and pot-room. 

It propagates freely by suckers, which should be removed 
if a single large plant is the object ; but the better plan is to 
keep repotting as the old pot fills with roots, and allowing 
all the suckers to remain : a very large plant will be the 
result, which will never be out of bloom. 

As a bedding-plant in the summer, the calla does well, 
producing fine, healthy foliage, but not flowering freely. 
In water-scenery, its foliage is very effective. 

There is a variety, with foliage spotted with white, which 
may be desirable in a collection of foliaged plants. 

The plant is a native of Africa, and is killed by the least 
frost. 

THE TRILLIUM. 

These plants are natives of rich woods, but grow well in 
the garden, if in deep soil, and not in a very dry situation. 
They are among the most beautiful of spring-blooming 
plants, and nothing can exceed the beauty of a large bed 
of T. grandiflorum in full bloom. The corm is small, 
roundish, and seamed, and generally deep in the ground. 



THE TRILLIUM. 247 

All are perfectly hardy. They are propagated by division 
or by seed, which vegetates with difficulty, and may be 
transplanted either in early spring, before blooming, or in 
autumn, when the foliage decays. The fruit is a red or 
purple berry. All are natives of North America. The 
species are, — 

T. cernuum. — Flower white, green, and purple centre, 
nodding, and hidden beneath the leaves ; the least handsome 
species, but very easily grown. 

T. sessile. — A low-growing species, with dark-reddish 
flowers and variegated foliage. 

T. pictum or erythrocarpum. — Flower white, with lake 
centre. Rather difficult to cultivate ; does best in moist 

peat-soil. 

T. grandiflorum. — A noble species, with large white 
flowers, changing to rose-color. 

T. erectum. — Flowers brownish purple, and with a dis- 
agreeable odor. 

There are also other species. 




TOVE bulbs and tubers are those which 
require a greater heat than can be afforded 
by a greenhouse. They are generally 
^k. natives of the swamps of tropical coun- 
tries. During growth, they require heat and moisture, and, 
if deciduous, a rest when the leaves begin to turn yellow at 
a temperature not lower than 60° ; or, if evergreen, to have 
only just water enough to prevent the leaves from flagging. 
In the present volume, we propose only to describe a few 
of those most commonly cultivated. 



THE CALADIUM. 



These bulbs were formerly considered arums ; the earliest 
known being, even now, commonly ' called arum bicolor. 



248 



THE CALADIUM. 249 

Those which are in cultivation are natives of the swamps 
of the River Amazon, in the province of Para, and, among 
foliaged plants, are pre-eminent for graceful growth, and 
elegance and brilliancy of marking. 

The tubers should be planted in peaty loam and sand, in 
medium-sized pots, when they show signs of growth : but 
in this respect they are very accommodating ; for they can 
be started into growth any month in the year ; and, by a 
little care, a house may be gay with caladia at any season. 
Some species continue growing the whole year ; but these 
do better if a rest is given by withholding a portion of the 
supply of water during three months in the year, and keep- 
ing the plants rather cool. As soon as the plants are 
potted, they should be set in a warm place, or, if possible, 
plunged in a bark-bed, near the flue, to give them a little 
bottom-heat, in order to obtain large roots before the tops 
begin to grow. When the leaves once start, the plants 
should be kept in the warm end of the house, and plenty of 
water should be given. Indeed, the foliage grows larger, 
and is more highly colored, if the pots are set in pans of 
water, and every thing done to encourage large growth ; for, 
as the beauty of the plant is the foliage, it should be well 
grown. The flowers are poor, and not ornamental : there- 



250 THE CALADIUM. 

fore, as soon as flower-buds appear, they should be picked 
off. The plants should always be sheltered from the direct 
rays of the sun. 

The foot-stalks of some of these plants are sometimes 
three feet long ; and the leaves nearly a foot long, and 
eight inches wide. When the plants show a disposition to 
dry off, reduce the supply of water, and, if all the leaves 
die, for a time discontinue watering altogether, and let the 
plant dry off; but never keep it during rest in a temperature 
lower than 60° to 65°: the tubers should never become 
quite dry. If the leaves should not all die away, it is best 
to give a little water occasionally, and keep up a weak 
growth for a while ; and, after the season of rest, the plant 
will throw up stronger foliage. If the temperature is too 
low, and the soil wet, the tubers become of a pasty, soapy 
consistency, and perish. All the species are easily propa- 
gated by dividing the roots just as growth begin*. The 
following are fine varieties : — 

C. Surinamense. — Dark-green leaves, spotted with white. 

C. marmoratum. — Dark green, marbled with cloudy 
white ; grows all the year, and a small plant soon makes a 
specimen. 



THE CALADIUM. 251 

G. jpictum. — Leaves large and broad, spotted with pure 
white spots. 

G. hcematostigma. — Leaves dark green, with transparent, 
red-and-white spots, and very slightly tinged with red in 
the centre. 

C. Humholtii. — Leaves covered with patches and spots 
of transparent white. 

G. pellucidum. — Dark green, the ends of the veins 
touched with purple. Transparent white spots, with a 
touch of red in the centre. 

G. argyritis. — Dark-green leaf, marbled and spotted 
with snowy white, so that the ground-color can hardly be 
seen. A dwarf species, producing an abundance of 
foliage. 

G. Chantinii. — Leaves large, the veins and midrib of 
intense red, shading to pink ; the dark-green of the leaf 
blotched with rosy-white spots ; the border of the leaf pale, 
yellowish green. 

C. Neumanii. — Dark-green leaf, with numerous irregu- 
larly scattered spots of clear rose. 

C. Brougniartii. — Leaves rich, velvety green, glaucous 
on the under-side ; leaf-nerves very large, clear red. A 
lovely species. 



252 THE CALADIUM. 

G. argyrospilum. — Shining green, spotted with irregular 
blotches of pure white, with crimson centre. 

G. Verschajfeltii. — Dark green, with rich vermilion 
spots. 

G. Houlletii. — Pale-green leaf, white nerves, marked at 
the centre with faint red spots. 

G. subrohmdum. — Shining green, with, crimson lines and 
veins. 

G. hastatum. — Leaf hastate, of dark green, so marked 
with numerous small white spots as to give it a powdery 
white appearance ; veins slightly touched with red. 

G. picturatum. — Leaf green, the veins beautifully bor- 
dered with vivid rose. 

G. JBarraquinii. — Leaf all red, with a narrow border of 
green. A very fine species. 

G. Moolor. — The oldest species ; leaf green, with red 
veins and centre. 

G. atropurpurea. — A tall species ; leaf-stalks dark purple ; 
leaves dark, blackish green. 

C. Bellemeyii. — Dark green, marbled with dazzling 
white. 

G. poecile. — A pretty species, with neat foliage, but with 
no vivid markings. 



THE CRINUM. 253 

There are many others which might be mentioned, and 
some very rare, new varieties ; but a selection from those 
above enumerated cannot fail to give satisfaction. 

THE CRINUM. 

A large family of amaryllis-like plants, with large foliage 
and showy flowers. All of them delight in rich soil, and 
require plenty of water when growing. The bulbs are gen- 
erally large, and require plenty of pot-room. The species 
cross freely, and many fine hybrids have been introduced. 
Most of the species are stove bulbs ; though some thrive 
under greenhouse culture, requiring the treatment given to 
Cape bulbs. 

G. australe. — Flowers white ; a greenhouse species, re- 
quiring rest for six months in the year. 

C. flaccidum much resembles a white lily. 

C. Capense. — One of the hardiest of the family, which 
may be treated as a Cape bulb : it should have plenty of 
water while growing. 

C. amabile. — A large but very fine species, requiring 
stove culture, and flowering in spring and fall. The flowers 
are dark rose-color, fragrant, and are produced on an im- 
mense spike. The plant is evergreen. 



254 THE CLIVEA. — THE EUCHARIS. 

C. erubescens. — A stove species, with pale-white flowers 
in July. 

There are some dozen varieties. 

All the family are ornamental, and will repay cultivation. 

THE CLIVEA. 

A splendid floweriDg bulb, nearly related to amaryllis, 
from the Cape of Good Hope. It should be potted in rich 
sandy loam ; have a high temperature and plenty of water 
while growing, and less water and a lower temperature 
when at rest. A good plan is to grow it in the stove, 
and rest it in the greenhouse. The plant is evergreen, 
and is difficult to flower. The flowers are red and yel- 
low, very showy ; produced on a spike two feet high 
in July. 

C. nobilis is the only species. 

THE EUCHARIS. 

This splendid plant is of recent introduction. It is a 
thick-leaved, evergreen, bulbous plant, of the amaryllis 
tribe ; a native of Grenada ; requiring stove treatment, but 



THE GRIFFINIA. 255 

very free-flowering. The proper soil is fibry loam and a 
little peat. 

After potting, say in early winter, plunge the pot in 
a slight bottom-heat in the stove, say at 70° to 75°, 
to start it into vigorous growth, giving plenty of water. 
When the growth is perfected, remove the plant to the 
greenhouse, and give it all the sun possible until September. 
Then diminish water to hasten the ripening, and by the end 
of the month remove to a cool stove where the temperature 
is from 50° to 55° ; giving only enough water to keep the 
plant healthy. 

It may be forced into bloom at any season. The flowers 
are pure white, large, and showy, on foot-stalks just above 
the leaves. The plant will grow, and we have bloomed 
it, in the greenhouse ; but it does better in the stove. 

E. Amazonica, or grandiflora, is the species, and is a native 
of South America. It is one of the finest of the amaryllis 
family ; and has the merit, which so few have, of blooming 
with, and the flower seeming to conform to, the foliage. 

THE GRIFFINIA. 

A genus of stove-bulbs, from South America, which 
thrive well with the general treatment of amaryllis. 



256 



THE CYRTANTHUS. 



The soil should be peat and loam, with a little sand and 
leaf-mould. 

In growth, the plants should be kept at a temperature of 
60° to 80°, and have plenty of water ; but, when at rest, the 
heat should never exceed 50°. 

Propagated by offsets and by seeds, which may be treated 
as other seeds of the amaryllis family. 

There are but three species, — 

G. hyacinthina. — Flowers blue and white. 

G. parviflora. — Pale-purple flowers. 

G. intermedia. — Blue flowers. 




THE CYRTANTHUS. 



The plants of this family differ widely from each other, 



THE HMMANTHUS. — THE BEUNSVIGIA. 257 

and are generally of difficult culture. A greenhouse is too 
cold for them, and a stove too close. 

They should be potted in strong, friable loam ; have 
greenhouse culture from April to November, and an airy 
situation in the stove from December to April. The decid- 
uous species should be kept dry in winter. 

C. obliquus and cameus are evergreen ; the remainder are 
deciduous. 

There are eight species, all natives of the Cape. G. obli- 
quus, when it can be flowered, is very showy. 

THE H^EMANTHUS. 

Stove-bulbs, but flowering in the greenhouse ; growing 
freely in sandy loam and peat ; natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope. The bulbs are large, and flower in autumn, just 
before beginning to grow. The flower is very showy, 
but by no means handsome. The leaves are two, very 
large, and grow all winter. When the leaves wither, the 
plant should go to rest, and remain until August ; when it 
may be repotted. 

H. coccineus is the most common species, and there are 
about twenty others. 

THE BRUNSVIGIA. 

A family of Cape bulbs, generally requiring stove heat. 
17 



258 THE EUCOMIS. 

They are allied to amaryllis, aud do well tinder the same 
treatment. The soil may be loam and peat. They need a 
season of perfect rest, which should be given in winter. 
They flower from June to September, according to the 
species. The flowers are large and showy ; but, the bulbs 
of many species being very large, the plants occupy 
more room than can be afforded, except in a large col- 
lection. 

B. grandiflora and Josephince are very fine species. 

There are about a dozen species. 

B. falcata and Goranica are also called Ammocharis, 
and may be grown in a greenhouse, as they are hardier 
than the other species. 

THE EUCOMIS. 

These are large Cape bulbs, which bloom well both in the 
greenhouse and the stove. The flowers are coarse, and not 
very handsome ; of a green color, but fragrant. 

They thrive with common treatment, resting in summer. 

They bloom in early spring. There are five or six species, 
none very desirable. 



XIX. 



ACHIMENES, GLOXINIAS, GESNERA. 




NDEB, the head of Bulbs, we could hardly 
treat of these plants ; but, as we have given 
ourselves more latitude, we may include 
them : and, for the decoration of the green- 
house or conservatory in summer, there 
are no plants so suitable as the subjects 
of the present chapter. For ease of cul- 
ture, beauty of growth, and delicacy of 
bloom, they are unsurpassed ; and they 
also remain a long time in perfection, so that the green- 
house may be gay with them from June to October. 



ACHIMENES. 



This plant, though properly to be grown in a stove, does 
well in the greenhouse in summer. The bulbs are small, 



259 



260 ACHIMENES. 

varying in shape in the different species. Early in Febru- 
ary, the bulbs should be turned out of the old soil, and 
carefully planted, about half an inch deep, in a compost of 
decomposed peat, silver-sand, and leaf-mould. After a 
gentle watering to settle the soil, the pans should be placed 
in gentle bottom-heat, or over the flue in the stove, where 
the temperature will be about 75°. Here they may remain 
until the shoots are an inch high. Another mode is 
to start the plants thickly in large pans, in bottom-heat, 
and, when the plants are an inch high, to transplant them 
to the blooming pans ; the advantage of which is, that no 
bulbs fail to come, and you can so arrange the sizes by 
planting the larger in the middle, and the smaller round 
the side of the pan, as to form a mass of foliage and bloom. 
The plants should then be placed in a house where the 
temperature at night does not fall below 60°, and near the 
glass, that they may grow sturdy. Let the soil be -kept 
damp, but not wet, and syringe occasionally. Should the 
sun cause them to droop, shade a little at noon. When the 
plants are about five inches high, they should be tied to 
neat stakes, which should be as small as possible, and 
painted green. Fill up the pots (which should not, till now, 



ACHIMENES. 261 

be quite full of soil) with a compost of loam, well decom- 
posed cow-dung, and silver-sand. 

In tying the plants, care should be taken to so place the 
stakes, and tie the plants, that the whole pan may be a 
symmetrical mass of green. 

The plants will bloom by the middle of June ; when they 
may be removed to the conservatory, and shaded, that the 
flowers may last longer. As soon as the bloom opens, all 
syringing should be stopped. 

Plants potted a month later will suceeed these in bloom ; 
and, by a succession of pottings, the stage may be filled 
with achimenes until wanted for winter-plants. 

If the air of the house where they are grown is kept 
moist, there will be no danger from red spider or thrips ; 
and a gentle fumigation will destroy green aphis, if they 
attack the plants. 

After blooming, the plants should still be exposed to the 
light, but should have less water ; and, when the leaves turn 
yellow, the stalks may be cut off, and the pans placed in 
a dry place where the temperature is about 45° : if upon a 
damp floor, all the better, as thus the bulbs keep plump. 
It is a bad practice to dry them too much, or to take them 
out of the soil and put them away in paper-bags. 



262 GLOXINIAS. 

Some of the best kinds are, — 

A. coccinea. — An old but good species, with bright- 
scarlet flowers. 

A. longiflora, and varieties major and alba. — Large blue 
or white flowers. 

A. Meteor. — Crimson-scarlet, yellow eye. 

A. Dr. Hoff. — White, rosy, lilac centre. 

A. Baumanni hirsuta. — Violet-purple. 

A. Ignea. — Bright scarlet. 

A. carminata splendens. — Brilliant carmine. 

A. picta. — Yellow and scarlet, spotted leaves. 

A. Margaretta. — White. 

A. Ambroise Verscliaffelt. — White, marked with violet. 

A. rosea elegans. — Bright rose. 

A. Sir Ir'alieme Thomas. — Rosy carmine. 

A. picturata. — Rose, with dark spots. 

A. Parsonsii. — Salmon-crimson, orange centre. 

GLOXINIAS. 

A family of lovely plants, from South America. The 
original species have been lost in the multitude of fine hy- 
brids which have mostly sprung from G. speciosa, maculata. 



GLOXINIAS. 263 

and caulescens. The bulbs are large, and, in general appear- 
ance, resemble a cyclamen. They should be potted, one in a 
pot, in good turfy loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal admix- 
ture of well-rotted, rather dry cow-manure and silver-sand ; 
the whole well mixed, but not very fine. The crown of the 
bulb should be just covered with soil, which should not be 
pressed in too close. 

Pot as soon as the bulb shows signs of growth, but not 
earlier than January. Treat them as recommended for 
achimenes until the pots are filled with roots ; then repot in 
a larger size, and continue the treatment until they flower. 
When in bloom, remove them to the conservatory, and treat 
as achimenes until the time for repotting. 

They may be propagated by seed, by cuttings, by leaves, 
or by dividing the root in spring. 

By cutting a leaf up, and placing it in moist sand, every 
part will make a small bulb ; or the leaf may be planted 
entire, inserting it an inch or so in the sand. This latter 
method makes very strong plants. 

Seeds may be sown at any time ; but the spring is the 
best season. The soil should be light and rich ; and, as the 
seed is small, it can hardly be too lightly covered. Place 
the pans in a frame, keeping the surface of the soil damp, 



264 GLOXINIAS. 

and the plants will appear in about ten days. As soon as 
large enough, they may be pricked off into pans, and, in 
due time, into separate pots. If kept in a moderate heat, 
they will retain their leaves most of the winter ; and, if well 
grown, will bloom the next season. The flowers are either 
erect or drooping. Those marked with a * are erect. 

The following list is of fine kinds : — 

G. alba sanguinea. — White, carmine throat. 

G. alba grandiflora. — Pure white. 

G. Princesse de Lambelle. — Bright red, white throat. 

G. Carlo Maratti. — White and violet-blue ; fine varie- 
gated leaves. 

* G. Donna Golonna. — White, violet rose. 

G. Gartoni. — Carmine and pink. 

G. Dr. Lindley. — White, and pale blue. 

G. Wilsonii. — White and carmine. 

G. Fifyana. — White and purple. 

G. Maria Van Houtte. — White, pink, and lemon. 

G. Tarragona. — Rich crimson and white. 

G. Fulgens. — Rose tube, with crimson. 

G. Princess Royal. — White, mottled-blue throat. 

G. Lady K. Hamilton. — Tube and throat crimson, 
shading to rose. 



GLOXINIAS. 265 

* G. Guido JReni. — White, crimson centre. 
G, Sir Hugo. — Violet-purple. 

The characteristics of a good gloxinia are, the plant 
should be healthy and vigorous, with sufficient foliage to 
cover the top of the pot. The leaves should be broad, 
thick, and velvety ; the lower ones growing in a horizontal 
manner. 

In drooping varieties, the tube of the flower should be 
broad and stout ; the throat should be wide and even ; the 
sepals slightly reflexed, smooth and round at the edges, and 
of sufficient substance to retain their beauty. The color, if 
a self, should be bright and distinct ; if spotted, splashed, 
or striped, the markings should be very decided, and not 
run together. The greater the contrast of colors, the better ; 
the markings to be regular ; the three under-sepals should 
always be marked alike, and of uniform size. 

The plant must be a free-bloomer, the flowers standing 
well up above the leaves ; and as the front, or inside, of the 
flower is the handsomest part, it should be the most con- 
spicuous. 

The erect varieties should have a long, round tube, a 
little swelled at the middle ; the throat to be the same color 



266 



THE GESNERA. 



all round, the sepals the same, and the divisions scarcely 
perceptible. The mouth of the tube should be perfectly- 
round, and the sepals be blunt and smooth, forming another 
circle. 

THE GESNERA. 

A family of beautiful stove-plants, that, by regulating 
their season of rest, may be brought into bloom at any 
season. The treatment is the same as prescribed for achi- 
menes and gloxinias, except that much syringing should be 
avoided. The foliage of many species is beautifully marked, 
and looks like velvet : the flowers are in long spikes, scarlet, 
red, or yellow, and often finely marked. They are propa- 
gated as gloxinias. There are about fifty species, and 
many fine varieties. 

The families of Tydea, Mandirola, Lochiera, and 
Sciadocalyx, are only sections of achimenes, and need 
the same treatment. 





HE previous chapters have treated at length 
on the culture of those bulbs most gene- 
rally grown ; but there are still many 
which are little known, and rarely found 
in cultivation. To treat of these fully 
would occupy too much space ; but our 
work would be manifestly incomplete did we fail to mention 
them. A large proportion of them have never been in cul- 
tivation in this country ; and some are known in England 
only by descriptions of specimens once in cultivation, but 
now lost. Of some we can speak fully, having grown and 

267 



268 PENTL ANDIA. — HOMERIA . 

flowered them ; but of others can only copy the description 
offered us in botanical works or horticultural serials. 

There are some bulbs which we have omitted entirely, 
because, in many cases, their identity is difficult to establish, 
as they are lost to cultivation ; and others are so rare, that 
there is no probability of their ever coming into the posses- 
sion of any reader of this volume. 

PENTLANDIA. 

Greenhouse bulbs, from Peru, allied to amaryllis. The 
flowers are orange-red, pretty, but not remarkably hand- 
some. 

The plants grow freely in sandy loam and leaf-mould, and 
propagate freely by offsets. They bloom during the summer 
or early autumn. The species are P. miniata, lacunosa, and 
Sullivanica ; the first of which was for a long time in our 
possession, and flowered freely every year under the ordi- 
nary greenhouse treatment of an autumn-flowering bulb. 

HOMERIA. 

A family of Cape bulbs, worthy of more attention than it 
receives. They produce an abundance of flowers, which con 
tinue a long time in perfection, and are very brilliant 
Blooming during the summer, they need not be potted 



HEXAGLOTTIS. 269 

until March, and require only ordinary greenhouse treat- 
ment, — to be potted in peat, leaf-mould, and sand, and freely 
watered when growing. They multiply very freely from 
offsets. 

H. lineata. — This is the most common species ; the flow- 
ers are coppery red, with a metallic lustre, and are produced 
in great abundance all summer. 

We have had this species in bloom from June to Septem- 
ber. 

H. spicata. — A beautiful species, with orange-yellow 
flowers. 

H. collina. — Orange-scarlet flowers, very freely produced. 

H. miniata much resembles H. lineata ; but the flowers 
are darker and smaller. 

Other species are H. aurantiaca and ochroleuca, both with 
yellow flowers. 

HEXAGLOTTIS. 

Rather a pretty little yellow-flowering Cape bulb, requir- 
ing a sandy soil, and perfect rest when not in growth. 

The plant flowers in early spring, and should be allowed 
to rest after flowering. 

The species are H.flexuosa and virgata. 

By many botanists, the family is united to Morsea. 



270 TRICHONEMA. — GALAXIA. 

TRICHONEMA. 

A pretty family of bulbs, with ixia-like flowers ; natives 
of the Cape and of the south of Europe. They require the 
same general treatment as ixias. 

The flowers are red, blue, yellow, purple, or rose, and are 
produced in spring. 

There are about twenty species, of which we may 
mention 

T. caulescens, roseum, tortuosum, speciosum, and cruciatum^ 
from the Cape. 

T. bulbocodium, Columnoe, and purpurascens, from the 
south of Europe. 

T. coelestinum ; a native of North America. 

GALAXIA. 

Small bulbs, from the Cape of Good Hope ; generally 
with large, showy, yellow flowers, and requiring the usual 
culture of Cape bulbs. Soil sandy peat and loam. 

The species are G. graminea, grandiflora, mucronularis, 
ovata, and versicolor ; all blooming about midsummer. 



LAPEYROUSIA ; HESPERANTHA J WAGHENDORFIA. 271 
LAPEYROUSIA. 

A family of showy-flowering bulbs from the Cape, called 
also Peyrousia and Ovieda. They much resemble ixias in 
their growth and flowers, and require the same general 
treatment. The plants produce blue, white, violet, or pink 
flowers in spring. 

The species are L. aculeata, silenoides, anceps, corymbosa, 
fissifolia, falcata, fasciculata, Fabricii. 

HESPERANTHA. 

A small-flowering bulb, from the Cape, thriving, in sandy 
loam and peat, under the culture usually given hulbs of this 
nature. The flowers are pretty, but not conspicuous. Like 
most of the Cape bulbs, it propagates freely by offsets. 

The species are H. falcata, cinnamomea, radiata, and 
angusta, with white or violet, very fragrant flowers. 

WACHENDORFIA. 

A family of rather large-growing, free-flowering Cape 
bulbs, requiring a soil of sandy loam and peat, and to be 



272 hypoxis. 

treated like ixias. They bloom in summer, and are very 
showy. W. brevifolia, unlike most Cape bulbs, has ever- 
green leaves, but must, nevertheless, have a season of rest 
when the season's growth is over, induced by withholding 
water, but not sufficient to allow the leaves to wither. We 
have had a very fine show of these flowers in the conservatory 
in summer. The species are W. paniculata, Herberti, grami- 
nea, tenella, and thyrsiflora, with straw or yellow flowers ; and 
brevifolia and hirsuta, with purple-shaded blossoms. 

HYPOXIS. 

Bulbous plants, with thick underground stems ; natives of 
every continent except Europe. Some are hardy ; but most 
of those with ornamental flowers require greenhouse culture 
in loamy peat. 

The flowers of all are starry, mostly yellow ; but a few 
white and blue. 

While not very showy, they are worth growing where 
there is room. 

There are sixteen species, of which H. linearis, stellata, 
elegans, and alba are the best. H. erecta is hardy. 



cooperia; haylockia; androcymbium. 273 

COOPERIA. 

A North-American family of tender bulbs, with showy- 
flowers expanding at night. The flower-stem is erect and 
stiff, each bulb producing but one at a time, crowned with a 
single flower. Soil sandy loam. Propagated by offsets or 
seeds, which should be sown in spring. The species are, — 

C. jpedunculata. — With white and yellow flowers. 

C. chlorosolen. — White and evergreen. 

G. Drummondii. — White and red flowers, natives of 
Texas and Mexico. 

HAYLOCKIA. 

A little bulb, allied to Cooperia, with straw-colored 
flowers, blooming in September, a native of Buenos Ayres, 
thriving in sandy loam and leaf-mould. The leaves grow all 
winter, and the plant rests in the spring. Propagated by 
seeds or offsets. H. pusilla is the only species. 

ANDROCYMBIUM. 

A family of Cape bulbs, with green or white flowers, grow- 
ing in loam and sand, and propagated by seeds and offsets. 
A. eucomoides, melantJioides, volutare, are the species. 

18 



274 BLANDFORDIA ; BRAVOA ; CALOSCORDUM ; MILLA. 

BLANDFORDIA. 

A very interesting family of beautiful bulbs, from Austra- 
lia, requiring to be potted in peat and loam, and to be 
treated like ixias. Propagated by offsets and seeds. The 
species are B. nobilis, jiammea, grandiflora, intermedia, mar- 
ginata, Cunninghamii, and Backhousii, with red, yellow 
crimson, and orange flowers. 

BRAVOA. 

A little Mexican bulb, allied to amaryllis ; flowering in 
summer in ricli light soil. Increased by offsets. 

B. geminiflora, with red flowers, which is the only species 
that has flowered freely with us. 

CALOSCORDUM. 

A pretty bulb, allied to Milla, thriving in common soil. 
The flowers are rose and purple. 

G. nerinefolium, a native of Chusan, is the only species. 

MILLA. 

Small bulbs, with beautiful milk-white flowers, growing 
freely in rich, light soil. 



ELISENA ; ISMENE ; PANCRATIUM. 275 

The principal species, M. biflora, is a native of Mexico, 
and is very ornamental. Propagated by offsets. 

M. uni flora is known as Tritelia uniflora, and is a native 
of Buenos Ayres. 

ELISENA. 

A very showy bulb, allied to Pancratium, with large white 
flowers, resembling an Ismene . Soil very sandy loam ; 
propagated by offsets. 

E. longipetala, from Lima, is the only species. 

ISMENE. 

South-American bulbs, with white and yellow flowers, 
somewhat resembling a daffodil. They flower in summer, 
and may be bloomed in the border. They should be planted 
in pure sand, and treated as directed for sprekelia. If the 
soil is not sandy, they will not flower. The best way to 
obtain bulbs would be to send to Peru, where the mos,t com- 
mon species, I. Amancces, is very abundant, near Lima, 
There are eight species, of which 1. Amancces, calathina, and 
nutans are the best. 

PANCRATIUM. 

Rather an extensive family of greenhouse and stove bulbs, 
growing in sandy loam, and propagated by seeds, or spar- 



276 CARPODETES ; DAUBENYA ; CARPOLYSA. 

ingly by offsets. The flowers are generally white, fragrant, 
and showy. 

The greenhouse species are P. Illyricum, rnaritimum, rota- 
tion, and Garolinianum, of which the first mentioned might 
possibly prove hardy. 

Of stove species, we may mention P. Ganariense, amoenum, 
biflorum, and acutifolium. 

CARPODETES. 

A Peruvian bulb, with yellowish-purple flowers, growing 
in sandy loam, enriched with decomposed leaves or well- 
rotted manure, with good drainage. 

G. recurvata is the species. 

DAUBENYA. 

Yellow-flowering bulbs, from the Cape, thriving in rich 
sandy loam, and blooming in summer under the usual treat- 
ment. D. aurea and fulva are the species. 

CARPOLYSA. 

i 

G. spiralis is a pretty little Cape bulb, with pink, starry 
flowers, requiring the same treatment as an ixia. 



HABRANTHUS; IXIOLIRION J PHYCELLA. 277 

HABRANTHUS. 

A large family of amaryllis-like bulbs, generally natives 
of South America. The flower-stem is thrown up before 
the leaves in early autumn, and the leaves grow all winter. 

They should be grown in sandy loam and peat, with good 
drainage, and have perfect rest after the leaves fade. 

They propagate by offsets or by seed, which should be 
sown in spring, and have a gentle bottom-heat to start it 
into growth. There are about twenty species, and many 
fine hybrid varieties, of which we may mention H. Ander-' 
soni, and the varieties aureus and cupreus, bifidus, Baqnoldi, 
roseus, intermedins, and Jcermisianus. 

IXIOLIRION. 

Rare and pretty bulbs, natives of Syria and Tartary, 
with pale-blue flowers. They thrive in common soil, and 
propagate by seeds or offsets. 

I. montanum and Tartaricum are the species. 

PHYCELLA. 

South- American bulbs, with red or scarlet flowers, in 
summer or early autumn, growing in good loam, with perfect 
drainage. 



278 CHLORETIS ; STRUMARIA ; COBURGIA. 

They should be planted in February, and taken up and 
kept dry, like tulips, when the leaves wither. 

There are about a dozen species, of which the best are 
P. crytanthoideS) ignea, biflora, corusca. 

CHLORETTS. 

A family separated from Crusum by Mr. Herbert. C. 
glauca is a native of Mexico, with large white flowers. 

It grows in sandy soil, and needs a season of perfect rest. 
It flowers in August. 

STRUMARIA. 

This genus requires the same treatment as Nerine, to 
which it is nearly allied. The bulbs are of low habit, with 
red, white, or pink flowers, and are natives of the Cape. 

Some of the species are S. truncata, undulata, geminata, 
and rubella. 

COBURGIA. 

A family of South- American, showy, flowering bulbs, 
growing in sandy loam enriched with leaf-mould. They 



gastronema; chlidanthus; urceolina. 279 

may be grown and flowered in the border, like the Jacobean 
lily (Sprekelia). Propagated by offsets. 

There are nine species, generally with red or orange 
flowers, of which G. incarnata is the most common. 



gastronema. 

A family of two species of small Cape bulbs, with white 
or rosy flowers, growing in loam and leaf-mould, with the 
usual culture of Cape bulbs ; flowering in early summer. 

The species are G. sanguineum and clavatum, both very 
rare. 

CHLIDANTHUS. 

A pretty bulb, with fragrant yellow flowers ; native of 
Buenos Ayres. The bulb grows freely in sandy loam, 
and produces numerous offsets, which should be removed, 
or the main bulb will not flower. Our bulbs flowered in 
July. C. fragrans is the only species. 

URCEOLINA. 

A Peruvian bulb, growing in rich loam, and requiring 
shade ; blooming in summer, and requiring perfect rest in 



280 stenomesson; fourcroya; eucrosia. 

winter. Propagated by offsets. U. pendula, and aurea : 
with yellow, red, and green flowers, are the only species. 



STENOMESSON. 

Pretty bulbs from South America, with orange, scarlet, 
and yellow flowers, requiring complete rest in winter, and 
plenty of moisture in summer, and to be grown in sandy 
loam. They flower in spring before the leaves grow. 
There are eight species, all natives of Peru, of which the 
best are S. flavum, curvidentatum^ croceum, Hartwegii, au- 
rantiacum,) and vitellinum. 

FOURCROYA. 

A family of enormous amaryllis-like plants, the stems 
of F. longceva attaining the height of forty feet. They are 
natives of Mexico, and are seldom found in collections. 
The species are F. longceva and F. gigantea. 

EUCROSIA. 

A pretty bulb, native of the Peruvian Andes, growing in 
rich, sandy loam. The flowers are bright vermilion ; but 



CALOSTEMMA ; EURYCLES ; GLORIOSA. 281 

the plants, though often grown in the greenhouse, thrive 
better in a stove. They bloom in spring, and should rest 
in winter. 

JE. bicolor is the only species. 

CALOSTEMMA. 

New-Holland bulbs, of which there are five species, with 
yellow, purple, or white flowers. They grow in sandy 
loam, blooming in early summer, and " need abundance of 
water to make them flower." 

The species are G. purpureum, album, luteum, carneum, 
and Cunninghamii. 

EURYCLES. 

Stove-bulbs, requiring sandy loam and leaf-mould, and 
rest in winter. 

The flowers are white, and produced in May. The species 
are E. Amboinensis and Australasica. 

GLORIOSA. 

A family of bulbs, with climbing stems, allied to the 
lily. They should be grown in a stove, in a compost of 
peaty loam and leaf-mould, potted in March, trained to a 



282 HYDROT^NIA J HYMENOCALLIS. 

trellis as they grow ; and they will bloom in summer. The 
flowers are yellow or orange, and very showy. Propagated 
by separating the bulbs. Well-known species are G. Nepa- 
lensis, superba, and virescens. They are also known as 
Clinosttlis. 

hydrot^enia. 

A half-hardy bulb, " with the aspect of a Tigridia, and 
flowers like a Frittelaria." Grow in light, rich, sandy loam, 
and treat like a Tigridia ; taking it up in autumn, when the 
leaves are killed. 

The species are H. lobata, from South America, with yel- 
low and purple flowers ; and H. meleagris, with yellow flow- 
ers ; a native of Mexico. 

HYMENOCALLIS. 

A family of some thirty species of greenhouse and stove 
bulbs, with large amaryllis-like flowers. 

They grow in rich, sandy loam, and are propagated by 
offsets ; blooming in summer. 

H. adnata and rotata may be grown in the greenhouse. 

The flowers of all are white, and resemble those of a 
Pancratium. 



GETHYLLIS; LIDEBOURIA ; VELTHEIMIA. 283 

GETHTLLIS. 

As Fourcroya is the largest of the amaryllis, so is Gethyl- 
lis the smallest. 

The species are little bulbs from the Cape, and grow 
readily in sandy loam and peat. The flowers of all are 
white, blooming in July ; and the plants are about six 
inches high. Propagated by offsets and seeds. G. Afra, 
spiralis, and ciliatris are the species most known. 

LIDEBOURIA. 

A rare bulb from the East Indies, allied to Bessera. 
Soil sandy loam ; flowers greenish-white. The only species 
is L. hyacinthina. 

VELTHEIMIA. 

A family of large Cape bulbs, not very handsome, but effec- 
tive, and remaining long in blossom. Should be grown in 
the greenhouse, in sandy loam. The plants rest all summer, 
but bloom in December and January. 

V. viridiflora is the most common species : with us it 
has ripened seeds freely. The plants rarely make offsets. 

V. glauca and intermedia are the other species. 



284 CYANELLA J RHINOPETALUM ; LIBERTIA ) ETC. 

CYANELLA. 

Small Cape bulbs, with white, blue, yellow, and red 
flowers, which do well treated like ixias. Some of the 
species are G. alba, lutea, odoratissima, and Gapensis. They 
generally bloom in July and August. 

RHINOPETALUM. 

A small bulb, with pink-spotted flowers ; native of the 
Ural, flowering in January. Soil sandy peat and loam. 
B. Karelini is the only species. 

LIBERTIA. 

Pretty little bulbs, with white flowers, allied to Vietjs- 
seuxia, blooming in early spring ; generally natives of 
Australia. Soil sandy loam, with a little leaf-mould. The 
species are L. formosa, grandiflora, pulchella, and paniculata. 

PHiEDRANASSA. 

South-American bulbs, allied to Coburgia, and requiring 
the same treatment. They may be made to rest either in 
winter or summer. The species are P. chloracea and obtusa^ 



BRODLEA ; MASSONIA ; PUSCHKINIA ; CALIPRORA. 285 

both from Peru, of which the former has produced its crim- 
son flowers in our collection. 

BRODLEA. 

Showy bulbs, with blue flowers in summer ; natives of 
the western coast of North America. Grown in sandy 
peat, they bloom in summer. 

B. congesta has bloomed finely with us. The other species 
are B. grandiflora and Galifornica. 

MASSONIA. 

Small Cape bulbs, of little importance, with white flowers, 
flourishing in sandy loam and peat. M. Candida, grandiflora, 
and violacea are among the species. 

PUSCHKINIA. 

A solitary species, with bluish-white flowers, resembling 
a Scilla ; native of Siberia, and hardy on sandy loam. P. 
scilloides is the species. 

CALIPRORA. 

A little California bulb, with yellow flowers in August, 
growing in peat. In England it proves hardy, but would 
probably require protection with us. G. lutea is the only 
species. 



286 camassia; melanthium ; montbeettia ; etc. 

CAMASSIA. 

A native of the north-western part of America, where it 
is very common. We have flowered the bulbs in the green- 
house ; but they would probably prove hardy planted in 
spring, and taken up in the autumn. The flowers are pur- 
ple, produced in July. Soil, sandy peat, and a shady situ- 
ation. C. esculenta is the species.* _ r 

MELANTHIUM. 

Mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They do well 
planted in peat and sandy loam, and treated as ixias ; gen- 
erally flowering in spring. M. junceum and uniflorum are 
the best known species. 

MONTBRETTIA. 

A small Cape bulb, with yellow flowers, resembling an. 
ixia, and requiring the same treatment. The species are 

M. flexuosa and virgata. 

BESSERA. 

Mexican bulbs, with beautiful flowers, blooming in Sep- 
tember, and requiring a sandy peat soil. Propagated by 
offsets. The species are B. elegans, flowers scarlet ; B. 
Herberti, flowers purple and white ; B.fistulosa, purple. 

* See also Scilla. 



nectaroscordum; calochortus ; cyclobothra. 287 

NECTAROSCORDUM. 

A curious bulb, native of Sicily, with long pendulous pur- 
ple, green, and white flowers. It grows in common light 
soil, and blooms in June. N. Siculum is the only species, 
and is rare in collections. 

calochortus. 

Very beautiful California bulbs, blooming in summer. 
Most of the finest species are lost to cultivation, as they are 
very difficult to grow. It would be difficult to convey an 
idea of the beauty of the flower. Soil sandy peat. 

G. elegans, luteus, nitidus, venustus, splendens, and ma- 
crocarpus are the species. The flowers are white, purple, 
or yellow. 

CYCLOBOTHRA. 

a 

The flowers of these plants are drooping, and very orna- 
mental. They are, like the last genus, very difficult to cul- 
tivate. They bloom in August. Perhaps they might 
succeed better as bedding-bulbs than in the house. 

The species are G. alba, white flowers, pulchella and 
vnonophylla, yellow flowers, from California ; and G. lobata 



288 PLANTTA ; LEUCOCORYNE ; BELLEVALIA. 

and lutea, also with yellow flowers, and purpurea, with green- 
and-purple flowers, from Mexico. They may be propagated 
by little bulbs, which are produced on the stem. 

PLANTIA. 

A little Cape*' bulb, with yellow flowers, growing in rich, 
sandy loam, and propagated by offsets or by seeds, which 
should be started in spring with bottom-heat. 

P. flava is the only species. 

LEUCOCORYNE. 

Very fragrant little South- American bulbs, growing in 
sandy loam, and blooming in autumn. 

The species are L. alliacea and odorata with white, and 
ixioides with lilac flowers. 

BELLEVALIA. 

Commonly known as the Roman squill, as it much re- 
sembles a S cilia. The plants require the treatment of the 
tender Scillas, and bloom in May. B. operculata, or Homana, 



albuca; gagea; barnardia; etc. 289 

has white flowers ; and B. Syriaca has orange-and-blue 
flowers. 

ALBUCA. 

A large family of bulbs, with whitish or greenish-yellow 
flowers of very little beauty ; mostly natives of the Cape. 
There are some twenty species, which may be grown 
like ixias ; mostly flowering in spring. 

GAGEA. 

A family of about twenty species of small bulbs, with yel- 
low flowers. Natives of Europe. All hardy in England, 
and many of them might stand the winters here. They 
are not handsome enough for greenhouse culture. 

BARNARDIA. 

A pretty bulb from China, with pala-blue flowers, requir- 
ing the same treatment as a tender Scilla. The species is 
B. scilloides. 

HESPERASCORDIUM. 

Pretty plants from California, allied to allium; growing 
in sandy loam. They bloom in July, and are propagated 

19 



290 drimea; eriospermum; spatalanthus ; etc. 

by offsets or seeds. The species are H. hyacinthinum with 
blue, and H. ladeum with white flowers. 

DRIMEA. 

Not very showy Cape bulbs, requiring the same treat- 
ment as ixias ; generally flowering in August. D. villosa, 
altissima, and elata are the best of a dozen species. 

ERIOSPERMUM. 

A genus of Cape bulbs, comprising eight species ; flower- 
ing before the leaves. The flowers are not ornamental, 
being generally greenish-white or blue. They grow in 
sandy peat, and propagate by offsets. 

SPATALANTHUS. 

A rare and delicate Cape bulb, allied to Trichonema. The 
flowers are red, with a star of yellow and black in the centre. 
It should be grown in turfy loam, sand, and peat. The 
species is S. speciosus ; but it is a very rare plant even in its 
native country. 

CONANTHERA. 

A very rare bulb from Chili, of difficult culture. The 
plants grow in winter, and rest in summer, flowering in 



cummingia; uropetalon; streptanthera. 291 

April. The soil should be sandy, and the pots be well 
drained. G. bifolia and Simsii are the two species, both 
with blue flowers. 

cummingia. 
Another South-American genus, not very easy to grow. 
Soil sandy loam. Propagated by offsets. The family was 
formerly classed with Conanthera. The species are G. 
campanulata, tenella, and trimaculata ; the two former bear- 
ing blue flowers in autumn, the latter in December. 

UROPETALON. 

A genus of plants, with flowers of little beauty, growing 
in light loam, and propagated by offsets. These plants are 
only desirable in large collections. U. serotinum is a native 
of Spain. U. longifolium is from Mozambique. U. glau- 
cum, fulvum, and viride are from the Cape of Good Hope. 

STREPTANTHERA. 

A genus of Cape bulbs, with showy flowers, now united 
to gladiolus. S. cuprea and elegans were the only species. 

TRITELIA. 

A very pretty family of American bulbs, with blue or 
white flowers, growing in sandy loam, and blooming in July. 



292 • 



TRITELTA. 



They are very showy plants if well grown, and do well with 
greenhouse culture. 

The species are, — 

T. laxa, flowers blue, in large umbels. 

T. vmflora, flowers sky-blue. This latter species is a very 
pretty plant when several bulbs are grown in a pot. It has 
flowered thus with us very prettily. 




INDEX. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

achimenes 259 

" The Culture of 261 

" List of Species 262 

Acis, The 101 

Aconite, Winter 233 

Albuca, The 289 

Allium, The 174 

" Species of 175 

Alocasia, The 238 

Amaryllis, The. 200 

" Culture of 201 

" Temperature for 205 

" Second Flowering of 205 

" SEEDLINCx 206 

" Belladonna 21, 208 

" Lutea 234 

Ammochaeis, The 258 

Androcymbium, The 273 

Anemone, The 137 

" Preparation of Bed.... — 137 

" Propagation 138 

" Properties of a Good 138 

" Varieties. — 139 

Anisanthus '.' 199 

Anomatheca, The 197 

Antholyza, The 198 

Aphis 56 

295 



296 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Apios, The . 228 

Aris-ema, The 238 

Arrangement of Colors 30 

Arum, The 238 

Asclepias, The 228 

Atamasco Lily. 214 

Babiana, The 150 

" Treatment 150 

" Species 151 

Baby's Breath 236 

Barnardia, The 289 

Belladonna Lily ...21, 208 

Bellevalia, The 288 

Bessera, The 286 

Blandfordia, The 274 

Bloodroot, The 245 

Bravoa, The 274 

Brodlea, The 285 

Brunsvigia, The 257 

Bulb-Bed, Autumn Covering 32 

" Preparation of 37 

" Situation of 31, 36 

Bulb-Cases 42 

Bulbocodium, The • 231 

Bulbs, what are they ? 17 

" Kinds of 17 

" Mode of Flowering 21 

" Drying off 22 

" New Formation of 23 

14 Propagation 24 

" Tender Potting 33, 38 

" Potting 38, 43 

" Treatment after Potting 43 

" Time of Potting for Winter 44, 45 

" in Wardian Cases 46 



INDEX. 297 

PAGE 

Bulbs in Water 46 

" in Moss , 49 

" in Vegetables 49 

" in Sand 50 

Caladium, The , 248 

" Culture of 249 

" Species of 250 

Caliprora, The 285 

Calla Lily, The 245 

Calocasia, The . . . 240 

Caloscordum, The 274 

Calostemma, The 281 

Camassia, The 286 

Canna, The 243 

Cape Bulbs, General Treatment 142-155 

Carpodetes, The 276 

Carpolysa, The. , 276 

Chlidanthus, The 279 

Chloretis, The . 278 

Clinostylis, The , 282 

Clivea, The , , 254 

Coburgia, The . 278 

Colchicum, The 21 , 232 

" Yellow .. 234 

colochortus 287 

Colors, Arrangement of. . 30 

Commelina, The 227 

Compost for Bulbs 35 

Conanthera, The 290 

Cooperia, The 273 

Coral Tree, The (Erythrina) 211 

Corbularia, The 91 

Covering of Bulb-Bed 32 

Crinum, The 253 

Crocus, The 20, 31, 102 



298 INDEX. 



PAGE 

Crocus, Species and Varieties 102, 107 

" Culture 103 

" Planting Beds 104 

" Kemoval after Blooming 105 

" House-Culture 106 

" Forcing 106 

" Seedling 107 

Crocus-Pots 50 

Crown Imperial 31, 170, 172 

Cummingia 291 

Cyanella, The 284 

Cyclamen, The 218 

K potting 219 

" Propagation of 220 

" Species and Varieties 221 

Cyclobothra, The 287 

Cypella, The 129 

Cyrtanthus, The 257 

Dahlia, The 224 

" Properties of a Good 225 

Daubenya, The 276 

Depth of Planting 31 

Dicentra. The 244 

DlELYTRA, The 244 

Diseases 51 

Dogtooth Violet, The 230 

Dragon-Plant 239 

Drime A, The 290 

Drying off Bulbs ... 22 

Dutch Bulbs. ....*. 27 

Elisena, The 275 

Eranthes, The ..... . .-. ,.-.... 233 

Eriospermum, The. 290 

Erythrina, The.. . 241 



INDEX. 299 

PAGE 

Erythronium, The 230 

Eucharis, The 254 

Eucomis, The 258 

Eucrosia, The 280 

Eurycles, The 281 

Feathered Hyacinth 236 

Ferraria, The 173 

" Species 174 

Frittelaria, The. 20, 22, 30, 170 

" Culture 171 

" Species op 171 

Fourcroya, The 280 

Gagea, The 289 

Galaxia, The 270 

Gastronema, The 279 

Geissorhiza, The 157 

" Species 158 

Gesnera, The 266 

Gethyllis, The 283 

Gladiolus, Diseases of 59 

" Manuring 41 

The 179 

4 ' History of 180-185 

" Pot-Culture 181 

" Tender Species 181 

" Culture of Hardy 184 

" General Treatment 186 

" Soil for 188 

" Seedling 189 

" Preservation of Varieties 190 

" Propagation by Bulblets 191 

" Diseases and Enemies 192 

" Multiplication of Varieties 192 

" Varieties of Hardy 193 



300 INDEX. 



PAGE 

Gloriosa, The , 281 

Gloxinia , The 262 

" Culture of 263 

" List of Varieties 264 

" Properties of a Good 265 

Grape Hyacinth .. — 236 

Green Dragon 239 

Green-Fly , 56 

Griffinia, The 255 

Ground-Nut, The.... , 228 

Guernsey Lily 212 

Guinea-Hen Flower 173 

Habranthus, The 277 

h^emanthus, the . 257 

Hardy Bulbs, Planting 28 

Harebell, British 90 

Haylockia, The 273 

Herbertia, The 129 

Hesperantha, The 271 

Hesperascordium, The 289 

Hexaglottis, The 269 

Hippeastrum, The 200 

" Culture of 201 

" Species of 206 

" Hybrids of 208 

Holland Bulbs 27 

Homeria, The 268 

Hyacinth 20, 29, 40 

Diseases of 60 

History of, The. 61 

Soil for 65 

Selection of Bulbs 65 

Planting in Beds 07 

a « -water.... 69 

" " Moss 70 



INDEX. 301 

PAGE 

Hyacinth, planting in Sand 70 

" " " Pots 71 

" Forcing 73 

" Rules for Growing 71 

" Treatment after Blooming •. 76 

" Miniature 76 

" Propagation 76 

" Species 78 

" List of Varieties 79 

" Properties of Good 84 

" Grape or Musk 236 

" Feathered 236 

Hydrot.enia, The 282 

Hymenocallis, The 282 

Hypoxis, The 272 

Indian Shot 243 

Indian Turnip 240 

Insects 51 

Iris, The 31, 120 

" General Treatment 120 

" List of Tuberous 121 

" Propagation 123 

" Early-Blooming Species 124 

" Bulbous 124 

" Spanish 124 

" English 125 

" Persian 20, 125 

" SUSIANA 21 , 126 

" Properties of Fine 126 

" Peacock 130 

Ismene, The 275 

Ixia, The 147 

" Treatment 148 

" Species 148 

Ixiolirion, The 277 



302 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Jack in the Pulpit 240 

Jacobean Lily 21, 49, 204 

Jonquil, The 92, 95 

Lachenalia, The 236 

Lape yrousia, The 271 

Leucocoryne, The 288 

Leucojum, The ICO 

" Planting 100 

" Species 100 

Libertia, The 284 

Lidebouria, The 283 

LlLIUM Candidum 21, 162 

Lily, Atamasco 214 

White 21, 162 

The 21, 31, 159 

The Propagation op 159 

The Culture of 160 

The Transplanting 160 

Forcing 161 

Properties of , 161 

Species of 162 

Annunciation 162 

Guernsey 212 

Lochiera, The 266 

Lycoris, The 210 

Mandirola, The 266 

Manure, Liquid 40, 48 

Manures for Bulbs 33-39, 48 

Massonia, The 285 

Mealy Bug 57 

Melanthium, The 286 

Merendera 231 

Mildew 58 

Milla, The 274 



INDEX. 303 

PAGE 

montbrettia, the 286 

Morea, The 128 

' ' Species 129 

Muscari, The 235 

Musk Hyacinth , 236 

Myogalum, The 90 

Names of Varieties, preserving 30 

Narcissus, The 29 91 

" Planting 91 

" House-Culture 92 

" Species 92 

" Polyanthus 21, 96 

" " Varieties 95 

" Double Eoman 45, 97 

Nectaroscordum, The 287 

Nerine, The 211 

" Species of 212 

Operanthus, The 234 

Ornithogalum, The 21 176 

" Species of 177 

O vieda, The 271 

Oxalis, The 143 

" Potting 142 

" Species 145 

Pancratium, The 275 

Peacock Iris 130 

Pentlandia, The 268 

Persian Iris 20 125 

Petilium, The I70_i 72 

Peyrousia, The 271 

Ph.edranassa, The 284 

Phalocallis, The 130 195 

Phycella, The 277 



304 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Plaid Ixia 158 

Plantia, The 288 

Planting, Hardy Bulbs 28 

" Proper Depth 31 

" Rules for 29 

polianthes tuberosa 18 

Potting Bulbs 38, 43 

" Tender Bulbs 33, 38 

Premature Flowering 51 

Puschkinia, The 285 

Pyrolirion, The 210 

Ranunculus, The 132 

11 Soil for 133 

' ' Treatment ■ 134 

" Seedlings 135 

" Properties of a Good. 135 

" Forcing 136 

" Varieties 136 

Red Spider , 54 

Rest, Season of 20, 21 

Rhinopetalum, The ? 284 

Richardia, The 245 

Rigidella, The i 199 

Rot ; 58 

Salvia, The 228 

Sand for Bulbs 38 

Sanguinaria, The 245 

Scale 58 

sciadocalyx, the 266 

Scilla, The 86 

" Planting 86 

" Species . 87 

Season of Rest .' 20, 21 

Situation of Bulb-Bed 31, 36 



INDEX. 305 

PAGE 

Snowdrop, The 20, 98 

" Planting 99 

" Forcing 106 

" Species 100 

Snowflake, The 100 

Soil, Preparation of 35 

Sparaxis, The 152 

" Species , '. 152 

Spatalanthus, The. 290 

sprekelia 21, 49, 200, 204, 209 

Star of Bethlehem 21, 176 

Stenomesson, The i 280 

Sternbergia, The 237 

Streptanthera 291 

Strumaria, The 278 

Synnotia, The 196 

Syringing 34, 55 

Tardy Flowering 53 

Tiger Flower >? 194 

Tigridia, The 194 

" Species of 194 

Tile-Root ... 158 

Trichonema, The 270 

Trillium, The 246 

Tritelia, The 275, 291 

Tritonia, The 154 

" Treatment 154 

" Species of 156 

Trop^eolum, The 233 

Tuberose 18, 40 

" The Culture of 215 

" Selection and Potting 216 

Tulip, The 20, 109 

" Preparation of Beds 110 

" Classes of ill 

20 



306 INDEX. 

PAGE 

Tulip, as a Florist's Flower 112 

" Lists of Fine 114, 116 

" Forcing ' 116 

" Double 118 

" Species of 119 

Tydea, The 266 

Urceolina, The 279 

Urginea, The 90 

Uropetalon 291 

Vallota, The..: 200, 209 

Veltheimia, The 283 

Vieusseuxia, The 130 

Wachendorfia, The 271 

Watsonia, The 195 

" Species of 196 

West- Wind Flower 213 

Winter Aconite 233 

Zephyranthes, The 213 



Ornamental China and Glass. 



The subscriber has constantly on hand a carefully selected stock 
of 

CHINA AJSm GLASS WABE. 



He is prepared to decorate China, to order, guaranteeing per- 
fect satisfaction, and can, without delay, furnish complete sets 
with Initials, Crests, &c. ; or will decorate a single piece, if 
desired, to match up sets on hand. 

He pays particular attention to 

FINE GLASS WARE, 

having special facilities for getting up any article required. 

Crests, Monograms, Initials, &c, engraved in the most 
elegant manner. 

Such of his goods as are of foreign manufacture are imported by 
himself, and he offers all at the lowest possible prices. 

Always on hand an elegant variety of 

Flower Glasses, Stands, &e., 

RICHARD BRIGGS. 

137 Washington St., corner School St., BOSTON. 



DUTCH BULBOUS FLOWER-ROOTS, 

Sent by Mail, Post-paid, at Catalogue Prices* 



IB. IKI. BLISS, 

SEEDSMAN AND FLORIST, 

SPRINGFIELD, MASS. 



' Just received from Holland a large and well-selected assortment 
of the above, from the same source as those heretofore sold by him, 
and giving such perfect satisfaction. 

The assortment embraces the finest varieties of Double and 
Single Hyacinths, Polyanthus Narcissus, Double and 
Single Early and Late Tulips, Double and Single 
Narcissus, Jonquils, Crocus, Crown Imperials, Iris, 
Snowdrops, Scill^e, Hardy Gladiolus, Ranunculus, 
Anemones, Japan and many other Lilies. 

ALSO A FINE ASSORTMENT OF 

GREENHOUSE BULBS, 

Comprising Cyclamens, Ixias, Oxalis, Sparaxis, Tritomas, 
Achimenes, Gloxinias, &c, &c. 

His new ILLUSTRATED AUTUMN CATALOGUE, con- 
taining fine engravings of the celebrated Lilium Auratum, 
Hyacinth, Ranunculus, Anemone, Tulip, Crocus, Cyclamen, Japan 
Lily, &c, with accurate descriptions, and explicit directions for the 
culture of each variety, will be mailed to all applicants enclosing 
Ten Cents. 

Collections containing a fine assortment of all the leading varie- 
ties of the above will be mailed, post-paid, as follows : Collection 
No. 1, $20.00; No. 2, $10.00; No. 3, $5.00; No. 4, $3.00. For 
the contents of each collection and further particulars, see Cata- 
logue. 



The following varieties of his selection will be mailed, post-paid, 
to any address in the Union upon receipt of price affixed : — 

Per doz. 

Hyacinths, Double or single, fine named varieties $3 50 

Hyacinths, Double or single, fine unnamed varieties 2 00 

Hyacinths, Parisian, Double and single mixed l 50 

Tulips 9 Early double, fine named varieties 1 50 

Tulips, Early double, fine mixed 75 

Tulips, Early single, fine named varieties 1 50 

Tulips, Early single, fine mixed 75 

Tulips, Parrot, Fine mixed 1 oo 

Tulips, Bybloemen, Bizarres and rose, fine named 3 00 

Tulips, Bybloemen, Fine mixed l oo 

Tulips, Various sorts mixed 75 

Crocus, Mixed, blue, white, yellow, and striped 25 

Crocus, Finest named varieties , 50 

Polyanthus Narcissus, Finest named varieties 2 50 

Polyanthus Narcissus, Fine mixed l 50 

Jonquils, Double 1 50 

Jonquils, Single, sweet scented 75 

Iris, English, Fine mixed varieties 1 00 

Iris, Spanish, Fine mixed varieties 75 

Ranunculus, Fine mixed varieties 50 

Anemones, Fine mixed varieties 50 

Gladiolus, Hardy, fine mixed varieties 1 00 

Snowdrops, Double 75 

Snowdrops, Single 40 

HyacintJlUS, Fine mixed varieties 75 

Crown Imperial, Fine mixed varieties 5 00 

JLilium Auratlim, A new superb variety from Japan, each. 5 00 

Japan Lily, Red and White, each 50 cts., per doz 5 00 

White Lily (Lilium candidum) , . . . 1 50 

White Lily, Double, each 40 cents, per doz 4 00 

White Lily, Striped, " 40 " " 4 00 

Lily of the Valley 2 00 

Pwonies, Twenty varieties 4 00 

No orders will be filled at these prices for less than the number 
specified. 



J. E. TILTON & CO. S PUBLICATIONS. 




THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE. 

BY W. C. STRONG. 

" This book, in all that relates to its mechanical execution, is simple 
elegant; and of the matter and manner of the author we can also speak in 
very high terms. He is evidently a practical vigneron, and, for the guid- 
ance of the inexperienced, has aimed to give plain, simple, concise rules, 
not novel, but practical and approved. His opening chapter is historical. 
The second treats of the vine in a botanical point of view. The third and 
fourth contain all that one need know to enable him to increase his stock 
of vines, either by cuttings in the open air, or in hotbeds, or by layering 
and grafting. The next four chapters are upon soil, situation, planting, 
and training. There is a new mode of training, mentioned as in course of 
experiment, and therefore not given as a decided success, to which we call 
particular attention. 

" In the chapter upon manures, which gives a long catalogue of such as 
are suitable, the reader will find one fact, of greater importance than any 
other, about fertilization, stated in these words : ' The mechanical con- 
dition of the soil is quite as important a consideration as its fertility.' 
Potash (in wood-ashes), lime, and bone-dust take the lead of all fertiliz- 
ers, in the opinion of Mr. Strong. Coal-ashes are also recommended for 
the sulphate of lime they contain, and also for their mechanical effects 
upon a soil somewhat stiff. Ashes, lime, bone, he prefers composted with 
peat, or similar earth; and, if stable-manure is applied, let it be put on in 
autumn. 

" The closing chapter is one of the most valuable, if not altogether the 
most so, in the book; and it is all the more valuable because it contains 
matter which will offend a good many readers, who find their pet varie- 
ties in the rejected list, or see it boldly and authoritatively stated that 
one sort is only some other well-known sort figuring under a new name." 
— New -York Tribune. 



J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



" This is an elegantly printed volume of 350 pages, embellished with 
illustrations designed to aid those using it in the better execution of the 
work of vine planting, trellising, and culture. It is a work we can confi- 
dently recommend to all our readers in pursuit of knowledge in relation 
to the culture of the Grape, as it regards propagation, layering and graft- 
ing, soil and situation, planting, modes of training, distances and trellises, 
management and pruning, methods of hastening maturity, manures, dis- 
eases, insects, miscellaneous items, culture under glass, — comprising also 
a description of varieties, both hardy and exotic, with lists of each for 
amateurs. A new book, with such contents, by a highly intelligent, practi- 
cal, and successful vine-grower, one who is experimenting with all the 
new varieties, and growing the best old ones, cannot but be just what 
every amateur and beginner needs, and should have." — Cultivator. 

" It is real pleasure to read this book. The information with which it 
abounds is conveyed in a clear and easy style, analyzed so carefully as to 
make the volume a vine-grower's manual, and yet so agreeably imparted, 
that an ordinary reader would peruse the book with interest. With every- 
thing that pertains to the history and culture of the Grape, the book is 
furnished ; the illustrations are abundant and intelligible ; and the excel- 
lence of the typography, paper, and engraving, makes it quite a contrast 
to ordinary agricultural works." — New -York Observer. 

Price in muslin, extra . . $3.00 Half calf, or half morocco . $5.00 
Full turkey $6.00 




J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 




THE BOOK OF ROSES. 



BY FRANCIS PAKKMAN. 



" This work is founded on an experience of many years in the culture of 
the Rose, and the various processes recommended in it have been practised 
and tested by the writer. Some of them have been suggested by his ob- 
servation of the requirements of roses in the climate of the Northern 
States. As a general rule, writers on the Rose have copied from each other 
without sufficiently considering that it requires widely different treatment 
in different countries. Previous books on the subject have been very de- 
fective in the arrangement of their matter, especially in treating of the 
different families and classes of roses, leaving the mind of the reader in 
confusion as to their origin and relationship. The Book of Roses attempts 
to remedy this defect, and to present a clear view of the various subdivis- 
ions of the race, with the characteristics of each, and the results of their 
combinations or intermarriages. The Rose is constantly in process of de- 
velopment ; and any book, written even a few years ago, may now be very 
far behind the time. The latest new roses down to the present time, and 
the latest methods of cultivating them, are given in this book." 

The Post says, "Mr. Parkman's style is vivacious, easy, and pleasant; 
his suggestions clear, practicable, and intelligible; so that all who will may 
do as he has done. It is equally adapted to the parlor table and as a gar- 
den companion. It is a substantial addition to our horticultural literature, 
and a masterpiece of bibliographical art. The type is clear and beautiful, 
the paper thick and tinted, and the illustrations executed with care and 
appropriateness." 

" Amateurs will find in this volume all the information necessary in 
regard to the culture, propagation, and character of the Rose, with ample 



J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



description of varieties and their respective habits, to enable them to 
make suitable selections for all situations. At the end of the volume, 
twenty-three pages are filled with a catalogue of the names of roses, in 
addition to those named in the body of the work, and a complete list of 
new roses. The style of the volume is worthy the subject upon which it 
treats : it would not put a beautiful bouquet of roses to blush if placed 
side by side upon the same table. We earnestly commend the book to all 
the lovers of the Queen of Flowers." — New -York Tribune. 

" One who is unacquainted with rose-culture would be both pleased and 
surprised upon reading this book. A branch of knowledge so extensive, 
relating only to a single shrub, would surprise, and the remarkably enter- 
taining manner in which this knowledge is conveyed would please, the 
reader. The book is occupied with rose-culture, and description of roses. 
The various methods of propagation and cultivation are explained and 
illustrated, and a full catalogue of the most approved varieties of roses is 
furnished. The book is a model of the art of printing and binding, and 
will be equally adapted to the parlor table or the greenhouse shelf." — 
New -York Observer. 

Beautifully illustrated, and elegantly bound in muslin extra. 

Price .... $3.00 Same in half calf, or half morocco . $5.00 
Full turkey $6.00 




J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



^£*§SS 




Garden Flowers, and How to Cultivate Them, 

BY EDWARD S. RAND, JR., 

AUTHOR OF " FLOWERS FOR THE PARLOR AND GARDEN." 



" J. E. Tilton & Co. have added two more books to the very valuable 
books on Gardening already published by them. One of these is ' Garden 
Flowers, and How to Cultivate Them.' The author is Mr. E . S . Rand, jun. ; 
and the book is a treatise on the culture of hardy, ornamental trees, shrubs, 
annuals, herbaceous and bedding plants. The book is elegantly printed 
and bound, and has many delicate illustrations. It is in the form of an 
alphabetical index, which gives the name of the plant, its varieties, a de- 
scription of each, and such information as may further the design of the 
author in imparting accurate knowledge of a subject interesting to every 
one who has a garden or a lawn, or who cultivates flowers, shrubbery, or 
trees. The book supplies a want long felt, and which other treatises have 
only partially met. It explains the conditions under which plants live 
and thrive ; and, in short, gives to every reader the abundant knowledge 
possessed by the writer. Mr. Rand is already known to the public by his 
work on ' Parlor Gardening.' A third volume from his pen, describing 
' Greenhouse Plants,' is now in press. The three volumes are essential 
both to the florist and amateur." — Com. Adv. 

" This is a work, which, much as it was needed, has never before been 
placed before the public. It is a full, comprehensive book of garden flow- 
ers, for the use of all who cultivate them, conveying the very sort of knowl- 
edge that amateurs will seek, — the preparation of soil, the application of 



J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



manures, the sowing of seed, the formation of hotbeds, and an immense 
list to select from, of hardy perennial, biennial, annual, and bedding 
plants. All the plants mentioned are alphabetically named, with their dif- 
ferent varieties, height, length, and other peculiarities, and founded on the 
best authorities. This bids fair to become a popular and standard horticul- 
tural publication." — Chicago Journal. 

" This elegant book is a credit to American agricultural literature. It is 
a work of 384 pages, beautifully printed on tinted paper, and illustrated by 
many appropriate engravings. 

"It was undertaken, as the author says, to supply the want, which has 
long been felt, of a trustworthy hand-book of garden flowers ; one which 
should comprise a short treatise on the culture of hardy perennials, bien- 
nials, and annuals, as well as the more showy family of bedding plants. 
The volume, therefore, contains concise directions for the culture of every 
plant usually met with in the garden, including trees, shrubs, and climbers. 

" This, it must be seen, is an extremely interesting field of practical in- 
vestigation ; and the author is entitled to the thanks and the patronage of 
the community for the complete and able manner in which he has entered 
upon and presented it. We can cheerfully commend the work to florists 
and gardeners, and to all others interested in the subject." — Mass. 
Ploughman. 



Price, cloth $3.00 Half calf, or half morocco 

Turkey morocco $0.00 



$5.00 




J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 




Garden Vegetables, and How to Cultivate Them, 

BY FEARING BURR, 

AUTHOR OF "FIELD AND GARDEN VEGETABLES OF AMERICA." 

11 Garden Vegetables, and How to Cultivate Them, by Fearing Burr, jun., 
has just been issued by the enterprising firm of J. E. Tilton & Co., Boston, 
corresponding in elegance of style with the ' Culture of the Grape,' by 
W. C. Strong, lately noticed, as published by the same house. Mr. Burr, 
in a model preface, most of which we quote, tersely says, ' The object of 
this volume is to give full descriptions of vegetables common to the gar- 
dens of this country, with the most approved methods of cultivation, pres- 
ervation, and use ' Every farmer and suburbanist who would have a 
good vegetable garden cannot fail, with Burr's practically illustrated 
manual in hand, with the exercise of an ordinary degree of attention, 
skill, and industry. It may be truly styled the American gardener's vade 
mecum, filled with useful and sententious specifications by a practical gar- 
dener, and therefore just what the man with spade, hoe, and seeds in hand, 
needs at this time. We will only add, that so felicitously has the author 
done his work, and so elegantly have the publishers done theirs, one 
hardly knows which more to admire, the skill of the former, or the taste 
of the latter. Get it and read it, and you will say, ' The half was not told 
me.'" — Boston Cultivator. 

" This is a fine, illustrated volume, just published by J. E. Tilton & Co., in 
the same unexceptional style which has made Parkman's ' Book of Roses,' 
and Rand's ' Manual for the Rearing of Flowers,' so popular. This firm 
are really furnishing a library which no one given to gardening as a voca- 
tion or recreation can afford to be without. Their various publications 
have been prepared by those practically acquainted with the useful and 
attractive subjects of which they discourse." — Transcript. 



J. E. TILTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 

" This volume is to the gardener what a manual of botany is to the bota- 
nist. It professes no more than to be ' a manual, or guide, to assist in the 
identification and selection of varieties rather than a treatise on cultiva- 
tion.' It contains short descriptions of over a thousand varieties of use- 
ful vegetables, with some notice of the proper soil and cultivation of the 
more important. The descriptions are in plain language, terse, and as sat- 
isfactory as the case will admit of. The preparation of such a work pre- 
sents peculiar difficulties. Varieties are often separated by very slight 
differences, or are inconstant in their characters, or depend on local con- 
ditions, or are determined by such characters as can only be learned by 
actual observation, and cannot be well described in language; so that any 
attempt at description must be unsatisfactory. In this work, the attempt 
has been unusually successful ; and many of the more important varieties 
are illustrated by engravings from characteristic drawings by Sprague, 
who is, perhaps, the most successful as well as most eminent botanical 
draughtsman in this country. The plants are classified according to their 
uses; and, while the botanical names are given, they are subordinate to the 
common English ones. The book is beautifully printed, is furnished with 
a good index, and is a valuable addition to our horticultural literature.'' — 
The Nation. 



Price 



62.50 




J. E. TILTOX & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



y~-l£j. 




FLO WEBS 

FOR THE PARLOR AND GARDEN. 

BY EDWARD SPRAGUE RAND, Jr. 

A splendid illustrated volume on the culture of Greenhouse, Conserva- 
tory, Stove, Parlor, and Garden Flowers, Ferns, Bulbs, etc. Instructions 
and plans on the building, stocking, and keeping Conservatories, Green- 
houses, etc. ; Waltonian Cases, Ferneries, etc.; Soil for the Flower Gar- 
den; list of best Plants and Seeds; how to propagate; time of planting 
and flowering. In short, every information needed by the amateur or the 
most experienced gardner. It is a volume long needed ; and the author's 
high reputation in these matters ^.-ill insure a work that will supply every 
want. 



J. E. TTLTON & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



"The book itself is a flower, — a gem of typographical beauty. Cer- 
tainly no handsomer guide-book for the cultivation of flowers has ever been 
published in this country. It is as fresh and pleasant to look upon as are 
the arbutus blossoms which are now putting forth their white and pink 
bells in token of spring. Mr. Edward Rand, jun., could not have put his 
name upon a more memorable page than upon the title leaf of his exquisite 
book upon the culture of flowers. No space is occupied with useless poeti- 
cal quotations and rhapsodies; but every thing is plain, practical, and valu- 
ble. It is just what it professes to be, — a guide-book for the garden. Every 
lady can own it, and feel assured that she is, for one, favoring nothing of 
politics, war, or sensation-literature. She has that which can make every 
one happier, and the world brighter. Of course, those ladies who are too 
exquisite to cultivate flowers will not care for its instructions ; but every 
true woman who would make home pleasanter, more genial and cheerful, 
and herself more refined in the highest sense of the world, will welcome 
any help in the culture of her flowers." — The Round Table. 

Extra muslin S3 00 

Half-calf 5.00 

Half-morocco, gilt top . . . 5.00 

Turkey antique 6.00 




s 
o? 



J. E. TILTOX & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS. 



THE PARLOR GARDENER. 




A Treatise on the House Culture of Ornamental Plants. Translated 
from the French, and adapted to American use. By CORNELIA J. KAN- 
dolph, of Virginia. With eleven illustrative cuts. 

A bijou of a book. Every lady who cultivates floAvers will want a copy. 
It will teach them how to bring a bit of nature into all their homes, and give 
them in their parlors some of the pleasures of out-door life. It contains 
minute directions for " the mantle-piece garden," the " etagere garden," 
" the flower-stand garden," " the portable green-house," " the house aqua- 
rium," the garden upon the balcony, the terrace, and the double window, 
besides describing many curious and interesting experiments in grafting. 
The book is neatly printed, beautifully illustrated, and is just the size for a 
pocket companion. 

Price $1.00 



% 



Af 



'b 



